Carnaval Highlights from Montevideo, Uruguay

In the last dispatch in our series about Carnaval celebrations around South America, regular contributor Dominic DeGrazier shares his favorite photographs from Carnaval in Uruguay.

If you speak with a Uruguayan long enough, you will most likely hear one or more of the following comments: the first World Cup was played here in 1930; Carlos Gardel (the revered tango singer) was born here; and for approximately 40 days Uruguay entertains the world’s longest Carnaval celebration. It’s a mix of parades, nightly shows, and more in Montevideo and a few of the beach towns on the Atlantic coast.

Here are some of my favorite photos from the 2009 Carnaval:


Parades showcase “murga” artists, each decorated with their own theme. The murgas sing, dance, and act their way down the street. This murga has stopped for a moment to adjust his hat.


Two female clowns roll by, crowds cheering them on in the background.


One group dressed and performed as disco dancers.


The 2009 Queens of Carnaval stand on their float, waving to the crowd.


A candombe musical group beats its drums and shares a smile with the crowd.

Community Connection:

Have you seen our Carnaval photos from Bolivia, Brazil, and Colombia? Did you attend a Carnaval celebration this year? Share your photos with the community by uploading your favorite images to your Matador profile (if you don’t have one, sign up now! It’s free!)

Brazilian Carnaval: Going Beyond Rio

“There are no half-naked women,” I told my husband when I called to tell him about the Brazilian Carnaval celebrations I’ve been covering this week.

“You’re kidding, right?” he asked.

Nope. Most images of Brazil’s Carnaval celebrations are shot in Rio, where men and women (often scantily clad) from samba schools parade through the Sambodromo arena, competing for judges’ favor in 10 categories. According to the Associated Press, each samba school can spend as much as $2.5 million USD in an effort to best their competitors.

But outside Rio, Carnaval is for the people and by the people, who gather by the thousands in the streets, some with costumes, some without, most dancing, and everyone pushing their physical limits as they enjoy six straight days of partying.

This week, I participated in Carnaval in the cities of Recife and Olinda, in the state of Pernambuco, and Salvador, in Bahia. Each city celebrates Carnaval in its own way. Here are my favorite photos from the past six days’ of partying!


Artist Silvio Botelho, seen here painting, is credited with starting the tradition of creating and carrying massive puppets down the streets during Olinda’s Carnaval. In the days (and nights) before Carnaval, Silvio and his apprentices work round-the-clock to respond to demands for puppets… which can cost several thousand dollars apiece.


One of Silvio’s finished puppets, crowding the living room of his house until Carnaval kicks off. Most of the puppets depict local politicians, musicians, and other celebrities.


Unlike Carnaval in Rio, where festival goers pay a premium price to view the festivities, Pelourinho’s Carnaval in Salvador is accessible to everyone. This young woman is marching with the Escola Olodum, filling the cobblestone streets with intoxicating drum beats and dance rhythms.


A rare sight– revelers resting before the next round of dancing!


Men in Pelourinho practice gender-bending for the day (and clearly weren’t shy about posing for the camera!)


The highlight of Carnaval celebrations in Salvador is the trio electrico: bands singing and dancing for hours on end from the top of floats built on tractor trailers. Crowds of loyal fans follow along, dancing and singing until the wee hours of the morning.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

Enjoy more Carnaval photos! Check out Hal Amen’s dispatch from Oruro, Bolivia and Ian MacKenzie’s photos from Barranquilla, Colombia.

5 Best Jazz and Blues Venues in Rome

26 Feb 2009 in Bars, Clubs, Music by Susan E. Ulbrich

Feature photo by http://moty66.ipernity.com. Photo above by anniemullinsuk.

The 5 best spots to enjoy some soul in the Italian capital.

Throughout two years of living in bella Roma, I have immersed myself in the blues and jazz scene with a willing ear and an open-mind. Five of the best jazz and blues venues I’ve discovered are:

La Casa del Jazz

“House of Jazz” is the perfect name for this recently renovated and refurbished home of jazz legends. All of the greats perform here, and every great wants to perform here.

American jazz guitarist Larry Coryell performed here with fellow American bassist Jeff Berlin in 2008, along with a sweet medley of saucy tunes from Larry’s singer-wife, Tracey.

Before Mr. Coryell headed to Pomeroy, Ohio to lead a workshop at Jorma Kaukonen’s Fur Peace Ranch, he had this to say about his performance at La Casa del Jazz: “It’s one of the hippest gigs I’ve played in the 21st century.

The beautiful auditorium, the people working here, the park, the great restaurant with pictures of Anita O’Day and Sarah Vaughan on the walls. Wow! It’s the kind of place musicians dream about.”

The auditorium is designed with comfortable, cushioned stadium seats, and wooden beams running from floor to ceiling, draped with sound dampening curtains. There’s a bookstore full of treasures, including Oscar Peterson’s rare albums and an extensive collection of Italian and American contemporaries.

The La Casa del Jazz is located near Testaccio in southwest Rome. It is easily reached by metro, bus, or taxi.

Photo by gutter.

Stazione Birra

The “Beer Station” hosts many blues, rock, and jazz greats, including one of my favorites: Derek Trucks. Trucks is so smooth at age 29 that you’d think he’s been playing for three lifetimes, long before his uncle, Butch Trucks, introduced him to the rest of the Allman Brothers Band.

Hearing Derek in this intimate venue was heaven, not only because of Trucks’ impressive slide guitar, but also because of the inviting interior of the Stazione Birra. The venue is two floors, full of tables covered with aperitivo, Italian styled BBQ, and home-brewed beer (chiara or rossa).

This rocking venue brings me back to my favorite music clubs on the East Coast in the U.S. and the tunes played here resonate for days, weeks, and even months afterward. The Stazione Birra is quite far from the city center, but well worth the trip, even though a taxi or a friend’s car is needed for the last leg of the journey.

Alexanderplatz Jazz Club

Alexanderplatz is “il piu antico jazz club di Roma,” the oldest jazz club in Rome.

This is one of the smallest and one of the best underground jazz clubs in Rome, famous also for its summer jazz festival in the Villa Celia Montana. You become immediately aware of Alexanderplatz’s rich history upon entering the locale, alive with thousands of signatures on its cavernous, white walls.

I had the pleasure of meeting Stefano Bollani at the Alexanderplatz. Bollani, arguably the greatest jazz pianist of his time, performs regularly at the Blue Note in New York City. Signor Bollani’s aura– with his wiry and unkempt hair–reflects that of Alexanderplatz: a rumpled and crowded, yet classy and swanky nightclub.

The venue serves a late pre-show dinner (reservations needed), along with a pricey negroni or martini; however, the best part of the club is the intimacy between the music and audience. There is no stage, but a small nucleus between the cave’s winding autograph-littered walls where the musicians stake their territory.

The vibrations of the upright bass or the trickling trumpet bleats will follow you to the bar, to the closet restroom, up the stairs and outside to the Roman street where well-dressed Italians smoke cigars.

Alexanderplatz is located near the Vatican.

Photo by ragnagne.

The Boogie Club

The Boogie Club is so good that it was worth the 45 minute bus ride and subsequent two mile walk (which might have been avoided with a map, a taxi, and the right bus route).

This well-hidden blues pub is a full of boogie, beer, and bliss. Black and white photos of American blues legends like B.B. King and Robert Johnson line the walls and old-school videos of Elvis and Aretha play in the corners. There is enough room for a small front stage and plenty of table room if you get there early.

Beers come in big steins, hot panini can be ordered until closing time, and the friendly staff is a plus. One of the regular bands is Mississippi Mood, which attributes its name and influences to the Mississippi Delta blues. The crowd is always hopping, of all ages, and because of its distant location, is full of locals and die-hard blues fans.

Depending on the band, you may step back into the soulful 70s or into folk’s early 60s or witness a tribute to Jimi Hendrix or Stevie Ray Vaughan. Another great blues club, on par with the Boogie Club, is Big Mama, located in the central zone of Trastevere.

Be Bop Jazz Club

Be Bop is the smallest jazz venue mentioned here, but no less special than the others. Not quite as alluring and eclectic as Alexanderplatz, Be Bop has its own appeal, including black and white video footage of jazz masters such as Wes Montgomery and John Coltrane during the performance interludes.

Be Bop is a two-minute walk from the Piramide in the zone Testaccio.


Local’s tip: Each of these clubs requires a first-timer fee plus la tessera, the membership card. There’s great satisfaction knowing that a card in your wallet proves you are now a member of Rome’s jazz and blues world. Yet that satisfaction really comes from becoming an integral part of the intimate audience, soaking in the soul, funk, blues and jazz in these special locales.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION:

Music, food, and art: the travel trifecta. Read about slow food and slow travel in Italy here and traveling in Italy on a tight budget here. And be sure to check out the art section in the Green Guide to Florence, which can be found here.

Carnaval Highlights from Oruro, Bolivia

25 Feb 2009 in Festivals by Hal Amen
Per South American tradition, Carnaval festivities are held in every major Bolivian city. Yet, it’s the fabled revelry of Oruro—a town in the Altiplano largely overlooked the other 50 weeks of the year—that draws crowds from throughout the country and beyond.

The main attraction is a 20-hour nonstop dancing parade accompanied by marching bands. Thirty-five thousand or so performers trace a 4km route through the city, which is lined with bleachers to accommodate the estimated half million spectators.

Each group performs its take on one of Bolivia’s traditional dance styles, with troupes from all across the country participating. Unique dress and costumes help distinguish the regional and stylistic affiliations of the different performers.

Of course, it’s not all about sitting and watching the dancers go by. Bolivian Carnaval is defined by intense water balloon wars and attacks utilizing other types of (relatively) harmless weapons, such as spray cans full of foam. Prepare to get dirty… very, very dirty.

There’s no shortage of variety in the costumes donned by performers, from the colorful and quaint…

…to the downright bizarre.

The energy only ratchets up with the setting of the sun. Festivities continue through the night until the sun rises once again on the wild, messy, frenetic streets of Oruro, Bolivia.

Community Connection

Check out our other Carnaval reports from 09, including Barranquilla, Colombia.

Highlights from the Barranquilla Carnaval, Colombia

24 Feb 2009 in Dance, Festivals, Uncategorized by Ian MacKenzie
Most people have heard of the annual Carnaval in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, but did you also know that Colombia has a massive bash ? Matador writer Ian MacKenzie is on the scene to capture the action in photographs.

Jose paints a papier-mache animal mask in preparation for the Carnaval.

Each mask is created with an arcilla (clay) mould, and glued together with paste from the cassava plant.

Master craftsmen hand make hundreds of masks for the dancers.

A cumbia dancer adorns her dress for practice before the Carnaval.

The big day arrives: young Colombians crowd the main parade route, hoping for a glance of the performers.

Dancers in formation.

Playing the trumpet.

The Queen of the Carnaval waves to the raving crowd.

Skull-face flashes the thumbs up.

A gremlin poses for the camera.

Silver warriors intimidate and thrill with their war cries.

Congo men in their colourful costumes, hats piled with fruit.

Policemen abducted and still missing are honoured in the festival.

Masked dancers swing to the pulsating beat.

Black-faced boys twitch eratically and wave pointed spears.

Young and old all participate in the Carnaval.

Cumbia musicians play traditional music.

“Dirt man” combed the crowd, grossing out everyone by eating mud.

The coordinated dancers were the highlight of the festival.

Community Connection

Check out our other Carnaval Highlights from around South America, such as Oruro, Bolivia.

The Tarrus Riley Phenomenon: A Return to Roots and Conscious Reggae

20 Feb 2009 in Bars, Clubs, Music by Lily Girma

All photos courtesy of the author.

The Tarrus Phenomenon

It’s impossible to walk down the streets in Jamaica and not hear the hit song “She’s Royal” blasting from a shop’s radio. And it’s only the latest in a host of singles from Tarrus Riley’s album, “Parables,” played incessantly in Jamaica this past year.

A simple mention of the name Tarrus Riley to a Jamaican instantly leads to a broad smile. This 30-something talent — born in the Bronx, New York, and the son of famous Jamaican artist Jimmy Riley– is the hottest reggae artist to shoot to stardom in the last year.

Tarrus Riley released his first album, Challenges in 2004, but his real success came with Parables in 2006.

Live in Jamaica

Seeing him live, and listening to his lyrics, it’s clear why this man has become a phenomenon. On December 30, 2008, hundreds of locals and visitors came out to see Tarrus Riley perform at the Negril Escape Resort in Negril, Jamaica.

It’s not that he hadn’t performed in Negril before, but this was before “Parables” hit the stores, and his previous appearance in Negril was not a solo act. So for many, experiencing the December 2008 Tarrus concert in Negril was a first.

A Message For Unity, Love, & Peace

Tarrus Riley’s messages are poignant and heartfelt, his smile disarming. “Cut if off,” he sings, “if a relationship is abusive to you, you must cut if off!” His voice is real, comforting and melodious, almost like getting advice from a friend.

With the hit “She’s Royal,” Tarrus’ intention was to lift women’s spirits by addressing the lack of self-esteem so many women deal with. Sure enough, it’s become every lady’s favorite tune.

Other songs include “Beware,” where Tarrus warns to “be careful of dem guns and ammunition” and observes that “it’s a shame to see brothers killing themselves, wasting energy, [when they] should be uplifting themselves.”

Return to Conscious Roots Reggae

“Poom poom poom poom poom!” he interjects between songs. “When I say that, it’s not a gunshot okay, it’s a musical shot!” he explains.

Tarrus’ talented Gumption Band is just as much a treat as the artist himself. Dean Fraser, a legend in his own right and producer of “Parables,” performs saxophone renditions of various sounds Tarrus throws at him. The three female back up singers also prove their talent, performing quick solos for the crowd.

In a time when dancehall and reggaetón have dominated clubs around the world, roots or “conscious reggae” is now making a strong comeback.

With artists like Tarrus Riley blasting messages such as “Beware!” and “Stay With You,” musicians and fans alike are holding on to the freedom-message era of the Bob Marley days, showing a strong need to address today’s multitude of issues through reggae music.

Other artists aligned with Tarrus’ socially conscious music are Luciano and Morgan Heritage.

If you’re headed to Negril soon and want to experience the best of Jamaican music, these are some of my favorite venues:

The Negril Escape Resort, on the Cliffs

Every Tuesday night at 6:30 PM, the Negril Escape Resort hosts the Sunset Show, a live three-hour concert re-enacting all the phases of Jamaican music, from African drums all the way to today’s dance hall.

Folks can party on the seaside terrace. The Sunset Show also features a celebrity reggae artist once a month. Entry to the regular Sunset Show is US$10. For more information, visit Negril Escape’s website.

Alfred’s Ocean Palace

Alfred’s is a favorite for live music every Tuesday, Friday, and Sunday night starting at 11 PM . It’s located on Negril’s Seven Mile Beach. Locals and tourists alike enjoy the sounds of reggae and dance barefoot in the sand and under the stars at this beach nightclub and restaurant. For more information, visit here.

Roots Bamboo

Located on Seven Mile Beach, Roots Bamboo features reggae artists every single week. Past and regular performers include Gregory Isaacs, Natty King, Yellowman, and many others. Live music is playing Wednesday and Sunday nights at 11 PM on for a cover charge of only $300 Jamaican dollars (US $3).

Bourbon Beach

A favorite for live concerts in Negril, with a unique and gigantic colorful stage, Bourbon Beach hosts many reggae stars, such as John Holt and Luciano, every Wednesday night.

Another chance to dance barefoot in the sand and enjoy the best of reggae for only $700 Jamaican (US $9). For more information visit Bourbon Beach.

Additional concerts and live shows are always posted on billboards throughout Negril.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

Matador co-founder Ross Borden stumbled onto a reggae show in Chiang Mai, Thailand. Read his blog post about the experience!

Or, for tips on getting to another music-infused island, check out How To Travel To and From Cuba.

World’s Most Unique Lodging: A Look Inside the Jumbo Hostel

14 Feb 2009 in Hostels and hotels by Lola Akinmade
Matador Goods Editor Lola Akinmade takes a tour of Stockholm’s newest attraction.

Feature Photo and Photo Above by Lola Akinmade

There has been no shortage of press surrounding the Boeing 747 jetliner that was converted to a hostel just outside of Stockholm’s Arlanda Airport. The Jumbo Hostel opened in January and Matador caught up with 36-year old entrepreneur and owner, Oscar Diös, to find out what all the fuss was about.

Matador: So which came first? The idea of converting a plane to a hostel or an available plane itself that spun the idea?

I currently own a hostel in Uppsala and was actually looking to expand my hostel business first. It was difficult finding buildings to convert to hostels within our budget.

Then someone told me about a Boeing 747 plane that was standing at the airport. At the time, the plane was not really available. We started investigating to see if it would be possible to turn it into a hostel by reviewing different layout designs. We really wanted to keep the windows to bring in a lot of light and have the rooms facing outwards.


Photo by Urban A.

Matador: You’ve been in the press a lot lately. What has the world’s reception been to your new hostel?

Very overwhelming but of course a lot of publicity about the project is always great. We’re working quite hard and it’s great to get positive feedback, especially from close friends who say “Oscar, this is actually pretty good.”

Aviation enthusiasts who have seen it are pleased that we’ve kept most of the layout of the plane. We’re also keeping the décor very simple. As you can see, we haven’t slapped a lot of posters and pictures up on the walls yet.

We’re taking it step by step to get a feel for what’s really needed in terms of interior design.


Photo by Lola Akinmade

Matador: This hostel sits just outside the airport, which is roughly 25 miles from Stockholm. Has the location been a negative issue for you? Were there other possible locations where you could have moved the plane?

We have a free shuttle bus from the airport terminals. From the airport, guests can catch trains and buses to Stockholm quite easily. There is a pedestrian walkway which is just 15 minutes from the airport. Of course, during the winter, the walkway is not very convenient.

This was the easiest location for us to keep the plane, because it’s just outside the airport security fence.

To keep within our budget, it became the best location for the plane.

The location has actually been excellent for publicity because it is very visible and an impressive sight from the highway as you approach the airport.

Matador: What has been the most impractical issue you’ve had to deal with while converting the plane?

Insulation and using all floor space in the best optimal way was the most difficult aspect of renovating. Because it is a Boeing 747 airplane, the walls curve outwards. Measuring all the walls and taking their curves into account when designing and fitting the rooms proved to be challenging.


Photo by Lola Akinmade

Matador: Why did you choose to call it “Hostel” as opposed to “Hotel?” Are you targeting a specific group of travelers? Are you worried you may exclude a certain group?

There are a ton of hotels near the airport but there aren’t any hostels. There have never been.

If we made it a hotel, then we won’t be as unique. I prefer to come in and bring something new, not just a plane but an actual hostel to the area.

So now we’re unique in two senses – we’re the first hostel and the first plane to provide lodging in the area.

Also, we prefer to be an up market, upscale hostel rather than a low market, low cost hotel. Jumbo Hostel serves as a two star hotel so we can be both to cater to various types of travelers who want to experience the plane.


Photo by Urban A.

Matador: Any more Jumbo Hostels in the works?

Yes, we’re already looking at possible expansion. This is the first one so we need to have a good reference point because for people, seeing is believing.

Finding the planes might not be that difficult but finding good locations at airports around the world might be more challenging and for that, we need this project to be the model for future reference.

The concept is similar to the boat hostels in Stockholm but this project is a lot bigger to renovate and design.

Taking a plane from a 490 passenger jet to a 72 guest hostel is quite a big difference.

Video Tour of the Jumbo Hostel

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

Looking for some of the world’s best hostels? Check out Matador’s guide to the 20 craziest party hostels around the world.

Where to Go for Carnival if You’re in Europe

12 Feb 2009 in Festivals, Local customs by Ryan Ritchie

Venetian beauties strike a pose. Photo by Frank K.

These 4 European cities prove that Rio hasn’t cornered the market on Carnival-induced revelry.

Mention Carnival and most people’s minds conjure images of Brazil.But Brazil and its Latin American neighbors are by no means the only places to find outlandish costumes, parades with ornate decorations and, of course, copious amounts of booze.

Travelers who brave the cold for a winter trek across the Atlantic discover that Europe is home to some of the most outrageous non-stop Carnival parties on the planet. For those looking for fun, this means hitting many different locales and experiencing how other countries get wild as the main party day differs from city to city.

And unlike the 12-day build-up to Christmas, Carnival’s main event is preceded by random drunkenness for nearly two weeks. Anywhere there’s Christianity, there’s some form of Carnival, but here are four must-see fiestas that make Mardi Gras look like a tea party:

Cologne

Nothing says Carnival like Catwoman. Or Catwomen. Photo by Martin Terber.

This college town has a population of nearly one million people, all of whom take full advantage of Carnival’s anything-goes atmosphere. From wasted dudes doing cartwheels in the middle of a busy intersection to even more wasted dudes riding the tiny slab of metal that connects train compartments, Cologne goes off.

The party actually gets going in November… and goes on and on. By February, the city gets cold, and you’ll need a jacket when you’re standing in line waiting to get in to one of the many clubs and bars that are so packed the windows are fogged up. But don’t worry: There’s the off chance that drunken college kids will keep you entertained by mooning you through the steam.

Those who drive need to make sure they don’t get stuck trying to cross the route on parade day. Not only will the floats add an extra hour to your drive, the swarms of drunken Germans following the parade have little regard for those stuck in vehicles.

Maastricht

A quick drive or train trip from Cologne is Maastricht, a sleepy Dutch border town with nearly all the accouterments of Amsterdam, minus all the tourists and hookers.

The train station lets off at the very beginning of the city’s main parade. This part of town is also where you can get a look at the floats before they get moving. Unlike the United States, where parades consists of baton-twirlers, marching bands and horses, the Maastricht version of Carnival is a bit racier, thanks to floats featuring such characters as an overweight guy sitting on a toilet.

Ah, but floats schmoats. The real action takes place in Vrijthof, the city’s largest square, where at least 10 bars are lined next to each other and costumed partiers dance the afternoon and night away. Nearly every shop closes for the main party day, which means anyone and everyone in town winds up here.

This year’s celebration takes place February 22-24, 2009. More information can be found here.

Venice

Photo by Chiara.

The thousands of people who descend on this romantic city come prepared with masks and costumes and don’t leave until they’ve gotten the most mileage out of their time in the City of Bridges.

Whether it’s officially sanctioned get-togethers in St. Mark’s Square or locals selling Chianti off a boat docked in the Grand Canal on a Sunday at 1 AM, there’s always a gathering of young and old (mostly young) people flipping the proverbial bird to damn near everything by staying out ‘til the sun comes up.

And with so many people out at all hours, those who stumble home take comfort in knowing they are never alone.

This year’s festival takes place February 13-24, 2009. More information can be found here.

Garmisch-Partenkirken

By now you’re wondering why a town most have never heard of would be included on this list. But sleep on Garmisch and miss the most amount of fun humanly possible. Here’s why.

Booze. Thanks to its location in Bavaria near the Austrian border, beer here is cheaper than water. And stronger too. Order a Helles and order another. Repeat until you achieve the desired results.

Costumes. It ain’t easy coming up with a stylish look when your entire life is contained in a backpack, but a silly ski suit found at a thrift store is all anyone needs to act the fool.

Snow. Yeah, you could buy a ticket and ski or snowboard down the Zugspitze, Germany’s highest mountain, but what makes Garmisch so special is Fasching, which takes place on Fat Tuesday. Although it’s not a holiday officially recognized by the city government, there isn’t a soul in town who doesn’t know what’s happening when all those people ascend the mountain just before sundown.

Nearly 200 people congregate at the top of the Zugspitze and enjoy cold beverages while overlooking a sea of perfect white snow. Once the sun sets, skiers, snowboarders and those brave enough to tackle the slopes on a plastic sled descend down four runs in complete darkness with nothing but a tiny light and the shrieks and shrills to guide them.

Each run is broken up with a hut where more beer warms cold bodies and people mingle, telling stories of how they nearly fell over a cliff they almost didn’t see. Sausage is ready and waiting at each stop; so is music, dancing and the occasional puddle of yellow snow.

Garmisch is home to the Edelweiss Lodge and Resort, a hotel for American military members and their families run by Americans who sign up for 13-month contracts to run the facility. This means there’s always a slew of young English speakers around every corner.

So what are you waiting for? Add these European cities to your Carnival list!

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

Are you a globe-trotting party animal? Check out our list of the 10 Biggest Parties Around the World, or — if you decide to head to Rio after all — read up on these 8 Essential Tips for Carnival in Rio.

The Best Places to Catch Live Music in New Orleans

9 Feb 2009 in Bars, Clubs, Dance, Food, Music by Luke Nye

Feature photo by Bob Jagendorf. Photo above by Kiril Kolev.

New Orleans has such a vibrant music scene that it can be difficult to narrow down the options, but here are some of the best.

[Editor's Note: Eva Holland contributed to this article.]

It has been said that everyone in New Orleans is born with an instrument in their hands. In a city that is defined by — and defines — music, it can be hard to choose the best venues for live music, but here are a few of my favorites:

Photo by Photo Mojo.
Preservation Hall

Preservation Hall, a French Quarter classic since 1961, is still flourishing today. The hall is open seven days a week from 8 to 11 PM, though I advise getting there by 7 to make sure you will be able to get in. The cover is very reasonable at $10 a person.

The lineup at Preservation Hall is always world class jazz, blues, or brass bands. The hall is small and intimate. The only places to sit are wooden benches, and there is no air conditioning, no amenities, and no sound system — but when the band starts, the frills don’t matter.

The Spotted Cat

The Spotted Cat is one of a cluster of well-loved venues on Frenchman Street, just northeast of the Quarter. It’s a cozy, intimate spot featuring local jazz acts that are often more mellow than the big brass bands you’ll see in the larger venues. Staff are friendly and there’s generally no cover; drinks are priced up a tad as a result.

Like most spots on Frenchman, the Spotted Cat draws a cool mix of locals old and young, and handfuls of tourists intrepid enough to leave Bourbon Street behind. If your ideal jazz bar experience is a dim hole-in-the-wall where you sit a few feet from the band, this could be your spot.

Tipitina’s

Tipitina’s has been an Uptown New Orleans institution since 1971. Shows are Wednesdays through Sundays, with varying ticket prices. Sunday evenings are host to a weekly Fais do-do, a night of Cajun music and dancing. Cajun music could be described as a cross between bluegrass, country, polka, and a few more old time music styles.

The rest of the shows feature rock, blues, zydeco and other music styles. The club is decent-sized, and has a place to buy t-shirts and other souvenirs. The admission fee also helps out Tipitina’s foundation, which helps keep the spirit of New Orleans music alive.

Rock N’Bowl

The Rock N’Bowl, or Mid-City Lanes, dates back to 1941. While it is a bowling alley, and has somewhat shoddy acoustics, it is also one of the best venues in the city. There are shows most nights of the week, and you can bowl at the same time. Bowling lanes are hard to get most nights, so reservations are a good idea.

The shows here run the gamut of musical styles, but rock is a favorite, and it gets nice and loud during shows. The management consistently books good bands. There is also a well-stocked bar and some decent food for sale.

Photo by Emrys.Roberts.

Hi-Ho Lounge

Hi-Ho Lounge could be considered a dive bar, but it’s a great place for music– especially the Monday Night Blue Grass Pickin’ Party. There’s no cover charge; just buy a drink at the bar.

The rest of the week is filled with harder music acts. The Hi-Ho Lounge is a bit difficult to find as it is out of the way of the normal tourist spots, but worth the effort. The atmosphere is nice, with artwork displayed, and a good drink selection.

Snug Harbor

Snug Harbor is a “World Famous” jazz bistro, with a restaurant up front and a jazz club in the back. The club hosts a jazz musician every night of the week. Mondays always feature Charmaine Neville, who blends music and stories to entertain the audience.

The rest of the days are filled with world-class acts. The bar has a wide selection of drinks and waitresses serve throughout the show.

d.b.a.

Another Frenchman Street favorite, d.b.a. breaks from the NOLA norm, with a bit of a hipster vibe and a more eclectic line-up. You might come across anything from folk to indie rock to African jazz here, along with some of the more traditional local fare.

Arrive early to beat the cover charges, or pay up if you’re feeling fashionably late; it’s usually $5-$10. d.b.a. is also blessed with one of the finest liquor and beer selections in the entire city — give the chalkboards above the bar a good look for that night’s extensive list.

Photo by cyanocorax.

House of Blues

While the House of Blues is a chain, it’s still a top music destination. There is also a restaurant.

The House of Blues hosts both national and local acts almost every night of the week. While it holds a good number of people, it retains an intimate atmosphere. Tickets can be purchased in advance via Ticketmaster to avoid lines.

While at the House of Blues, be sure to stop by local music repository the Louisiana Music Factory, just across the street. It sells works by local blues, jazz, and zydeco artists, as well as less regional blues, soul, country, and R&B.

While these are some of New Orleans’ best venues for live music, there are plenty of others to check out when you are in the city. From nationally known bands playing at headliner venues to talented local bands playing dive bars, there’s live music every night of the week.

Check out NOLA’s beloved alt-weekly, The Gambit, for show listings.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION:

A few Matador members have passed through NOLA: check out New Orleans to Memphis: Searching for the Soul of the Delta, or this handy round-up of NOLA content on Matador, Picks of the Week: New Orleans.

Calcutta Nights: Your Music and Club Scene Guide

Photo above by Matthias Rosenkranz

Feature photo by Bruno Girin

A safe city, and one that has cabs available at all times, Calcutta is ideal for a night on the town.

Visitors to Calcutta get a taste of a culture that has been affected deeply by British colonization as well as more modern trends of globalization, all within a distinctly Indian framework. Some of the city’s best bars, clubs, and live music venues are listed below; in each, you can expect to see and meet an eclectic mix of people.

Clubs

Tantra

Park Hotel, 17 Park Street

Tantra is popular with the city’s young clubbers as well as local and visiting celebrities; expect to be treated even better if you’re staying at the Park Hotel. With a dance floor, an additional lounge area and two bars, this would be a popular place even if it wasn’t in such a posh location.

Stag entries are sometimes restricted. DJ nights, theme nights and jams on Sundays are special features.

Photo above by Bruno Girin

Roxy

Park Hotel, 17 Park Street

Another one of the Park Hotel’s offerings, Roxy is also a popular haunt with city clubbers and tourists. Try the snacks here: the kebabs and starters are worth taking a bite or more. Also, the cocktails here are pretty great. The ambiance is a bit less wild than Tantra’s, so head here if you want a laid back night.

The Underground

235/1 A.J.C. Bose Road

The discotheque at Hotel Hindusthan International is good for a night of dancing and drinking. Nice décor, good music, and some great visiting DJs who drop in from time to time. This is a theme nightclub, with decor recalling the London Underground.

Venom

#6, Fort Knox 8th Floor, Camac Street

A word of warning – this place has “members only” nights, so if you turn up on one of these you won’t get in. Otherwise, it’s quite a decent place to party, offering the usual dance floor and bars, as well as pool tables.

Photo above by danielle_blue

Shisha

22 Camac Street

The biggest attraction of Shisha was once its hookah bar; but since the smoking ban was passed, smoking in public places is an offense. Come March 2009, though, Shisha patrons will see a whole new look, and a new smoker’s den will allow patrons to smoke hookah again.

Other clubs you can check out are Dublin (at ITC Sonar Bangla), Fusion (at the Golden Park), and Cloud 9 (at the Astor). If you don’t feel like going to a crowded pub, then drop in at the Fairlawn Hotel at 13/A, Sudder Street for a relaxing drink.

Photo above by johnnyalive

Live Music


La Dolce Vita

3A, Humayun Palace, Behind New Empire Cinema Hall, New Market

Apart from resident DJs, a lounge area and bar, LDV also has visiting bands of many genres, including classic and alternative rock, funk, and hip hop. Calcutta especially adores rock music, and has its own brand of “Bangla Rock” in the local Bengali language (although I don’t think you will come across these any time soon at places like LDV).

This is one of the newest hangouts for headbangers, as well as loungers and clubbers, and is conveniently located in the New Market area.

Some Place Else

Park Hotel, 17 Park Street

An English pub in the Park Hotel, SPE has different acts playing each night of the week, as well as DJs. This intimate pub is one of the older and most popular spots for live music, especially rock.

Photo above by gabyu

The Princeton

26, Prince Anwar Shah Road

Although not situated near the Park Street or Camac Street areas, The Princeton Cluboffers many genres of live music and cheap alcohol. Live bands usually start playing by 9.30 PM, and the featured bands range from the already established to the up and coming.

Apart from this, some restaurants such as Trincas and the Xrong Place also have live music (mostly rock and jazz) regularly.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION:

Matador’s collection of nightlife guides is always growing: check out the Best of Bangkok Nightlife, the Top 10 Nightlife Spots in Mexico City, or the Top Dive Bars in Las Vegas.

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