This and all photos are courtesy and property of the author.

Hong Kong is unfortunately becoming increasingly expensive, but the best food is the cheap stuff that can be found in little, street corner dives. These are my favourite scuzzy, little joints in Hong Kong.

Restaurants

Chungking Mansion is said to be the dodgiest place in Hong Kong, and who knows, maybe it is.

Photo: author

But it definitely isn’t dodgy compared to most European countries and I’ve had no problems going in there on my own. Just be strong and don’t let the pushy men force you into buying a handbag or watch. The first two floors are shops that sell pretty much everything under the sun, including some incredible food.

My favourite little hole-in-the-wall there is Butt Food Centre, and not just for its name. It’s not much to look at, but I have never had a finer curry than in this little joint. And it’s dead cheap too. Whatever you order, make sure you get a marsala chai with it.
Butt Food Centre Shop 21G/F
Chungking Mansions
36-44 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, MTR exit D.

Hau Fook Street is a non-descript street in Tsim Sha Tsui that happens to host a whole slew of cheap, Asian restaurants with Vietnamese, Thai, Cantonese, Japanese and Taiwanese fare to choose from.

Surely the cheapest sushi in HK, this conveyor belt restaurant offers $15HKD ($1.93 USD) sashimi. And no, you will not get food poisoning.
Ichiban, 3 Hau Fook Street

Photo: author

This is a dessert parlour that whips up crazy ice cream creations that look a bit like driftwood.
China Town, 11 Hau Fook Street

Ok, so I’m cheating here because it’s not technically on Hau Fook Street, but it joins onto it with another street. It’s easiest to just walk down to the end of Hau Fook Street and badda bing, badda boom, yummy bubble tea on your lefthand side.
Easy Drink Easy Go, the end of Hau Fook Street on the left (just after 9 Hau Fook Street).

Hau Fook Street – MTR Tsim Sha Tsui, exit B2

Nothing warms you up better on a cold winter day than a steaming bowl of snake soup- yum yum yum. At $60 ($7.72 USD) a bowl, it’s not that cheap, but how many opportunities do you get to try snake? Plus, this place is eternally packed, which is always a good sign.
Ser Wong Fun Restaurant, 30 Cochrane Street, Central, MTR Central exit D2

Street Food Stalls- xiao shi dian (小食店)

I love this place. They do all the usuals and they make the best milkshakes ever,

Photo: author

and at only $9 ($1.16) what’s not to love? Sadly they shut at about 11PM, which means it’s not an option for a post-Lockhart Road drunken snack.
Ada Snacks, 2 O’Brien Road with Lockhart Road, MTR Wan Chai, exit C.

This place’s specialty is the best deep fried squid I’ve ever had.

Photo: author

$15 ($1.93 USD) might seem a bit steep for street food, but it is worth every greasy, spicy penny. This is oily, deep-fried goodness at its finest. Get served in the true HK fashion, with wonderfully brash staff, ever ready to scream at you in Cantonese. Expect lots of shouting and gestures and woe betide anyone who tries to take a photo.
Chez Jia – 佳記 (jiā jì), corner of Sai Yeung Choi Street South with Dundas Street, Mong Kok, MTR Mong Kok exit D3

This venue’s greatness is due to its location on goldfish street. Oh the irony- it’s delicious!
Prosperous – 生財 (shēng cái), 30-32A Tung Choi Street with Nullah Road, MTR Prince Edward, exit B2

One last thing

While writing this I discovered that two of my favourite xiao shi dians had closed down, one in Tsim Sha Tsui (TST) and the other in Central. They were both always full, so I have no idea how they went under, but the one in TST is now a Swatch shop. Disgusting. We need to work together to save the crappy food stall! Take to the streets and eat!
________________________________________________________________________

*The Chinese I’ve given you is a mixture of Cantonese and Mandarin. I know that Hong Kong is technically Cantonese only, but if you say it in Mandarin you will have no problems.

Community Connection

Thinking of going to China? Be prepared by boning up on the Chinese Government Manual: How to Beat up Street Vendors, How to Learn Chinese: Student Versus Teacher, and be ready for love when you least expect it by checking out Matador Classic I Was on the Rebound With a Chinese Clown.

K.E.L.P. stands for Kultura En La Pared (Kulture On The Wall). It’s my pseudonym. I’ve loved colors from an early age, and especially the political murals that started to pop up in Chile in the ’80s and ‘90s . They impressed me with thier vivid, saturated colors, and occupied vast surfaces.

Graffiti started for me by by watching first. I’d observe graffiti writers paint and my love for the art grew fast in Plaza Italia, Santiago’s downtown area, where the one and only graffiti shop was (Otra Vida).

I followed the wave of graffiti out of Santiago and into other cities within Chile and then outside of South America, and I painted with friends and slowly came to know many great people who were also creating and developing the art. This pushed me and I grew and learned within the medium that has become my life’s passion.

Right now I am living in Europe, immersing myself in new experiences, learning and observing. I sustain myself by painting and creating and selling my work to companies. My love for the art has enabled me to be independent and travel the world.

1.Wall painted with my friends Stik and Blok in Santiago de Chile. We just improvised, observed the environment and painted the whole weekend.

2.Painting in München, Germany at a old factory. Loomit manages this place and gave me the chance to leave my mark. The wall already had the yellow part painted so I improvised with other colors and related München with Santiago. The yellow is the beer.

3.KELP Tag in Valparaiso, Chile. Just trying out a new color. Florecent green (it’s not florescent at night).

4.Wall painted in Concepción, Chile. I was invited by a friend with 3 other painters (Bufox, Rio, Deow) I painted my part to make it relate to the fishing boats from this big harbor/port in the southern part of Chile. It is my favourite region with marvellous landscapes, volcanos, lakes and a flora/fauna that lblows you away.

5.Wall painted in La Reina (Santiago, Chile). It represents the subway system in Santiago, especially the line I had to take every day to University during my studies.

6.Wall painted in Silz, Austria with the German graffiti legend Loomit. This wall is big, like 20mts x 4.5mts. I did all the letters and some color landscapes. Loomit did a very beautiful bird and german pixos. Nice weekend with the whole town visiting us, chatting, inviting us for lunch/dinner and a party.

7. I painted this in Santiago de Chile in January, 2010. It represents some travels I made my travels through Spain, Iceland and Scottland. Water (blue), The Bull (black) and the landscapes of Spain. Painted in five days with the best radio station in Chile as ambiente. Co-creator: Radio Corazón!

8. Painted in January 2010 in Bellavista, a little sector in Santiago de Chile. Again the birds were everywhere.

9.Wall painted in München, Germany in November 2009 at -15° C temperatures. Loomit painted next to the wall which was also my first wall with him. It represents birds, lots of birds that were there (it is a Metro Station) while we were painting. Birds observe and have a global concept of what happens below, the same as graff writers. We observe!

10.Graffiti event in Concepción, Chile (Concegraff it was called). My part is the two red surfaces. One is the Trauco and the other explains the theme of the Event. Identidad de Origen means
Origen Identity and refers, in Chilean history, to our ancient people and indians. Trauco is a myth that comes from Chiloé and is a small character that lives in the woods. The legend goes that every time a girl would get lost in the woods, Trauco would get her pregnant. The story varies because it is a myth, but everytime a girls gets pregnant in an unexpectedly we say the Trauco was there.

11. A legendary wall, maybe one of the coolest because it shows and explains graffiti on trains and how it all started.

12.Work at a Puma store. Painted in 2009.

Comunity Connection

Want to see the oldest Graffiti in the world? Before you plan your next trip, you might want to check out 5 Best Places To See Ancient Rock Art.

If you’ve got a passion for art for and by the people, be sure to swing by Matador’s Street Art Focus Page where all our articles on street art are corraled into one place for your clicking and viewing pleasure.

Photos by author.

Grasshoppers

I decided to start my culinary experience on the most famous of bug street food, the grasshopper. Damn, these guys are huge! Not wanting to bite one in half, I decided to shove it all in my mouth at once. I failed, and its legs stuck out of my lips. Not a good look.

Grasshopper

The grasshopper’s upper torso and legs was extremely crunchy, while its body was quite soft. It was kind of like eating a whole prawn, minus any nice taste. Most notable for the contrasting texture of soft or crunchy body parts.

Feeling: Dread. Comparative Insect Rating: 2/10.

The author at work.

Silkworm

These guys looked like short, fat caterpillars and one easily fit into my mouth in one shot. Chewing caused it to break down into dust, coating the inside of my mouth. It was like like I’d just eaten a moth. A big swig of beer saved the day.

Feeling: Resentful. Comparative Insect Rating: 3/10.

Mole Crickets

Another grasshopper-like insect to eat. I popped one into my mouth and found it to be slightly crunchy, yet eating it was not anywhere near as unpleasant as the last two. I grabbed three more and ate them with the same not-so-bad result. It had only a little taste (which tasted like, well, a bug).

Feeling: Encouraged. Comparative Insect Rating: 6/10

Ant Salad.

Bombay Locusts

These fellas had been fried and served with some sort of leaf, hopefully to give some sort of improvement in taste. Popping a few in my mouth, I found them crunchy, salty and entirely inoffensive. Maybe I was getting used to eating these sorta things? Tasting salty and a little insect-y, they washed down well with my more-than-handy beer.

Feeling: Relaxed. Comparative Insect Rating: 8/10.

Bamboo Worms.

Ants

These are not the little black ants that crawl on your feet and bite you for no reason, but larger ones with wings. They’re served up in some sort of salad that’s overdosed with chopped lemongrass.

A spoonful of the salad unsurprisingly tasted like a whole heap of lemongrass. What’s the point of an ant salad if it just tastes like lemongrass? I guess it’s better than making a salad that tastes of ants. Trying a few lone ants, they tasted like a whole lot of nothing.

Feeling: Bored. Comparative Insect Rating: 5/10.

Bamboo Worms

Bamboo worms were short and white, looking similar to a caterpillar missing a few legs. They had a soft shell, not too crunchy, and thankfully very little inside it. They collapsed in my mouth, leaving a pleasant savoury taste, which went well with beer. Side armed with a few cool Singha’s, I could easily have finished a small bag of these.

Feeling: Cheerful. Comparative Insect Rating: 10/10.

Water Locusts.

Crickets

Urgh, crickets, just like the ones I used to squash when I was young. They were instantly unappealing to me. The pub soundtrack ticked over to “Help” by the Beatles, and I wonder if the DJ was secretly reading my mind.

The cricket’s body flaked when chewed, spreading what I picture to be wings, legs and pieces of head through my mouth. I resorted to the beer solution.

Feeling: Despondent. Comparative Insect Rating: 4/10.

Giant Water Bug.

Giant Water Bug

This water bug was indeed giant, quite possibly the biggest bug I’d seen in my life. I was advised not to eat the whole lot (it was big enough to make a cutlet) and instead took off the wings, tore open the body and ate the gooey insides. Wonderful.

Opening the torso, I used my teeth to draw out what was inside, doing my best not to think about what I was about to ingest. The experience of eating the insides of a 10cm insect was as horrible as it sounds. Funnily enough, the squidgy body contents had a taste that was not entirely foul.

Feeling: Surprised. Comparative Insect Rating: 5/10.

Playing with my food.

Scorpion

I left this one until last, in the hopes that somehow it would revive itself and walk off the table. That way I wouldn’t have to eat it, and the pub staff could deal with a live scorpion while I watched what happened.

I wished I’d done a little research on how on earth to eat these one of these things. I pulled off the sting and decided to eat the body. It is truly horrid. The outer skin was tough and there didn’t seem to be anything inside.

Chewing it gave no immediate reward, then a horrid noxious taste filled my mouth and thoughts began to fill my head. Was I eating the part of the body that has venom inside? Would my travel insurance cover intentional ingestion of venom? I cursed myself for not reading past the second paragraph of my insurance fine print, then spit it out and threw the rest of the scorpion away. My tongue was black and this time beer wouldn’t remove the taste.

Feeling: Relieved, but ready to spew. Comparative Insect Rating (and yes, I’m aware that a scorpion is an arachnid): 0/10.

Photo of a bhang shop in Jaisalmer, Rajasthan: Tom Maisey, Feature Photo of a guest house in Manali: ElPablo!

You don’t need to be a hesher for the job, but it probably helps to have a handle on the language. MatadorNights wants to bring our readers solid information about marijuana around the world. What are the laws? Is it safe to smoke out? How do you find some? You get the picture.

As a general guide, please see this post. It may be a little lackluster, but it was written by someone who rarely indulges (that would be me), so if you can tackle this topic with enthusiasm and aplomb, please send a sample by selecting a country and writing a blurb about the marijuana experience there. Paste it into the body of an email and send it on over to kate [at] matadornetwork.com with the subject line: Ganganator

The articles will be broken up by regions, so we’ll do Europe, Eastern Europe, Middle East, Central America, South America, Northern Africa, West Africa, and so on. We can throw in country specific posts also. Want to tackle state laws in the U.S.? Great. The most important thing is factual information about the laws and the marijuana culture in each article.

There may be more than one worthy candidates, and in that case we’ll take this on a pitch to pich basis.

If you can battle the anti-motivational syndrome and bust out two of these a month, that would be ideal. Each article will pay $25 via PayPal.

In case you’re curious, MatadorNetwork doesn’t publish under pseudonyms. If that crushes it for you, sorry.

Cookie. All photos by author.

It’s been voted the World’s Third Most Livable City and is as diverse with its sub-cultures as it is with different drinking establishments. With the competition between watering holes being so high, you’ll find it difficult to find a place in Melbourne that you disagree with, or find without having to venture down alleyways and corridors.

Cookie

The whiff of subtle (yet pleasant) Thai dishes engulfs your right nostril and the banter of the crowd hijacks your left ear. The Cookie’s cocktail list is elaborate, the top-range beer is book-sized, and the presentation is even more impressive.

Even on busy nights, bartenders will create lavish cocktails without breaking a sweat or aimlessly look for an abstract liqueur up the ladder.

Rooftop Bar

While the name gives away its floor level, it’s in the same building as the Cookie, which saves travel time and grants a magnificent view of the city. Deck chairs surround the umbrellas protecting you from UV rays and the bar’s plastic cups remove the issue of falling objects journeying seven flights to ground level.

Rooftop Bar.

It’s a relaxed atmosphere with music that won’t blast away conversation, as well as a perfect way to soak in the sun when Melbourne allows it. Unlike many of the world’s other rooftop bars, most nights the turns into an outdoor cinema.

Penny Blue

This small but elegant bar is hidden down an alleyway in the city central. It’s a sophisticed spot with staff who know their drinks. Microbrews found around Victoria state and Australia are frequently hand-delivered fresh from the brewery, and lavish couches fit for an overzealous Queen’s posse keep your derriere comfy.

The Croft Institute

Melbourne’s alleyway reputation gets a full screening when you look down a zigzag of alleyways to The Croft Institute. Initially a mental institution, the building has become a themed spectacle.

The first floor is reminiscent of a high school science class with luminescent beakers, test tubes and mind-numbing shots being served in syringe capsules that squirt into your mouth. Upstairs bathrooms have come out of a 1950’s detective film.

At the top is the gymnasium equipped with a dance floor, wooden seating, house music and real grass on the bar, ready for your stumbling fingers to pat and gawk at. It’s well worth the search around the city and a memorable place to drink.

Belgium Beer Cafe.

The Esplanade

This musical house has survived names big and small. The Esplanade is in the perfect position to offer a romantic sunset, while the rock bands inside blast away every night. You couldn’t find a better place near the beach for anyone to feel comfortable, nor a more eclectic mix of music.

The initial darkness of the place may be off-putting at first but for music lovers this is the place for real, raw and most importantly live music.

Belgium Beer Café

Imagine the outdoor setting of a beerhaus in Germany and you have the Belgium Beer Cafe. The pub’s inside is a homely oak feel, but when it’s warm and sunny you’re best enjoying your Belgium beer in the expansive outside area, surrounded by the trees and benches.

There’s an array of over 100 imported brews (like the delicious Kriek) and grub to keep your palette satisfied.

Madame Brussels

You’d swear that this bar is an advertisement for 1950’s tennis wear or an Alice in Wonderland tea party with the elaborate furniture catering to those wishing to feel like a high-class citizen of the past. Fancy and refreshing cocktails are served for ’singles’ (for two) and ‘doubles’ (four), tempting enough to have for yourself. Selling decorated cupcakes, friendly service and a stylish list of wines is a bonus for the bar with a view.

Section 8.

The Local

On the slight outskirts of St Kilda and Chapel Street is a bar that has the utmost respect for beer. The stage hosts an array of entertainment every night, surrounded by couches to soothe any traveller’s mind from strain. The comfort of the restaurant upstairs and outdoor area makes this warm and wood-finished pub a great place, rain or shine.

La La Land

It’s bigger than you think, but your first impression of Chapel Street’s La La Land is ‘cozy’. The nice walkway to the bar passes the funky, cushy seating and a fireplace. Drink specials are on every day and the staff are always running around with friendly banter and offering seated service, when time permits.

Section 8

Section 8’s origin came from the idea that there’s more potential for a small parking bay down a tiny alleyway than it just being littered with metal with wheels. Replacing it with a larger hunk of metal in the form of a shipping container, Section 8 in the city central is hidden from the public eye and is also one of Melbourne’s simplest and best.

Start in the afternoon without sun glare and admire the Asian artwork and lanterns on the brick wall as you sink down a longneck beer or a mixer in a non-pretentious environment. You’ll want to keep this place to yourself.

Community Connection

In love with Oz? Be sure to check out our Matador hub for all things Australian. If you’re just into bar culture, feel free to peruse our pieces about the world’s best rooftop bars and the top dive bars in Las Vegas. If that isn’t enough, you might get a snicker out of where to find ten of the world’s farthest flung gay bars.

Anthrax and Public Enemy

Bring The Noise
Something about being at work for way too long right now but listening to this song makes everything ok.

Jurassic 5 and Nelly Furtado

Thin Line
I like that this happened before she blew up…Canadian Maneater.

Kylie Minogue & Nick Cave

Where The Wild Roses Grow
If you’ve ever fantasized about western romance.

Kid Cudi, MGMT, Ratatat

Pursuit of Happiness
They are all on the moon.

MSTRKRFT featuring John Legend

Heartbreaker
I expected a train wreck but it’s really, really nice actually.

Santigold, Strokes, Pharrell (Converse)

My Drive Thru
I dance to this by myself.  Frequently.

Dizzee Rascal + Calvin Harris

Dance Wiv Me and Holiday
If you fancy Brits.

Propeller Heads + Shirley Bassey

History Repeating
You might recognize her voice.

N.A.S.A. featuring David Byrne, Chuck D, Ras Congo, Seu Jorge, & Z-Trip

Money DJ/producer duo, N.A.S.A., put together an entire of album of original tracks with a star studded line up. This is just a glimpse.

Massive Attack+Tracy Thorn

Protection and Better Things
You might cry.

Robert Plant and Alison Kraus

Raising Sand
It won 5 Grammys.  You and your parents can agree on something to listen to.

Metallica and the San Francisco Symphony Orchestra

Nothing Else Matters
This one made me cry.

George Michael and Aretha Franklin

Knew You Were Waiting for Me
Two queens of pop?

George Michael & Mary J Blige

As
Two queens of pop covering a king of pop (Stevie Wonder)?! Bad joke.

Michael Jackson and Paul McCartney

The Girl is Mine
“The doggone girl is mine.”

Michael Jackson and Janet Jackson

Scream
RIP MJ; Janet looks hot in the video.  Wrong to say those things in the same sentence?

David Bowie and Queen

Under Pressure
Bowie’s first released collaboration, it debuted on Queen’s album and Vanilla Ice got rich off it.

David Bowie and Bing Crosby

Little Drummer Boy
What the hell did they talk about when they weren’t on set?

Mick Jagger and David Bowie

Dancing In The Street
I know what they talked about off set.

Peter Tosh and Mick Jagger

Walk And Don’t Look Back
Please check out Mick’s moves in this video.

Willie Nelson and Snoop Dogg

My Medicine
These guys had plenty in common backstage too.

Beck & Charlotte Gainsbourg

Heaven Can Wait
Great artist + great artist = Great song.

Screamin’ Jay Hawkins and Gainsbourg

Constipation Blues
Happens to everyone.

Loretta Lynn & Jack White

Portland, Oregon
Just cool.

Bob Dylan and Johnny Cash

Girl From The North Country Fair
Nothing to say here.

Jerry Garcia and David Grisman

Shady Grove
Phenomenal album.

Jimi Hendrix and BB King

Slow Blues
Album – The Kings Jam

Ali Farka Toure & Toumani Diabate

Kala Djula
Two African musical legends on one album, In the Heart of the Moon

Toumani Diabaté & Björk

If you find a good recording of this please post a response with it.

Otis Redding and Carla Thomas

Tramp
I’d rather be “country” than a tramp.

Elvis Costello & Burt Bacharach

God Give Me Strength
You’d be surprised how many people told me about this duo.

Pete Rock & C. L. Smooth

They Reminisce Over You
T.R.O.Y.

Amy Winehouse and Ghostface

You Know I’m No Good
He is way more well behaved than her.

Mark Ronson and Santogold

Pretty Green
Ronson’s album Version is full of these.

Nickodemus and Jay Rodriguez

Funky in the Middle
Shake a leg.

Kelis featuring Andre 3000

Millionaire
I say this to mom a lot…

Major Lazer

Pon de Floor
Super producer duo Diplo and Switch = Major Lazer.  Vybz Kartel gets in on this one too.