Matador Nights

Japan’s Obsession With Fire: 6 Things You Don’t Want to Miss

24 Sep 2008 in Festivals by Turner Wright

Above photo by EdenandJosh .

To anyone who’s ever gone camping while traveling, the alluring effect of a fire is all too familiar.

People gathered around its flames, taking turns dropping a tiny amount of water (or liquor) into its path, stretching their legs ever closer in attempts to seize the heat and capture its awesome energy.

It provides a sense of community. Swapping travel stories. Sharing drinks. Making smores (how internationally known are those, by the way?).

From dragon tales, to rites of purification, to a prominent mention in the 4th book of Harry Potter, fire plays a larger role in world culture and history than most would believe. Even in this modern age, with bonfires replaced by central heating and its light by alternating current, this common chemical reaction is literally larger than life.

In Japan, for example, one can bear witness to the…

1. Umbrella Burning Festival

Photo by Turner Wright.

By far the most unusual expression of fire I’ve ever had the chance to observe.

Once upon a time, nearly 900 years ago, two brothers by the name of Soga led an attack in the middle of the night against their adversary. Apparently unable to secure torches for the journey, they took to using the closest objects available, paper umbrellas, to light their path of vengeance.

This festival, the Soga Don No Kasayaki (そがどんの傘焼き), is celebrated in the southern city of Kagoshima (and Odawara, closer to Tokyo), the Naples of Japan, a city blessed with a beautiful landscape and some legendary hot springs.

In late July, residents gather along the riverbank to bear witness as a large stack of paper umbrellas is burned to the ground, accompanied by dancing, shouting, history lessons, and demonstrations of strength.

2. Fire Foods

Yakitori (焼き鳥)

Grilled chicken on a stick, available at many supermarkets and most festivals and open-air markets.

Takoyaki (たこ焼き)

Fried pieces of dough filled with mayonnaise and a piece of octopus… isn’t it helpful to read Japanese?

Yakiniku (焼き肉)

The cream of the crop, Japanese BBQ. A variety of meat grilled over an open flame and served on a bed of rice. Quite sweet and savory.

3. Flower Fire

Photo by Turner Wright.

Shigeru Miyamoto wasn’t too far off giving a mustachioed plumber from Brooklyn the power to shoot fire from his hands upon contact with a very special flower.

Fire flowers.

Flower fires, from the Chinese characters 花火, or, in layman’s terms: fireworks.

The 4th of July celebrations on American soil would be put to shame by many of the festivals across Japan in the month of August. Each prefecture, each city, strives to be the best, boast the biggest number of explosions in the sky, the loudest cracks, the most intense flames….

Try walking anywhere in Japan at the end of the Obon holiday (honoring the dead) and not see Japanese in their light summer yukata or kimono, wearing geta (wooden shoes), and on their way to an all-day celebration of food and drink before twilight sets in and the sky is ablaze.

Of all the locations I’ve seen firework celebrations in Japan, I prefer the island of Miyajima with the famous floating shrine. Be careful to escape quickly, though, because you could easily miss the last train to Hiroshima in the back of a 300,000+ crowd.

4. The Volcano is Lit… On Purpose

Photo by EdenandJosh.

Mt. Aso, or Aso-san as it is read in Japanese, was once one of the largest volcanoes in the world.

If you’d have glimpsed it thousands of years ago, it would have been a vision to make even Dante nostalgic for the 9th circle: dozens of smaller eruptions, venting the pressure from the larger magma source, yellow sulfur scattered across the landscape, burning blue just at the edge of the tree line… these explosions eventually occurred too quickly and frequently, causing the entire mountain to collapse in on itself, creating the largest caldera in history.

Locals see the peaks of Aso as resembling a sleeping Buddha, with the active peak, Nakadake, his navel.

An image of such harmony, belying the essence of the mountains, explains much of the culture: fire festivals are held every year to pay homage to this awesome force, fields burned to form one of the largest kanji (Chinese characters) on the planet, nearly 350 meters in length: 火.

Have you guessed it?

FIRE.

The Hifuri Shinji festival, held around the same time of year, is just as impressive, though on a smaller scale.

Participants, professionals, and tourists light torches in front of the Ichinomiya Aso Shrine and set them spinning in circles, creating literally what Johnny Cash meant figuratively: a burning, burning, burning ring of fire.

The act of setting the fire loose, or flinging the fire, as it were, is meant to ensure a good harvest in the coming months and to celebrate the union of the gods.

5. Firewalking

Photo by forward.

Purification by fire is a common belief amongst certain sects of Buddhism. On the island of Miyajima in mid-November, one can watch in angst as priests shuck their sandals and brave a river of hot coals, cleansing the body as well as the soul through pure flames.

Walking on coals isn’t as painful as some would have you believe; unless you’re standing in one place on them for more than a few seconds, it’s unlikely you’ll feel anything more than a warm tingling sensation… coal is not particularly conductive.

6. In Your Own Neighborhood

If you happen to be spending time in Japan in early-mid January, be sure to take advantage of the Tondo Festival. At the lunar new year, neighbors gather to light a huge bonfire and share stories, sake, and mochi (Japanese rice cakes, traditionally eaten at the new year).

Although the Tondo is more commonly attended by residents, I seriously doubt there would be any hesitation over letting a friendly visitor partake in the festivities. All in good fun, in the spirit of celebration.

How have you observed other cultures using fire? Share your stories.

A First Timer’s Guide to Oktoberfest

16 Sep 2008 in Festivals, Music, drinks by Stuart Anderson

Feature photo by PixJK.

A guide for first time attendees to one of the biggest beer celebrations in the world.

–Note: Oktoberfest 2008 begins September 20th and runs to October 5th in Munich.

You race a mob of lads in leather shorts to find a seat in the packed, wooden tent. A busty barmaid whams down an enormous glass of beer. You drink to the cry of Prost! and get ready to do it again. Then you stroll outside and jump on the roller-coaster.

You’re pushed, pulled, stretched and slammed and decide this would have been a better idea before the beer!

Feeling hungry now? Nothing a plate of pork knuckles wouldn’t fix. Easy to fill your belly here, if you’ve got the coin for it. The sun goes down and you head back inside.

You start swinging your drink and singing along to the sound of oom-pah music. Soon you’re dancing on the benches with a dozen friendly locals.

Photo by Herby Crus.

Munich’s Oktoberfest originated in 1810 as a horse race to celebrate the royal wedding. But everyone apparently enjoyed the drinking a lot more than the horse racing and had such a great time they decided to do it all again the following year.

The horse race is now part of history, but the beer certainly isn’t. Oktoberfest is officially the world’s biggest party, drawing about 7 million visitors a year to southern Germany. The action takes place on Munich’s fairgrounds, called the Wiesn, south-west of the city’s main train station.

When to Go

Oktoberfest 2008 starts on Saturday, September 20 and finishes on Sunday, October 5. There’s often a mad rush to find a seat before the beer starts flowing at 10 AM (9 AM on weekends). There’s a parade on the second day and a gay party on the first Sunday. Weekdays are much quieter than weekends, especially around lunchtime.

Which Tent to Pick

Most of the drinking is done in the 14 big beer tents - actually big wooden halls. You can reserve tables through oktoberfest.de, but most sell out months in advance.

The festivities officially start in the Schottenhamel tent and often reach their rowdiest in the Hacker (Haven of Bavaria). The bright red Hippodrom tent near the main entrance can’t be missed: It’s the place to see and be seen among Munich’s hipper, younger, set.

The Hofbru tent is famed for pulling far more tourists than locals; the Augustiner might be the best for Bavarian authenticity; and the Lowenbrau becomes a good option when everywhere else is full.

Photo by StrudelMonkey.

Where to Stay

Munich’s Thalkirchen Camping Ground could be the cheapest place to stay with tents available for just a few euros. There’s a small supermarket on site, regular buses to the Wiesn and a 24-hour party ambience during Oktoberfest. It’s at Zentrall, 49, Munich.

A handful of good hostels sit just south of the main train station, about a 15 minute stagger back from the Wiesn. Check out Jaeger’s for its friendly bar, or the top-rated Wombat’s. Both are in Senefelder Strae.

What to Wear

Practically anything goes, but for an extra layer of fun, consider kitting out like a local. For guys, a pair of Lederhosen leather shorts start from 120 euros.

For gals, a traditional Dirndl dress costs about 100 euros. Tip: When worn correctly, Dirndls also reveal the wearer’s availability. Look just above the apron: If there’s a bow on the right, she’s taken. A bow on the left means she’s still to be had, and a bow bang on the front marks a virgin.

What to Eat and Drink

Beer!? The amber fluid is served exclusively in one litre glass mugs, called Ma (mass) that cost about 8 euros. The beer is slowly brewed through the summer and packs a six-percent alcoholic punch. For a change, try the beery-lemonade mixture called Radler, or head out to the wine tent.

Food is everywhere. Popular picks are roast chicken (Hendl), pork knuckes (Schweinshaxe), and giant pretzels. The huge hearts hung around girls’ necks are made of gingerbread. For the daring there’s the Ox (Osche).

Photo by .myke.

What to Say

Can I sit here? Darf ich mich zu dir sitzen? (Darf ik mik zoo dear sit-zen?)

One beer, please! Ein Ma, bitte! (Eyn mass, bit-tey!)

Cheers! Prost! (Prawst!)

Your eyes are as pretty as a meadow full of cows. Deine Augen sind so schn wie eine Weisen Tulpen. (Dine-ny ow-gen sind so schern vee eyen vee-sen tul-pen)

Let’s go back to my tent for a coffee! Gehen wir mal zu meinem Zelt f?r einen Kaffee! (Gay-en veer mal zoo mine-em zelt fair eyn-en kaf-ey!)

I need to chuck up. muss kotzen. (Ik moose kot-zen).

I have a killer hangover. Ich habe so einen Katter. (Ik hab-ey so eyn-en kat-er).

Want more insider tips for Oktoberfest? books and music can get you beered up–uh, geared up–for the big fest. Can’t get there this year? Try brewing your own beer at home and have your own Oktoberfest!

Burning Man 2008: A Retrospective in Images

15 Sep 2008 in Festivals, Music by Sonia Zamborsky
Burners will tell you there’s no way to describe being at Burning Man; you have to experience it for yourself. These photos will at least help you imagine how it was on the playa, 2008.

Photo by Sonia Zamborsky

Mind Shaft Society’s exhibit entitled “America 3.0″ encouraged people to answer the question “What is Your American Dream?”

Photo by Sonia Zamborsky.

(Happy) Playa Feet! Some people wore moon boots to try to keep their little piggies clean, others just gave in and embraced the dust.

Photo by Sonia Zamborsky.

A life-size mermaid adorns the front prow of Lady Sassafras, a giant silver bus that roamed the Playa blasting out party tunes.

Photo by Sonia Zamborsky.

The French Maid Brigade visits Barbie Death Camp & Wine Bistro.

Photo by Sonia Zamborsky.

This gentleman was giving away George Bush voodoo dolls from the depths of his fabulous gold suitcase.

Photo by Sonia Zamborsky.

Just another day at 8:00 and Bonneville.

Photo by Sonia Zamborsky.

The American Dream, burner-style, at sunset.

Photo by Sonia Zamborsky.

Preparing for the impending dust storm at Center Camp.

Photo by Sonia Zamborsky.

The Temple of Basura Sagrada, constructed mainly from burnable trash, recycled materials, and the tossed-off detritus of American society.

Photo by Sonia Zamborsky.

View of The Man from the second level of The Temple of Basura Sagrada.

Photo by Sonia Zamborsky.

Myk Henry’s “Bummer” art installation becomes an impromptu dance party.

Photo by Sonia Zamborsky.

Accordion players strike up a tune at Kaleidoscope Kamp

Photo by Sonia Zamborsky.

Fireworks herald the start of the main event.

Photo by Sonia Zamborsky.

The Man Burns!

Photo by Sonia Zamborsky.

The Temple of Basura Sagrada burns on Sunday night.

Photo by Ross Borden

Taken in a statue garden off the Esplanade at 5:45 am. This is the most beautiful time of day in the Black Rock Desert.

Photo by Ross Borden

Looking from the top of the Temple across at the Man towards 6:00 / Center Camp.

Photo by Ross Borden

The Fire Garden at 10pm — start your night with flames shooting a couple feet over your head in all directions.

Photo by Ross Borden

This place had great music, a bar that was always serving stiff drinks and was a favorite hangout for the “really, really, really, really goodlooking people”.

Photo by Ross Borden

Metal ducky: one of the cooler single passenger art cars we saw on the playa.

Photo by Ross Borden

Vegas has nothing on Black Rock City.

Photo by Ross Borden

Critical Tits. There were so many participating that it became a traffic jam of bikes and boobs before it even got going. Most ended up walking their bikes.

Photo by Ross Borden

Really good house music and fun people at this tent.

Photo by Ross Borden

Wrapping up a sunset DJ session.

Photo by Ross Borden

Flaming ping pong anyone?

Photo by Ross Borden

A super-creative art car, all made out of scrap metal and old car parts.

Photo by Ross Borden

A DJ way out near the Temple, finishing his set around 5:30am.

Photo by Sonia Zamborsky.

The Aftermath: where else in the world would you see trash quite like this?

House of Couture: Couture Fashion Show in NYC 2008

12 Sep 2008 in Fashion by Kelly Saunders
Having the opportunity to photograph some of the hottest designers of the season at the Couture Fashion Show in NYC, I was able to get the scoop on the freshest designs to hit the runway. Here are photos and impressions from my journey into the world of couture and some fresh new labels.

The show lasted for three days and started with the fresh new look of Edwing D’Angelo.

Born in Colombia, Edwing got his inspiration to design beautiful, intricate women’s cocktail and special occasion dresses as well as a full men’s line.

Other designers included Sararose Krenger, Cecilia Perez, Nedret Taciroglu (Turkey), Soucha Couture (Egypt), Katerina Bocci (Albania) and Romanitza (Romania).

Most of these designers are just now being recognized in the States for their amazing talent and ability to create beautiful couture clothing.

A model herself, Ms. Iovan initiated her Romanitza fashion label and she has become one of the most successful designers in Romania.

The exquisite detail of her designs is why she is being named one of the most innovative designers of the season.

Another fabulous designer was Sushma Patel from the Middle East. After graduating from the Academia Della Moda in Florence, Italy, Sushma eventually settled in Cairo, Egypt.

He continues to base his inspiration on the beautiful shape of a woman and never stops exploring new ideas and design techniques.

For more information on the show schedule, designers present and other information please visit:

www.couturefashionweek.com

www.edwingdangelo.com

www.romanitza.ro

www.soucha-hc.com


www.annspoyer.com

For The Love Of Boobies: Boobalicious Vancouver

10 Sep 2008 in Clubs by Ian MacKenzie

Vancouver’s most titillating party went off this year with a bang, raising the bar and funds for a good cause.

By day, Dr. Sun Yat-Sen’s Chinese Garden is an oasis in the heart of Vancouver. But last Saturday, it was transformed into a pulsating nightclub to host Boobalicious 2008, an event put on by Black Wool Inc benefiting Keep A Breast, a breast cancer awareness organization.

The Boobtastic event featured burlesque dancers, live breast-casting and many a good time for all boob lovers. Enjoy the coverage!

Beer Quest 2008: The Search for America’s Best Microbrew

5 Sep 2008 in Bars, Festivals, drinks by Ben Cox and Jamie Kent

Feature photo by Ben Cox and Jamie Kent. Photo above by Guanatos Gwyn.

So you’re sick of Busch Light and PBR? Looking for a more satisfying beer? Guess what – you’re not alone. More and more young people are ditching the national heavyweights for better tasting craft brews.

Lucky for us, we don’t have to look hard for a better beer. Thousands of microbreweries are popping up across the nation and, chances are, there’s one in your own backyard.

Leaving beer-flavored water behind can be a little intimidating at first, like saying goodbye to those incoherent college days. But fear not - there’s an endless array of awesomeness that awaits you. No one has ever regretted the decision to drink quality beer.

The Great Beer Road-Trip Of 2008

Like you, we were thirsty for something different, and so we hit the road in search of the best beer in America.

Beer Quest 2008 was a crazy adventure that took us through about 30 breweries in 30 states. Although we’ve come home tired and broke, we’ve gained two valuable lessons about traveling and beer:

Lesson #1:
People are great, and most will offer inside info to road trippers. Play your traveling cards right and you’ll inevitably meet some amazing folks with great insights on the local scene.

Lesson #2:
There’s good beer everywhere. Just hit the bars with a touch of curiosity and enjoy the local microbrews on tap. You won’t know what you like until you try it.

Photo by Ben Cox and Jamie Kent.

Beer Report 2008

Sampling over 200 microbrews was hard work, but we’re proud of the fruit of our labor. Beer Report 2008 not only lists the best brews in the country, but also the best breweries and brewpubs to visit.

The Basics

All beer starts with four ingredients: water, yeast, hops, and malted barley (i.e. sugar). The yeast eats the sugar, creating alcohol. Hops are added for flavor and the water holds it all together. Pretty simple, right?

Well, the Great American Beer Festival (GABF) gives awards for 75 different categories of beer, so there’s plenty of room for creativity. 75 categories intimidates the hell out of us, so we decided to make things simpler and base our rankings on 11 general categories:

1. Pale Ale (English style and west coast) - a light, smooth beer. East coast generally equals English style; much maltier, less bitter. West coast pales are loaded with hops, so they smell fruitier and tend to pack a punch.

2. Pilsner/Kolsch - light bodied German style beers. New to beer? Try this one first; it goes down real smooth.

3. Hefeweizen - cloudy, unfiltered, golden wheat beer, often decorated with lemon.

4. Wheat -same as above, but filtered.

5. Fruit Beer - any type of beer with fruit added to the mix.

6. India Pale Ale (IPA) - a super hoppy beer with a fruity taste and a bitter finish.

7. Amber -medium in color, medium in body.

8. Brown - getting darker…

9. Porter/Stout - dark, toasty, creamy, a meal in a glass.

10. Miscellaneous - when brewers have the chance to get creative, there’s a lot they can pull off.

11. Only on tap - brews you can only find on tap at local brewpubs across the country. They can easily surpass the offerings of larger breweries, but you have to know where to find them (that’s where we come in).

Each of these categories brings a unique brew to the table. If you’re just getting into microbrews, we suggest starting with the light choices and working your way toward the dark side, just like Anakin Skywalker.

After six weeks on the road, 30 breweries and 30 states, 10,000 miles traveled, and over 200 beers sampled, here’s what we recommend.

Photo by Ben Cox and Jamie Kent.

Top Brews

Pale Ale

Steel Rail Pale Ale - Berkshire Brewing Co. (S.Deerfield, MA) (East Coast): Smooth, malty, with fruity hints, and straight from the Berkshire Mountains.

Mighty Arrow Pale Ale - New Belgium Brewing Co. (Ft. Collins, CO) (West Coast): A grapefruit filled nose, mouth watering flavor, and great balance. Packs a punch, but goes down easy.

Kolsch/Pilsner

Gruit Kolsch - Roots Brewing Co. (Portland, OR): Lavender and chamomile replace the hops here; relaxing, organic, and fantastic.

Wheat

Sunset Wheat - Jacob Leinenkugel Brewing Co. (Chippewa Falls, WI): Smooth and fruity; like a great sunset, but bottled.

Hefeweizen

In Heat Wheat - Flying Dog Brewery (Frederick, MD): Chewy, with a strong wheat flavor and crisp finish.

Fruit Beer

Purple Haze - Abita Brewing Company (Abita Springs, LA): A raspberry lager Hendrix would love.

IPA

90 Minute IPA - Dogfish Head Brewing Co. (Milton, DE): A hopheads heaven. This beer will kick your ass if you’re not ready for it.

Amber

Drop Top Amber - Widmer Brothers Brewing Co. (Portland, OR): Smoother than silk with fruity hints and a well balanced, malty body.

Brown

Hazelnut Brown - Rogue Ales (Newport, OR): Flavor that dances in your mouth, reminiscent of your morning coffee with a toasty body to back it up.

Porter/Stout

Chocolate Stout - Rogue Ales (Newport, OR): True dark chocolate flavor balanced with a crisp finish and creamy body.

Miscellaneous

Double Bag Ale - Long Trail Brewing Co. (Bridgewater Corners, VT): The smoothest beer with over 7% alcohol that we have ever tried.

Only On Tap

Meyer ESB - Thirsty Bear Brewing Co. (San Francisco, CA): This nitro infused beer looks just as good as it tastes.

Photo by misterbisson.

Top Breweries

All breweries were ranked based on overall quality, variety, availability, environment, social impact, creativity, and, well, our humble opinion. Based on these factors, five microbreweries surpassed the rest. Drum roll please…

1. Flying Dog Brewery (Frederick, MD)

Topping just about every one of our ranking categories, it is an honor to award Flying Dog with the Summer Brew Tour’s number one brewery ranking. Their list of great beers spans everything from an In Heat Wheat to the Gonzo Porter, giving them a well-rounded and practically unbeatable lineup.

The fine folks at Flying Dog also let us sample beer out of their 300 barrel fermentation tanks. By the way, did we mention all of their artwork is done by gonzo artist Ralph Steadman?

2. Rogue Ales (Newport, OR)

The variety and availability of this brewery are amazing for a midsized micro (at least 30 different beers in all 50 states!). If you’re into the darker stuff, Rogue Ales can’t be beat. If not, give their Red IPA or Chipotle Ale a try. If you’re not part of the Rogue Nation yet, join the revolution.

3. Magic Hat Brewing Company (S. Burlington, VT)

This Burlington-based brewery offers a fantastic artillery of beer, particularly for those hot summer days. Their unfiltered and unfettered Circus Boy is one of the top three Hefeweizens we’ve come across, and their flagship #9 is the best Apricot Ale we’ve ever tried. Not to mention, their recently expanded facilities in Vermont include a new taproom with 48 tap lines for the ultimate touring experience.

4. New Belgium Brewing Company (Fort Collins, CO)

Coined “The most environmentally friendly brewery in the world,” New Belgium not only sets the bar with their sustainability efforts, but they also offer a great lineup of brews. Their Mighty Arrow is the best West coast-style Pale Ale we’ve tried, and their flagship Fat Tire Amber Ale just hit the canning line. If that’s not enough, their taproom is open every day!

5. Widmer Brothers Brewing (Portland, OR)

This large micro is a Portland staple and most commonly known for its flagship Hefeweizen, which you can find just about anywhere in the country. Little do most know, the rest of their beer is just as good. The Drop Top Amber is unbeatable and the Broken Halo IPA is one of the top three West coast-style pales we’ve come across.

Keep an eye out for these guys - after a recent merger with Red Hook, we have a feeling you’ll be seeing a lot more of them in your local liquor store.

Photo by Burnt Pixel.

Top Brewpubs

All of the brewpubs we visited were ranked based on the quality and variety of beers on tap, the food they served, and the overall atmosphere of the establishment. We highly recommend checking out these places.

1. Capitol City Brewing Company (Washington, D.C.)

CapCity’s unique lineup of quality brews is what propelled it past all other brewpubs in our journey. Its three locations in the D.C. area offer a great escape from the city and a hearty menu complements all the beers on tap. We’re sure there’s a brew and a meal here for everyone in your dinner party. Try the Tart Cherry Ale, a favorite of ours and something you won’t find anywhere else.

2. Mountain Sun Brewing Company (Boulder, CO)

The Mountain Sun has more beers on tap than any brewpub we’ve come across. Teamed with a cozy environment and an interesting crowd of diehard beer lovers, you’re sure to have a good time. Give the F.Y.IPA or the Pearl St. Porter a try.

3. Thirsty Bear Brewing Company (San Francisco, CA)

Thirsty Bear sets itself apart from the rest with an impressive tapas menu that leaves more room for the good stuff. Snack away as you sip on their nitro infused Meyer ESB, unquestionably the best we’ve come across.

4. Crescent City Brewing Company (New Orleans, LA)

Should you ever find yourself in The Big Easy, take a break from Bourbon Street debauchery and stumble over to Decatur, where Crescent City is waiting to introduce you to some quality German-style brews and classic local cuisine. Don’t miss the baked oysters and the Pilsner, both the best of this tour.

5. River City Brewing Company (Wichita, KS)

Located in the heart of Old Town, River City needs to be part of anyone’s trip to Wichita. They’ve got more seasonal brews than any brewpub out there, stretching the boundaries of traditional styles. You’ll leave wholly satisfied, most likely in a cab.

First Timer’s Guide to Full Moon Raves

2 Sep 2008 in Festivals, Music, Sex by Matt Kepnes

Feature photo by re-ality. Photo above by jeremydeades.

From its shadowy origins to tips on raging there today, here’s everything you need to know about Thailand’s Full Moon Raves.


It’s sunrise. In fact, it’s my third sunrise this week
. All around me, music blasts as hundreds of people dance and drink on the beach. Buckets and beers cover the sand and passed out people are checked on by the occasional passerby. I look around. Tonight was a lot of fun. Full moon raves always are.

What is the Full Moon Rave?

The origins aren’t fully known, but legend has it that in 1987 a group of young backpackers celebrated the birthday of a friend under a full moon in Thailand. They had so much fun they came back the following year and then the following month.

Word got out and more people came. Enterprising Thais saw an opportunity and hyped the party, bringing more people.

At first it was like a house party on the beach–a few hippies and backpackers playing guitars. The 90s brought the rave scene and all the drugs that went with it.

By 2000, Thailand was on the map and hordes of young people inspired by the movie The Beach were flocking to Ko Pha Ngan. The Full Moon Rave was in full swing.

Photo by zhaffsky.

What to Expect Now?

The Full Moon Rave has turned into a giant party with a lot of drinking, dancing, drugs, and sex. Each bar has its own sound system, so you’ll hear different music every few feet.

The beach is lined with people selling alcohol, fire dancers put on shows. Little booths are also set up selling glow-in-the-dark face paint as kids run up and down the beach selling trinkets and glowsticks.

When Is It?

The full moon of every month. High season parties see about 20,000-30,000 people, with the full moon around New Year seeing the most. It you miss it, there’s always the half moon party, quarter moon party, and black moon party. Really, every day is a party here.

Click here for the 2008/2009 schedule.

Photo by nogoodreason.

Where to Stay?

There’s accommodation all over the island, but you’ll want to stay in Haad Rin so you can be close to the action. Bungalows start at about 300 baht and go up from there. Bungalows on the beach, despite what Lonely Planet says, are at least 1,000 baht a night.

If you want any chance at cheap accommodation, get here at least three days in advance. The closer you get to the party, the higher the prices are and the harder it is to find a room. Get here that day and you’ll need a miracle to find accommodation, especially if it’s during the high season.

How Do I Get There?

There’s no airport on the island, so everyone comes via ferry. You can arrive via the Surat Thani, on the mainland, or from its bigger neighbor, Ko Samui. From Surat Thani, roundtrip tickets cost about 600 baht and drop you off at Thong Sala.

From Samui, tickets cost about 400 baht and leave from Big Buddha Pier or Maenam beach. The Samui ferry will drop you off at the main dock of Thong Sala or at Haad Rin depending on time of day. During the full moon rave, boats go from Samui to Haad Rin every hour.

Travel Tips:

  • Tickets can be bought in Haad Rin but are more expensive. Save yourself money and buy a return ticket before you get to Haad Rin. Many companies run buses from Bangkok for 450 baht but in Asia, you really get what you pay for and if you are paying that little there’s a high chance you’re being scammed.
  • Thefts from Khao San Road buses are notorious. Pay the extra money and get some peace of mind. If it seems like it’s a good deal, it’s not.
  • Photo by re-ality.

    Costs

    Here’s a sample budget for a full moon rave in Haad Rin:

  • Bungalow: 300+ baht
  • Average meal: 100 baht
  • Banana Pancakes: 30 baht
  • Beer: 80-100 baht (30 in 7-11)
  • Cigarettes: 60 baht
  • Buckets: 120-200 baht, depending on what kind of alcohol.
  • Partying Tips

    Drugs: There are a lot of drugs here, especially during the full moon. All drugs are illegal in Thailand and possession is punishable with time in the worst prison or death.

    Undercover police will try to sell you drugs only to arrest you. Locals will rat you out for a reward. You could probably avoid jail by paying a hefty “penalty.” Simply put, doing drugs here is stupid. The risk is not worth the reward. Ever see Brokedown Palace? They weren’t making that stuff up.

    Buckets: Buckets are little sand pails filled with one pint Thai whiskey, one Red Bull, and one Coke. They’re deadly! One, two, three, passed out on the beach! If you want to make it to sunrise, don’t start drinking buckets before midnight.

    (Note: The Red Bull in Asia is a kind of ephedra. This substance is like speed and you’ll be flying high after one of them. It also negates the effect of the alcohol quickly, keeping you from feeling drunk. Be careful and watch your consumption of both liquids.)

    Photo by timparkinson.

    Safety Tips

    Pre-hydrate: You are going to be drinking a lot and, even though it is night, the weather is still hot and humid. Drink a lot of water!

    Avoid the ocean: It may seem like a good idea to play in the ocean, but it’s not. Not only do you risk drowning, but everyone uses the ocean as a personal toilet. There’s a reason why the water is warm, and it’s not because you are in Thailand. Stay sanitary and don’t go in.

    Wear footwear: Partying on the beach without footwear may seem like a good idea but as the night goes on, broken beer bottles and other sharp objects litter the beach. Avoid a foot injury and just wear something on your feet!

    Bring enough money for drinks and a copy of your passport in case of an emergency. You don’t need anything else.

    Protect your belongings: Theft is ripe during full moon raves. Bring as little as possible. You’ll be drinking so much, chances are you could lose something. Bring enough money for drinks and a copy of your passport in case of an emergency. You don’t need anything else.

    Community Connection

    Plenty of Matador members have partied hard in Thailand, but they’ve also enjoyed other experiences as well. Check out 18 year old Rigo Lara’s article about his first trip abroad or Ian MacKenzie’s profile of Sean Aiken, who made his experience SCUBA diving in Thailand.

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