Photo by Caroline Bennett

At first sight of the hipster crowd silhouetted against the mysterious red glow that pours onto the street from the Club Atlético Fernández Fierro, you know that this isn’t your typical touristy tango show.

Step inside to find lights darting disco-like across renovated warehouse walls to the full-bodied sounds of a traditional tango infused with rock and jazz, piping from the souls of musicians who radiate an undeniable sense of “cool.”

photo by Caroline Bennett

With a sea of tango venues in a city that has long been breathing the traditional sounds of tango and mixing them up in every way conceivable, it can be tough to keep things fresh.

Enter the Orquesta Tipica de Fernandez Fierro, a 12-person orchestra of dreadlocked and wispy-haired spunky hipsters who drive conventional tango to a new level.

Set in a transformed warehouse in the legendary Gardel neighborhood in Abasto, the Orquesta Tipica has truly carved a unique place in a very cool space, and has recently accrued an almost cult-like following of diverse fans who come to weekly Wednesday night milongas and regular Saturday night affairs held in the group’s practice space.

The band is composed like a traditional tango orchestra, with two violins, a double bass, piano, four accordion-like bandoneóns, and all the mystique that could be imagined of a dark cavernous milonga of the 1940s.

Twisting it up a bit, the orchestra never ceases to surprise with its soulful renditions of classic melodies spun into dramatic song, played with such passion and vigor that the act is as much fun to watch as it is to listen to.

The group’s lead singer bellows thunderous tones as he sashays across the stage, often festooned with an Argentinean flag, human sized champagne bottle, and other wild props that celebrate the nation’s culture or mock the world’s ironies.

A live house cat adds to the excitement, bouncing about the stage as if part of the show, then disappearing into the crowd.

photo by Caroline Bennett

Though the dance is not the main act here, professional and novice tangoers alike whirl through flashing lights in the back of the room.

Free classes at 9pm precede Wednesday night events, encouraging more of an inclusive milonga feel than the cookie cutter tango show that has become a spectator sport. In the corner, a no frills bar serves up cheap beer and fresh empanadas well after the show ends.

Shows Wednesdays and most Saturdays, email in advance to reserve a table or prepare to pack in with a (always large) loyal crowd.

Sanchez de Bustamente 764, entre Lavalle y Guardia Vieja, Abasto

www.fernandezfierro.com

Open: From 9pm Wednesdays (Milonga at 11pm); 10:30pm most Saturdays (Milonga at midnight); Admission AR$15, no credit cards.

Community Connection!

Thirsty for more tango info in Buenos Aires?

Check out this article about the best of the Buenos Aires dance scene. Quite a few Matador members have also enjoyed Tango in Buenos Aires, both as students and spectators.

Tim Paterson thoroughly enjoyed his time at Fernandez Fierro and Kelly Rice has written some great blogs about her experience with this timeless art of Argentina. If you’re headed that way, be sure to ask at least one of our Buenos Aires experts for tips before you go. Their names are Ryan and Lucia.

Spain, land of eternal fiesta and much needed siesta. Eating dinner at 10 and sleeping two hours midday has long been Spanish custom. Every month of the year boasts a festival, or feria, in Spain. Keeping up with these year-round festivities can be exhausting, but it sure is a lot of fun. Here’s a guide to the 5 best.

1. Carnival

In February, Carnival takes over every part of Spain. Carnival is the blow-out party before Lent and Easter. The Canary Islands and Mediterranean are prime places to experience it. Expect a week of parades, costumes, drinking and dancing.

When: Festivities begin in February, 45 days before Easter.

Where: Sitges in Catalonia (a gay tradition) or Gran Canaria in the Canary Islands or Cadiz

What you need: A costume and perseverance: this party lasts all night long.

2. Las Fallas

photo courtesy of viajar24h

People start to get a springtime buzz when March rolls in, and celebration is ceaseless. Las Fallas is a fire festival in Valencia. If you are a pyromaniac, you should be at Las Fallas, no exceptions.

Of course, it’s also interesting for the average person who wants to take his life into his own hands and wander burning streets and amidst whizzing firecrackers. Watch the head!

The good people of Valencia spend the better part of a year building wonderful sculptures made of wood and paper mache, which are giant in size and remarkable in beauty, only to burn them to the ground between the 15th-20th of March. It’s like the Rose Parade bu the floats are staues–some up to 70 feet tall–and everything is torched at the end of the week.

Some say this is the best feria in Spain and is not one to miss.

When: March 15th-20th

Where: Valencia city center

What you need: A lighter to participate in the festivities and a camera to capture the amazing images of el arte en fuego

3. Semana Santa

Right after Las Fallas is Semana Santa, which may be Spain’s most famous feria after San Fermin (The Running of the Bulls) in Pamplona. Semana Santa or Easter Holy Week is celebrated everywhere, but most spectacularly in the south of Spain.

A week-long celebration, Semana Santa involves daily processions depicting the death and resurrection of Christ. This is a religious festival which is a dazzling visual spectacle for believers and non-believers alike.

During Semana Santa, intricate alfombras, or carpets made of flowers, are crafted by locals only to be trampled by thousands of feet during the day’s next procession. Especially in Sevilla, you’ll have a lot more fun if you have a couple Spanish friends whose families get cabanas (where much of the party, music, drinking and dancing unfolds), otherwise you’re just wandering the streets.

photo courtesy of Gaspar

When: March

Where: Andalucia (Granada or Seville)

What you need: A camera and Spanish friends with a cabana.

4. Calçots

So many parties in March will surely make a visitor weary and hungry. Lucky for you, during the entire month of March Catalonia celebrates its Calçots festivals, or Onion-fest.

Calçots are young green onions which the Catalans grill on a barbecue and then dip in a red Romanesco sauce. These slippery but tasty onions are eaten whole, and the experience is both delicious and messy. Calçots can be sampled (usually with a full course lunch) any time in March and early April.

When: March

Where: rural Catalonia

What you need: A bib and an appetite.

5. Sant Joan’s Day

Summer equinox, June 24th, marks Sant Joan’s Day. A pagan holiday, Saint Joan has long been a favorite along the Mediterranean. Today it’s best to visit Barcelona or Menorca for this all-nighter.

In Barcelona the young and old (but mostly the young) head for the beach. This is the only night of the year where it is permitted to sleep on Barcelona’s public beaches. Fires are lit and people sing, dance and drink into the wee hours of the morning.

The city puts on a grandiose fireworks display and citizens create their own pyrotechnic shows in dangerous proximity to passers by. It is a wild party.

In Menorca, the party is a bit more subdued and the focus is more on the horses than fire and beer. Menorca is famous for breeding beautiful horses, and during Sant Joan, Menorcan horses and riders participate in parades and games with villagers gathered from all around the island to watch and cheer them on.

When: The 24th of June

Where: Barcelona or Menorca (Balearic Islands)

What you need: Barcelona: a lighter, a bottle and a guitar. Menorca: A hotel in Ciutadella and a love for cultural traditions.

6. San Fermín (Bonus)

Perhaps the most famous of all ferias in Spain, San Fermín is a week-long party that is both raucous and relentless. You have never seen people party this hard, for this long.

Tens of thousands descend on the sleepy mountain town of Pamplona for this single week and the experience is not for the light-hearted. Prices soar and it’s very difficult to find an affordable place to crash even if you plan ahead, far in advance.

The party is all consuming, with loud music blasting out of every hole-in-the-wall bar, on every street. People drink like there’s no tomorrow and when the sun begins to rise, the cops literally have to kick people off the streets to set up the fences that keep the furious, confused bulls on their course to certain death.

Many sleep in the park but due to the elevation, that can be cold and wet and opportunists lurk. You might be better off wandering the streets until dawn–but don’t drink too heavily if you plan on running. The danger is real and other runners are just as dangerous as the bulls themselves.

Seasoned runners will all tell you the same thing: “look out for number one.” All the danger and party scum aside, 24 hours in Pamplona during San Fermín is something you will never forget.

When: July 7th to July 14th

Where: Pamplona (best reached via train from Madrid)

What you need: A camera, a place to crash, and some tightly-laced Nike running shoes

Community Connection!

Matador is bursting with cool people who are currently living in Spain and/or experts on the nightlife there! If you’re looking for more info on Spanish ferias–or just general advice about partying in the world capital of nightlife, just reach out to the community.

In Madrid, you can count on Abha or Brian–or scan this underground guide to bars and clubs of Madrid. If you’re headed to Barcelona ask Doug, Khobi, or Georgia, what’s going on that weekend. Down south in Andalucia you can reach out to our Seville experts, Jon and Emily.

Photo by Kelly Rice

Tango: Sultry And Elegant

It is 4am and the dimly lit dance floor is packed with couples in close embrace, chests and cheeks connected, legs moving in unison to a 50-year old tango by Pugliese.

They dance together as if they had known each other for decades, but no one in this crowd was even alive yet when this song came out and most of the couples are dancing together for the first time.

The dancers dress as if going to a disco: jeans, sneakers and the occasional dress or skirt with leggings. But as the violin and bandoneon on the recorded orquestra belt out their notes, the women take long steps, revealing their shiny tango shoes— high-heeled and in varying shades of red, gold, green and blue— spinning into backwards “ochos” while caressing the floor as if it were the third partner; this is no disco, it is the real thing: tango dancing at La Viruta on a Friday night.

In the South American city that never sleeps, now is the best time to come and experience tango.

The Golden Age Of Tango

While the history of tango has been theorized and debated for years, the common belief is that it was born from a melting pot of different dances in the late 1800s, during the biggest immigration boom in Argentina’s history. It was a dance that started in the streets, evolved in the brothels, and eventually found its way to Europe, where it received a social stamp of approval, opening the eyes of the world to this dance that at one time was “forbidden” by the authorities.

Through its history tango has endured depression, dictatorships, and rock and roll and continues to flourish today, practiced internationally by people of all ages.

Now, more than ever, people from around the world are traveling to Argentina to practice tango in its birthplace. Some come for one or two weeks and others stay for years just to perfect the dance, sometimes with aspirations to become a professional dancer, but often just to improve their skills while meeting other tango dancers from around the world.

Many serious “Milongueros” adopt a nocturnal lifestyle and attend multiple venues, making the most of the night (and better part of the morning) hopping from one dance to another until 5 or 6am.

Tango Shows For You To See

Walking around Buenos Aires, you will literally stumble upon tango street performers dancing for pennies from Florida street to San Telmo to La Boca. But if the only tango you see is in the street, you will be missing out. Here are the best spots in Buenos Aires to see Argentina’s top dancers perform at tango stage shows.

Photo by Kelly Rice

Café Tortoni

You can go anywhere in town to see spectacular dancers strut their stuff on the stage - but most places will charge you a pretty penny (US $60-150). Instead of shelling out the big bucks, I highly recommend going to a tango show at Café Tortoni (US $10-20). Turning 150 years old this year, Café Tortoni is known to most people as a historical joint to visit and admire while drinking a cup of café cortado. What many people don’t know is that it offers nightly tango shows in the basement floor and in the back of the café.

Call ahead and make a reservation and try to see a show in the upstairs venue since it is smaller and more intimate:
tel: 4342-4328

Señor Tango

If you have money to spend, dish it out and go to Senor Tango, a Las Vegas-style tango show that includes a three-course dinner and an orchestra that will blow your mind (not to mention some of Buenos Aires’ best dancers and singers) for approx. US $75)

tel: 4303-0231

Milongas: An Alternative To Stage Shows

If you want to see locals and international dancers dancing socially (no rehearsed dancing, all created in the moment), you absolutely MUST experience an authentic Buenos Aires milonga. While many of the tango dancers that you will see at the Milongas have years of experience, many places provide classes and practice sessions at the beginning of the night, giving more novice dancers a chance to test their skills on the dancefloor.

Here are a week’s worth of milonga suggestions (although by no means an exhaustive list—all milongas are updated weekly here.

Kelly Rice’s Favorite Milongas In Buenos Aires

Monday: Confiteria Ideal—A traditional see-and-be-seen milonga. Great people-watching.
Tuesdays: Practica X—A very young, experimental milonga.
Wednesdays: Villa Malcom—An extremely international crowd, dancers come to hone their skills.
Thursdays: Niño Bien—A large well-known milonga with traditional-style tango dancers
Fridays: La Viruta— Experienced and novices alike come here to make history on the dance floor
Saturdays: La Glorietta—A free outdoor milonga where dancers shed their inhibitions (rain or
shine)
Sundays: Plaza Dorrego—After an afternoon visit to the San Telmo flea market, make your way to Plaza Dorrego to watch El Indio’s performance, then stay for the outdoor milonga

While there are classes before most milongas start, it helps to have a bit of the basics. And there is no excuse not to take a couple of tango classes in the mecca of tango—Buenos Aires, where a lesson costs next to nothing and the teachers are nothing short of amazing.

Tango Classes

The following are a couple of my favorite dance studios. They cater their classes towards students of multiple levels, from first timers to advanced couples looking for choreography. Most of the teachers speak a little English, although knowing Spanish is a definite plus.

Tango Brujo
(Esmeralda 754, phone: 4325-8264)
Young teachers with experimental styles break barriers and introduce students to “tango nuevo”

DNI Tango
Another tango nuevo style school that even offers Yoga classes specifically designed for tango dancers

All group classes range from $15-$20 pesos. Private classes are to be arranged with each individual teacher but can be pricey ($75-150 Argentine Pesos)

Lambada Zouk: The Coolest Dance You’ve Never Heard Of

In order to wrap your mind around Zouk, you just have to see it. Imagine one part dirty dancing, one part salsa and one part waltz. Intimate, rhythmic and elegant, it is a beautiful seductive dance that involves partners dancing, attached at the hip, and separating to twirl, all the while maintaining a one-two-three beat to various music from the Caribbean, Brazil, and even the Middle East.

Lambada Zouk is a version of the lambada developed in the late eighties. Originating in Brazil, it (like tango) caught fire in Europe and is fast becoming recognized worldwide. One of the best places to dance lambada zouk is Buenos Aires.

Although Zouk isn’t as famous as tango, right now in Buenos Aires there are places to see and practice this unique dance form four nights a week.

Maluco Beleza

Take a class at Maluco Beleza, one of BA’s most well-known bars that boasts a huge dance space downstairs and a second floor upstairs. Wednesday nights there is a dinner show with a variety of Brazilian dances. Fridays at 10:30pm and Sundays at 9:30pm for 15 pesos ($5 US) you can take a beginner zouk class, practice your moves as the bar begins to fill up, and then stay to watch as seasoned zouk dancers light up the dancefloor, twisting their bodies—the men hold the women like precious objects and the girls spin in tune to the music and their partners, while sensually flipping their long hair off their faces.
Sarmiento 1728

Balaio

Offering a wide variety of Brazilian dance classes including different kind of Samba, Axé, and capoeira, Balaio also gives zouk classes for all levels. Take their beginners class on Fridays at 8pm with Gabriela and she will patiently guide you through basics of lambada zouk.
Mansilla 2787 top floor
tel: +54 (11) 4963-6066

Zouk group classes are 15-20 pesos. Private classes are 50.

For info on teachers, places to dance zouk and classes, refer to this website: www.zoukba.com

Editor’s Note: Kelly Rice has written some freaking awesome blogs about her experiences studying Tango and Zouk in Buenos Aires. Here are some of my favorites:

Check out Kelly’s other writing and get in touch with her and thousands of other passionate travelers by visiting her Matador profile.

Photo above by ~chicchun~.

Let’s face it. You know you desperately want to get laid.

You’ve heard about the beautiful Argentine chicas or the handsome Argentine men.

You simply cannot wait to be near them – as near as humanly possible – but this can be a difficult thing to accomplish if you are not familiar with the Porteño mentality.

There are things you must know before you go hunting. In short, you need to understand how the male and female Porteño brains work.

Points to Remember

Porteños love foreigners. They find them irresistible. You tourists look different, you talk different, and you’ll only be here for a short period of time. In other words, you’ll leave before you have the chance to threaten the lifestyle of your undoubtedly immature Porteño.

Photo above by Oegg.

Likewise, most tourists find almost anyone interesting. It doesn’t matter that the Porteño is a complete moron; there are 90% chances that the visitor will find him/her cute.

You’ll stare at the porteño with dreamy eyes when they try to speak your language with an awful accent and you’ll laugh because they made a joke that you didn’t catch but their laugh is soooo adorable.

This is good, because if you want to hook up with a local from Buenos Aires, you better show him or her that you are interested in the nonsense that he/she is spitting on you.

Hey, Big Spender!

Even if you’re still paying for college, you’re totally broke, and you’ve just stolen money from your grandmother to pay for your ticket to Argentina, people in BA will still tend to think you, like every traveler, are fabulously rich.

Obviously people won’t go to bed with you just because they think you have money, but take advantage of this perception.

Pay for a few drinks (after all they cost half or less of what they cost in your country) pay for the cab ride - big tip included.

Give some coins to the beggars in the street. This is an extra thing that’ll make you look not only rich but thoughtful and kind, and besides, who doesn’t like to sleep with a giver?

Demonstrate your generosity and you’ll be halfway to bed already.

Only For Girls

Photo above by icanteachyouhowtodoit.

Argentine guys think girls who’ll have a one night stand with them are sluts. Period. But what do you care? You’ll only be here for a week.

I have to warn you though: since the guy you’re going home with thinks you’re a slut, there’s an 80% chance he won’t even try to please you in bed (to say the least). Especially if he’s drunk.

Make sure that he turns you on and that you are really horny before leaving with him, because otherwise you stand to be really disappointed.

If you don’t want this to happen, go on a couple of dates with him before going to bed. In other words, give him the illusion you’re an old-fashioned girl with morals and then leave after you’ve gotten what you wanted.

By the way, some working girls told me that Argentine guys have bigger chorizos than most foreign visitors. They didn’t mentioned the flavor though.

Photo above by masochismtango.

Only For Boys

OK, here are some really simple rules for you: don’t stare at boobs and don’t turn your head to check out other girls’ butts while talking to the girl you like.

If you follow these two easy rules, you will distinguish yourself from the entire male population of Buenos Aires.

Your girl will think you’re the most educated guy on earth and most likely jump right into bed with you.

Another tip; if she is touching you a lot or if she is being really seductive, kiss her. Sometimes foreigners are too polite. This is not something we are used to here. Usually, we have to call security to keep a guy from kissing us.

Last but not least; foreigners have a good reputation when it comes to oral sex. So please, don’t screw that up.

By following these simple rules you should be getting laid in no time (I hope). Suerte!

Community Connection!

No, we’re not going to tell you who’s easy in Buenos Aires. But there are dozens of locals and BA ex-pats in the Matador network. If you want up-to-date, local advice, get in touch with Zento, Christian, Anthony or Durban.

The truth is, when you accidentally find yourself in a three roomed club talking music with Kevin Spacey or accepting Xanax from Josh Hartnett, it’s easy to believe you’re in the right place at the right time.

And yet the lion’s share of places I’m going to share with you are sadly lackluster of late, a steady decline in hoi polloi-ness, still trying their biblical best to stay guarded, secretive, with doormen who ask you ‘what party are you here for?’ or say ’sorry, private party,’ when actually they have an embargo on a certain kind of person, the un-cool.

Which is most of you. And, before whoring myself, me.

Below I will include names to drop that will give you an, until now, unachieved authority at these doors. But keep your high hopes and dreams for the daytime, for no club on the streets of The Lair is going to get you where you ought to be.

1. Beatrice Inn

Still considered the one and only. A folded away nightmare and fire hazard past prime that feels like a synonym for falling to the wayside. But who am I to talk? This place can be outrageous. Ignore the doorman and say: ‘Lizzy invited us.’ Bring drugs.

WHERE: W12 Street between 8th Avenue and W4. Best from 1am. Weeknights.

2. Sway

A Chinese DJ who also designs purses plays the majority Morrissey themed part of the night. Under the DJ booth find ‘The Throne’ where all half-hearted stars and their wade pools hang.

Stick around all night because the weirdest and most wonderful music is played in the last hour when the second DJ plays stuff that sounds amazing if you’re on something. ‘What party are you here for?’ ‘Morrissey’ is your reply. Or better yet, ‘Ben and Chloe invited me.’ Similar to visiting Tangiers.

Sundays only. Spring Street and Greenwich. Under the neon sign that says McBar.

3. Annex

Ink black tiles outside do not foreshadow smart design but this place can never be hit or miss: you simply must be in the mood for rave and asymmetrical hairdos commingling with dry ice smoke and whiskey served in plastic cups. If you’re a guy, compliment the black retro-pop doorman and get in for free.

WHERE: Fridays only. 152 Orchard Street.

4. The Web

A demure face if ever there was one, the gray sculpted door and its little latch window insinuate all kinds of holes, and this place is a rather unexpected hole under the Four Seasons hotel.

Gay Asians dance upon pink and yellow light cubes for their varying admirers. How nice that each night of the week is themed, from Miss Asia Supreme night to gang bang night. Be prepared to leave feeling licked all over.

WHERE: Under the diminutive yellow awning, next to the 58th street entrance of the Four Seasons, closer to Park Ave.

5. Hotel del Mano

This is not a hotel. It’s a long room somewhere in Brooklyn going as something fancy in the skeleton of a bought out tattoo parlor.

The doorman is chit chatty Kathy and the host not so much. They’ll go out of their way here to make you happy, even plug in your iPhone if it needs charging.

Come here for cocktails that take sixteen minutes to make because the bartenders are artful but also because they are egomaniacally displaying their knowledge of the mixed drink. Have someone else pay.

WHERE: Corner of north 9th street and Berry Street, Williamsburg.

6. The Box

We’re in a phase in NYC nightlife where bottle service isn’t the draw card, but exclusivity. Forget getting in because you’re going to spend $8,000 on bottles, now you have to be too beautiful and too successful and too artistic to get in.

But The Box is different. Here you have to be all those things and spend $8,000 to get in.

Unless your friends know Richard or you’re sleeping with the doorman or are in the freak show (think dwarf Britney Spears, mechanical-break-dancing-China men and drag queens molesting themselves) that occurs on stage twice nightly.

One of the most showy, exquisite night clubs in town, like Rococo on caffeine.

WHERE: 189 Chrystie Street. Good Luck.

7. Nancy Whiskeys

A small dingy Irish pub situated above an NYPD precinct, this place is full of intoxicated off duty cops playing shuffle board, old men drinking away their hangover from 1956, and a smattering of NYU kids thrilled to be drinking at all.

When the music is right and the liquor is flowing, seeing all the crowds interacting peacefully may leave hope for a peaceful world. Go on Wednesdays, when the drunkest, richest and most entertaining bartender in town, Frankie, is serving up the best drinks you didn’t order.

WHERE: Lispenard and 6th Avenue.

8. Town House

No hats allowed. And they’re not lying; this place is in a townhouse.

A morosely, blandly decorated one that does little to emulate or compliment the revered NYC over-40 gay men who lounge about here like satin in a coffin, drinking what else? Martinis and doing what more? Gaily flitting about the grand piano (hideously set on cream carpet) and singing KD Lang and the show tunes she should’ve written.

A good place to lament disappointing careers, lost loves and celebrate youth, with another Martini. And don’t be a pussy with the olives. Up the stairs on the Upper East Side.

WHERE: 206 east 58th street.

9. Ye Waverly Inn

This place hasn’t officially opened. And never will. Being in a constant state of ‘reviews’ means you never really have to answer to anybody, let alone the phone.

If you want a reservation come in person no more than 48 hours in advance. This is actually a restaurant but it’s enough of a scene to warrant going as a club, where you can eat supper in the back, glass-roofed garden with trees growing through the roof.

Like eating in Never Never Land with sexy waiters who are dedicated to knowing everything about every ingredient. The nice thing here is that you can practice hierarchical warfare with the staff because you’re paying $85 for macaroni and cheese.

New American Cuisine is what they’re going as. I’m going as broke. You go without a reservation and wait for 30 minutes at the bar, otherwise go after 11pm and don’t wait.

WHERE: 16 Bank Street.

10. The lobby of The Bowery Hotel

NYC nightlife begins to get incestuous here, the same geeks who have their hands on Ye Waverly Inn are involved in this mess and they all hang out at Beatrice Inn too.

In fact, the Waverly people have their meetings here so make nice with them at Waverly and get a coveted seat here, in this peaceful lobby, which is open only to hotel guests and special people. This lobby really is a Turkish delight. And Bulgarian and Medieval and Saxon and Gilded New York delight all in one too. Without coming off jarring at all.

If the cow at the potted palm gives you any trouble mention that Sam (from Waverly) said you should stop by, and if that doesn’t get through, ask if she’s seen Paul. As in Sevigny. $12 Whiskeys come with divine pistachios, and Klonopin if you ask gently.

WHERE: 335 Bowery between e 4th and Great Jones. Take the latest edition New York Times on your way out.

Community Connection!

Looking for cool people to party with in NYC? Check out Julie, Lucas, Jordan, or Nick.

If you’re nursing a hangover after a long night of partying you might want to relax in these Green Escapes and get away from the hectic sounds of the city–but don’t get too hungover or you’ll miss the Top 10 NYC experiences! Happy travels!

You’ve heard a lot about Palermo in Buenos Aires but you’re not sure where to begin? Matador gives you a sleek list of options for all tastes, in a city that doesn’t really seem to sleep but only takes siestas.

1. Niceto

Most good weekly parties happen at Niceto – they pretty much have the monopoly on hipster nightlife in BA. From Compass to Zizek, Niceto is a solid choice at least four nights out of the week. You often hope to try other spots but find yourself back at Niceto because it’s where the cool party is that night. Visiting bands like Battles and Eek-A-Mouse and a consistent local scene make it the destination. Just don’t forget to put yourself on the list and avoid the line.

Why Niceto? It’s not only in the top 10, it’s #1 in Palermo. It’s the difference between Buenos Aires and every European discotheque whose soundtrack has made you want to vomit – i.e. you won’t hear “What is Love” on the dancefloor.

2. Miloca

Centrally located with a great garden and terrace, Miloca is the house you feel entitled to own in Buenos Aires. High ceilings, hip furniture and lighting, and a backyard bar scream “I’m so cool I live in Buenos Aires.” Even for just a few days. They have a great happy hour but beware of the top shelf liquor. What is your standard at home may be pricier in Buenos Aires; stay off the Patron and opt for a local favorite, like Pisco!

Why is Miloca in the top 10? Miloca is a favorite with locals and travelers alike and manages to straddle posh and chill with a lounge-y interior and laid back garden. It’s a good compromise for diverse tastes.

3. Unico
Set in the heart of Palermo Hollywood, Unico is the bar you can fall back on. It’s usually more crowded in front than inside and it always has a “hey baby” kind of vibe, but in a good way. You’ve heard the people in BA are friendly? At Unico the meet market is friendly but not overly intrusive. If you care to mingle, you can; if you care to stick with your click, that works too.

Why opt for Unico? Unico is a bar that’s almost always crowded and when you can’t decide where to go and you’d like to be out, or when you want a teaser before the late night scene, Unico is a standard.

4. Sullivan’s

Sullivan’s is the Irish pub in the heart of Soho with live music upstairs and a summer terrace. It’s everything you want in a pub – Guinness on draft, bartender banter and attitude, and a dim, cozy atmosphere. Plus it’s in Palermo Soho, full of gorgeous people who have no concept of stress or hostility and have never met the phrase “bad drunk.” As they say (in English) on a popular radio show here in Buenos Aires, “You’re a winner!”

Why Sullivans? Because sometimes you need to go to a pub where you’re not the foreigner freak, where you understand the menu, and where everybody knows your name – or at least they aren’t surprised that it’s Frank, and not Francisco.

5. Ocho7Ocho

Secret bars, hidden restaurants, and clandestine parties spell exciting and different. Here in BA they’re called “los puertos cerrados,” closed doors, and make for added culinary and cocktail adventures. Thames 878 is home to a lounge that feels entirely exclusive and appeals from the moment you enter the expansive, festive space. It’s not so fancy that you’re outclassed but it has an element of mystery that it makes you feel like you’re special for having found it out. Good appetizers and fresh fruit mixology satiates, but beware the sugar onslaught. “Sin azucar” (without sugar) could be the one Spanish phrase you master instantly, when you forget to use it and end up with a slurpee instead of a “daikiri.”

Why pick Ocho7Ocho over any bar in the traffic circle on Honduras? You didn’t come all the way to Argentina to slum it with the eighteen-year-olds, in from the city outskirts via public transit.

7. Mundo Bizarro

Neon signs, vinyl booths, tattoos, pop art – sometimes you need a little Southern California rockabilly in your foreign travels. Mundo Bizarro explores the car bomb drinker side of you with an eclectic cocktail menu and someone’s Bizarro version of soul food. Located on Serrano just off of the plaza, Mundo Bizarro is a great alternative to standard Argentine partying. Unless it’s exactly what you were looking to get away from.

Why go Bizarro? Pum Pum art in the bathroom and rockabilly on the jukebox makes you feel all urban cowboy/gaucho inside. The crowd is way cooler than your average nightclub or “after office” and will welcome your tattoos. Or cause you to feel naked without them.

8. Kim y Novak

If you only have time for one blowout night, make it a Kim y Novak night. A combination of decent deejays and a good cocktail menu compliment the sixties-mod, “Barbie’s First Diner,” décor. The bar attracts a hip crowd that runs the gamut from normal Argentines-out-to-play, to fading rock and film stars looking for last hurrahs. On the biggest party nights, there’s a consistent blend of good-looking garbage and high-quality spectacle. In a town full of seductive nightlife options, Kim y Novak is the sexiest.

Why is Kim y on the hotlist? It’s the nuthouse you always wanted to party in – totally bananas at times, and perfect for nightlife veterans.

9. Salon Pueyrredon

Set in an old house, this rock venue is the real deal. It’s the CBGB’s of Buenos Aires with bands every night and cheap beers and covers. You climb the stairs and enter the parlor with red walls and a black bar of beer and wine. Straight ahead is the living room with raised stage and bawdy band. There’s almost always a good crowd and “una buena onda” (a good vibe) with a rock edge.

Why rock Argentina style? This is the city where the Ramones played three back to back nights in the River stadium. An earthquake registered in the area when the entire stadium started pogo-ing, i.e. 60,000 kids jumping at the same time. Argentines take their indie and hard core very seriously. Coverse sneakers is the uniform of Generation Porque and it’s a great town to get out and enjoy local bands all night.

10. Congo

Congo, at the crossroads of Palermo Soho and Hollywood, will make you understand why BA is so often called the Paris of South America. It is fancy in that je ne sais quoi kind of way. A booth on the terrace with a bucket of champagne and you will quickly forget any worries you may have, like how annoying it has been to get change for the hundred peso notes you get out of the ATM, or how hard it is to decide which tango show to attend.

Why go Congo? The bar is a pleasure, with multiple rooms and a great staff. You will feel so fabulous you’ll forget your backpack and hostel mates entirely and make new Argentine friends at the bar like you’re a local.

11. (Bonus) Ciudad Konex

Konex isn’t exactly in Palermo, but it’s close enough and it manages to have the greatest Monday evening you’ll ever experience. Replete with trapeze artists and a twenty-five-person drum circle/orchestra, Ciudad Konex Mondays at 7pm is why you travel. The party is exciting and different and it’s set in a converted factory. Come back Saturday night to shake something on the dance floor that was once a parking lot.

Why is Konex necessary in your Palermo life? You came here to get to know the city and this is a mini version of young Buenos Aires – like Ibiza in the South American concrete jungle.

Community Connection!

For more picks on hot night spots in Palermo and the greater BaAs, get in touch with Zento, Christian, Anthony or Durban–or our BsAs expert, Ryan.