Despite Iceland’s infamous financial collapse, things aren’t as cheap as they’ve been rumored to be. A bottle of wine can be prohibitively expensive in a restaurant and a beer will run at least $6 for a pint.

Yet the residents of Reykjavik are still out en masse, partying until the sun comes up, and you plan to join them.

But first, a little lesson on how to make the most of the rúntur without winding up bankrupt yourself.

What is Rúntur?

In the small towns (though towns might be an overstatement – most are just a sparse collection of houses) that dot Iceland’s countryside, the rúntur was devised as weekend entertainment by youth bored during the winter months of near-endless night.

The word rúntur translates to “round tour” and that’s just what it is. Teenagers cram into their cars and make laps along the local roads, stopping occasionally at a car park to socialize.

In Reykjavik, rúntur is also the name given to the weekend pub crawl, when partiers make their way around town to multiple bars and clubs. Ask any Icelander and they’ll be the first to admit – they drink a lot.

In summer they drink to celebrate the long sunny days and in winter they drink to make it through the cold, dark ones.

Straight-laced and sober during the week, Icelanders let loose on weekends. It seems that alcohol is so expensive, they figure if they are going to pay a fortune to drink, they might as well really go at it.

Preparty

Hopefully, the first stop you (along with everyone else) made in Iceland was at the Keflavik Airport Duty-Free shop. The duty-free sells wine and liquor at up to 60% less than what it costs at the city shops.

A liter of strong, smooth Reyka vodka that runs about 2100 kronur at the Duty-Free might sell for 6600 kronur in the city. If you didn’t think to stock up, you’ll need to make an afternoon stop at the Vinbudin liquor store to prepare for the evening’s festivities.

Start with dinner at home or in a restaurant, but not too early. You’ll need stamina to party until dawn so rest up and don’t begin your evening until around 9pm.

Dress

The Reykjavik rúntur is a dressy affair so look the part. For men, jeans are okay so long as they are fashionable, though slacks and a sport coat are also popular. Women’s fashions run the gamut from sexy jeans and slinky tops to trendy dresses, and it matters little what the weather calls for. It’s not unusual to see bare legs and peep-toe shoes in the dead of winter.

After dinner, head back to your hotel (or better yet, a new friend’s apartment) and start drinking. If you want to be on par with everyone else, you’ll need to have several drinks under your belt before you even think about walking out the door.

Where to go

The main rúntur activity takes place on and around Laugavegur Street.

You may be surprised to find the quiet cafés and restaurants you were in just hours earlier have now been transformed into raucous clubs and bars. For live music, head to Nasa, which hosts everything from performances by local jazz musicians to sets by famous DJs.

Feel like hitting the dance floor? Check out Sólon or B5 – both bistros by day, dance parties by night. Kaffibarinn, owned by Damon Albarn of the band Blur, is a more low-key alternative and good place to relax before heading to the more lively clubs.

What to drink

Beer was banned in Iceland until 1989, but now several local breweries produce it, and quite well actually. The most popular brands are Viking, Kaldi, Thule, and Egils. At $6-8 a pint, beer will be the cheapest option and if you’ve followed the rúntur protocol and pre-lubed a bit at home, it should be all you need. Most clubs also offer inventive cocktails and all your favorite standbys, but these libations will cost you much more.

Once you’re in the clubs, there’s no pressure to spend. It’s not unusual to nurse one or two beers all night and buying a round for friends is virtually unheard of. The more frugal partiers are also known to sneak a few nips from a pocket flask as they travel between bars.

Late night eats

As 5am approaches the clubs begin to empty and the streets fill with the well-dressed and well-tipsy. Wander down near the harbor to Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur, the most popular hot dog stand in town. Icelanders take their hot dogs seriously, making them with lamb and covering them with remoulade, ketchup, mustard, and raw and fried onions.

Wait in the long but fast-moving line and then take your bounty back to the city’s main square to join the gathered crowd. The scene is much like last call in any bar around the world: separated friends are reunited and trade stories of the night’s escapades, singles mingle and find their last-minute hookups and everyone else begins to stumble home.

In summer, the sun will be shining brightly overheard while in winter, it will be dark for several hours – just long enough to let you rest and recover for the next round.

Tomorrow, after all, is Saturday.

All photos courtesy of the author.

Community Connection

This article was originally a blog on the Matador Community. See Katie Hammel’s Original blog here. Create your own blog and profile on Matador today.

Wavves

After a bit of a meltdown at the Primavera Sound Festival in Barcelona last month, Wavves, aka 22-year-old Nathan Williams, and drummer Ryan Ulsh, have unfortunately canceled their summer European tour.

Wavves have received an intense amount of attention since only recently being thrust into the spotlight. But hype is hype and anyone who cares to separate the music from the superficial will find that Williams plays catchy California pop-punk melodies, often beneath walls of My Bloody Valentines-esque fuzzy drone.

Catch them this August when Nathan’s feeling better.

Tour dates: http://www.myspace.com/wavves

Animal Collective

Since their humble beginnings back in 2000, Animal Collective has been a band that finds music in even the most commonplace sounds.

Their sound has changed drastically over 9 years, steadily evolving into a wholly original amalgamation of electronica, live instrumentation and vocal harmonies. The band’s live show involves a continuous flow of tracks melded together, at times made indistinguishable from their original versions.

See them live and experience a highly unique band whose hypnotic, chugging beats will have you wondering why music hasn’t always been like this.

Tour dates: http://www.myspace.com/animalcollectivetheband

Sonic Youth

What can be said about Sonic Youth that hasn’t already been said? This summer sees the release of their 16th studio album, The Eternal, and their first for indie label Matador Records.

For nearly 30 years, Sonic Youth has stayed true to the musical forms and styles they’ve perfected: crazy tunings, more effect pedals than you could fit in a large warehouse, the fusing of poetry, painting and performance art into music and of course, Kim Gordon and Thurston Moore’s woozy, laid back vocals. A legendary band worth seeing again and again.

Tour dates: http://www.myspace.com/sonicyouth

Peter, Bjorn and John

For many, Peter Bjorn and John will always be “that band that sings that Young Folks song”, which is too bad because that’s a gross misunderstanding of what these three Swedish lads are capable of.

Their music surges with experimentation, at times highlighting streaks of dark humor. There really is something for everyone and anyone who cares about good music in this band’s style, and their live show should prove to be one of those pleasant surprises, a decent combination of surprises and freaky pop.

Tour dates: http://www.myspace.com/peterbjornandjohn

Common

There’s something entirely laid back and comfortable about Chicago native Common’s music. Comfort music maybe? At any rate, although recent efforts have arguably failed to capture the same level of musical continuity that made 2005’s “Be” so damn satisfying, there’s no denying that Common has the skills to rock a crowd.

His recent decision to rap on a Jonas Brothers track is more than slightly disconcerting, so maybe it’s best to see him now before he gives up his career as a hip-hop artist for life in a boy band.

Tour dates: http://www.myspace.com/common

Moderat

Moderat was formed as a side project/merger between the insanely good Modeselektor and the very good Aparat, who both happen to hail from Berlin, Germany, aka the Mecca of electronic music.

While Aparat’s style may slightly crowd out Modeselektor’s, this is still very good stuff. Not only that, but Moderat are the closest thing that anyone is going to get to seeing a Modeselektor performance this summer. This is a live show guaranteed to have its share of some of the heaviest, filling loosening beats that machines have to offer. Brace yourself.

Tour dates: http://www.myspace.com/mdslktr

Damian Marley

Simply put, Damian “Jr. Gong” Marley’s brand of reggae isn’t his father’s.

Musically more along the lines of Peter Tosh than Bob, Damian’s verses hover between ghetto nightmare and laid back images of a sun soaked ganja Eden. Despite these differences in subject matter however, the vibe of Marley’s music somehow always manages to stay the same – nice and chill.

Tour dates: http://www.myspace.com/damianmarley

Dan Deacon/No Age/Deerhunter

This is arguably the most interesting tour of the summer: three bands on stage at the same time, each taking their turn to play.

Dan Deacon alone has the proven ability to whip audiences into a seriously participatory experience, but when you bring along California punk two piece No Age – who incidentally pack the auditory punch of a five piece – as well as the psychedelic sway of Deerhunter, then you’re in for something that just might blow your mind to smithereens.

Tour dates: Dan Deacon – http://www.myspace.com/dandeacon,
No Age – http://www.myspace.com/nonoage,
Deerhunter – http://www.myspace.com/deerhunter

Radiohead

Though Thom will be performing a solo show this summer, Radiohead have five performances booked as a band.

Perhaps it’s a stretch to say that they’re actually “touring” this summer, but the way that I see it is that anytime this band collectively gather and plug in their instruments, it’s time to pay attention. If you can only see one band this summer and it can’t be Animal Collective, make it Radiohead. And if you can only see one solo artist performance this summer, make it Thom Yorke’s. You’ll thank yourself for it later. Repeatedly.

Tour dates: http://www.myspace.com/radiohead

Bon Iver

Speaking of solo performances, Bon Iver sings sweet and cosy, folky, sitting around a campfire, drinking bourbon in a log cabin, beard and flannel inducing, acoustic guitar songs.

The majority of his dates this summer are festival dates, which could really lend themselves to the performances. This is exactly the kind of music you want to be listening to outside, under a star filled, summer night sky.

Tour dates: http://www.myspace.com/boniver

Feature Photo by douglemoine

Perhaps it’s in the United States that you’ll see the most striking, well cultivated and impressive in the world.

Photos - left Blonde in Tulsa as photographed by raveller, right Brunette in Las Vegas 2003 by TedsBlog

If the now defunct Mullets Galore website proved anything, it was that we all seem to feel that the mullet is worth only our jeers, its wearer deserving to be dubbed the name of his haircut.

It was explained to me once when I laughed at the blue faced, mulleted warriors in Braveheart that the haircut had a practical application. It allowed the wearer to shirk the harmful effects of the sun to the back of his neck while being able wield a weapon with unobstructed vision. Being a diehard utilitarian, I had to take a moment to give the mullet its due before resuming my obnoxious diatribe disparaging the hairdo.

Photo: GenuineMongol

If this statue is to be believed, Ghengis Khan may be wearing a mullet under there. Could one of the fiercest warriors of all time have sported a mullet?

Below, enjoy and savor this collection of mullets from around the globe.

It is far from complete.

Sadly I was unable to find photographic evidence of the mullet in Africa, thereby rounding out my cavalcade of continents.

Photos - left Colombian extreme half mohawk-half mullet by snarkhunt, right Guatemalan mullet man with a live turkey by gringologue

Photos - left in Bangladesh, this mullet hearkens back to the ’80’s Jheri Curl mullet by bengal*foam, right Japanese mulleted mouth breather by alexdecarvalho

Photos -left Art school mulleted hipster in London by weegeebored, right Silver fox in Prague by discosour

Photos - left Clear delineation twixt front and back in Spain by JaseMan, right Nose picking mulleted hiker in Croatia by h-angele

Photos - left a most impressive mullet in Canada by D’Arcy Norman, right fresh mullet in Australia by Hyperlegs

Travel and cinema are forever linked through desires to seek, explore and above all, to experience. Below you’ll find eleven film festivals that make the circuit shine (and one that clearly doesn’t).

Photo from Cannes: zoethustra

Looking for something other than fiction? The IDFA is the largest documentary film festival in the world. In 2008 the festival sold over 150,000 tickets and screened over 309 documentaries. In addition to this there are master classes, debates and two film markets for filmmakers. All this in one of the most beautiful cities on earth.

Photo: the author

Each year more than 19,000 film industry professionals from 120 countries around the world converge on Berlin as it hosts the largest audience of any festival in the world. 4,000 journalists are accredited and more than 20,000 tickets are sold. This festival is truly a first class event that every cineaste should attend at least once in their lives (just be prepared to get up early to buy tickets for screenings).

Photo: MK Media Productions

This is the international film festival, full stop. A glitzy, grade A cinematic celebration. The only problem is that unless you’re a filmmaker or you happen to have some seriously good connections, you won’t see any films. Screenings are closed to the public, meaning that the best you can hope for is a glimpse of the stars as they walk the red carpet. Still, no film festival list is complete without a mention of Cannes.

Photo: the author

I had the displeasure of attending the 2007 IFFI and was astounded at the disrespect of the audiences and organizers toward the screenings and filmmakers. Constant disorganization mars this festival at every turn, as it strives to capture the exoticism of Cannes, yet fails to supply any of the professionalism or substance that makes a world class festival a world class festival.

My experience was of petty arguments in place of professional announcements, faulty equipment, mobile phone conversations during screenings and blatant disrespect toward invited filmmakers and dignitaries alike by members of the viewing public. This festival is a definite miss. Avoid.

Photo: Nicholas Babaian

Dealing exclusively in feature length films, the Locarno festival has established itself as an important event for auteur filmmaking. Locarno displays a wide range of films, giving the world a taste of new and influential international film work to come.

Photo: Driusha

Latin America’s finest film festival, it was first held in 1954 but because of political and social unrest, the festival did not resume on an annual schedule until 1996. A competition and a stellar line up of Latin American films are always on the menu.

This is the longest running film festival in the southern hemisphere as well as the most important film festival in Australia. Over 400 films are screened and MIFF is regularly increasing the size and notoriety of its film market.

Showcasing a wide array of Asian films and over 300 screenings from sixty-plus countries around the world, this is Asia’s largest film festival. You’ll want to devote some serious time here, particularly if you’re a fan of Asian cinema.

Photo: mockstar

Sundance is widely regarded as the place to be for independent, up and coming cinema. Many films from America and around the world make their debut here and are quickly snapped up by big and small distributors alike. This little mountain town becomes a frenzy of activity during January, despite the snow and cold. Films are screened, parties are thrown and careers are made.

Photo: jeffrey95112

Slamdance is the Sundance festival’s younger, more experimental sister. A festival run by filmmakers for filmmakers, Slamdance highlights the efforts of first time writers and directors who manage to create on very modest budgets.

Though tickets to screenings are expensive and often hard to come by, throngs of people attend TIFF each September, making it the largest public film festival in the world. Last year the festival screened 312 films from 64 countries around the world. This year looks to be even bigger now that the Canadian government has dumped $3million into the festival’s coffers.

Photo: skunks

A luxurious locale for a film festival, VIFF provides historical retrospectives, films, art, parties and everything spectacular that you’d expect from a city as unique as Venice.

Feature photo by Bitchcakes. Bill Callahan of Smog plays Music Hall Of Williamsburg on June 14th. Photo by Kirstiecat.

The Northside Festival will celebrate four days of art and music in Brooklyn, starting June 11th. It’s exactly the kind of festival that Brooklyn’rs have talked about for years but have been a too busy to take beyond the brainstorming process, due to all of the waiting for the damned F train.

The schedule is hot shit. It invades big joints (The Hold Steady @ Music Hall Of Williamsburg) and many smaller, cultish rooms (Henry Wolfe @ Coco 66). Much like South By Southwest or CMJ, rooms have been taken over by hipster imprints, zines and radio stations. The talent that comes as a result is on the edge of something – we won’t know of what until next year, or until some blogger gives it a cutesy name.

Northside has also taken care to include the best of Brooklyn’s blowing-up art scene. As with anything in the borough, tastes about what is ‘art’ and what is not will differ.

Photo of Schipper’s “The Slow Inevitable
Death of American Muscle” by libbyrosof

Like, for example, Jonathan Schipper’s “The Slow Inevitable Death of American Muscle”, described as a “live, head-on collision which takes place in slow motion over the course of the exhibition.”

Be sure to check out Northside’s schedule for a full list of shows and events.

All photos and video courtesy of COLD_ERIN

Not that Burning Couch is a reflection of Burning Man, but the inspiration for this unique CouchSurfing event is clear. On June 20th at 19:04, on the winter’s solstice (which the organizers point out “falls again on the shortest day this year”), couch surfers will convene on a remote piece of land in Victoria, Australia for 24 hours, reveling in all that couch surfers the world over stand for.

There will be music; there will be dancing; there will be free-spirited travelers; there will probably be some paint; and there will most certainly be a big fire.

The brainchild(ren)

I met up with one of the creators of Burning Couch, Erin, at a cafe in St. Kilda. She goes by the handle of COLD_ERIN on the CouchSurfing website, although this name doesn’t reflect her personality at all. She brought along her boyfriend Alisdair, who is also a CouchSurfing member. The three of us shot the breeze, comfortably learning a bit about each other, as you do.

Not only is Erin one of the brainchilds of Burning Couch (she thought this beauty up with a friend, fellow CouchSurfing member Craig), but she is also the grand host; the property in rural Victoria where the event is taking place belongs to her parents and is where she grew up.

She tells me a little about last year’s event: About 40 people attended by her count, although the number may be considerably higher. She admits many people arrived in the dark so it was hard to see. Even though it drizzled on them most of the time, it was still a big success and Erin thinks it will be no different this year.

The reason behind it all

The CouchSurfing group for the event says it all — manifest courtesy of Craig. Here are some excerpts for your reading pleasure:

Burning Couch is because throughout history, pre-history and even the bit before that, the ancient Hosts burned unworthy couches to encourage contact with benign spirits and their good references surfing the ether to seek a temporary shelter or home (three day stay max, no pets).

It also tells the history of couch surfing in the Southern Hemisphere and why Northern Hemispherians make their way to Australia frequently:

Indeed the word itself is derived from an early type of ancient wooden couch. ‘Hemi’, meaning half, and ‘Sphere’ referring [to] the circular aspect of a log, and ‘Southern’ meaning to lie on or with the bottom part (rather than using the very heavy and possibly fatal top part).

So Southern Hemisphere literally means ‘to lie on the bottom half of a log’…And as the term ‘Northern Hemisphere’ itself indicates they got the wrong bit of log.

And the focus of Burning Couch?

Burning Couch does not have a single focus or even as yet a single couch. Burning Couch will be subject to participants involvement and include community, artwork, absurdity, decommodification, revelry and several other long words downloaded from the net.

Since the time of that writing, though, sacrificial couches have volunteered themselves to go up in flame and bring good fortune to all the couch surfers (and hosts) of the world.

Come one, come all…but come in respect

If you’re a couch surfer, or friends with a couch surfer and, more importantly, abide by the creeds and mottos of the couch surfer — that is, respect, open mind, good will, honesty, and tolerance, among others — you are welcome to partake in the festivities.

But if you like to cause trouble, break glass, damage trees, pee in dams, harm animals, and tell racist and sexist jokes, then please…stay at home.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

If you can’t make it to Australia but are planning on attending Burning Man, make sure to read the following articles:

The First-Timer’s Guide to Participating at Burning Man

13 of the Coolest Art Installations at Burning Man

24 Hours at Burning Man

Couch surfers are encouraged to read 10 Ways to Improve Your Couchsurfing Odds.

Sometimes it’s all about not giving a shit. The video is slow at first, but watch the gradual build of the dance party’s momentum. This guy has done this before.

Feature photo: cfarivar