Matador Nights » Valerie Ng

What to Eat in Philadelphia Besides Cheesesteak

Valerie Ng — Tue, 25 May 2010 03:38:44 +0000

Photos by author.

Philadelphia may be home to the cheesesteak, but you should take a break from comparing Pat’s with Geno’s and Jim’s to sample what this food-loving city has to offer.

Huitlacoche Quesadillas

Even though I’m from California, and lived within a half-hour drive of the Mexican border for 4 years, I’d never tried those quesadillas filled with corn smut until I encountered them at La Lupe, located in of all places, the Italian Market on 9th Street.

These days, the market is becoming increasingly Mexican, with Spanish music blaring from radios and restaurants offering tastes from south of the border. Just down the street from shops selling fresh pasta and cured meats, you can find tacos and quesadillas to rival any found in Southern California.

Hand-drawn Noodles

The Chinese have had a presence in Philadelphia since 1860, and today its Chinatown is the third-largest in the United States. An ethnic quarter of that size usually means that there are a good number of authentic restaurants to savor, including Nan Zhou Hand Drawn Noodle House, specializing in China’s famous hand-stretched pasta.

While you won’t see the chef stretching and flinging dough at this low-key restaurant, the noodles are nice and chewy, and the egg and vegetable option, at $4 for a generously portioned bowl, makes for a refreshing, bargain-priced meal.

Malaysian food

Philadelphia’s Asian food scene isn’t limited to the cuisine of China. Philly is home to a number of Malaysian restaurants, which offer tropical, spiced up dishes like mango chicken and Indian mee goreng. If you’ve been sampling cheesesteaks, you’ll probably need a break from the cheez whiz.

Banana Leaf in Chinatown is one popular and inexpensive choice, while Aqua, a stone’s throw from the site where the founding fathers declared their independence, offers a more chic setting.

Ice Cream

I’m convinced that the best Italian-style gelato to be found outside Italy is in Philadelphia, at Capogiro Gelato’s three downtown locations. The Thai coconut milk flavor is probably the most heavenly I’ve ever tasted, although the fruit flavors are very nice as well, especially since many are locally sourced from Lancaster County farms.

But if it’s an all-American scoop of vanilla or cookies and cream that you’re looking for, Bassett’s Ice Cream has been serving up classic favorites from behind its historic counter in the Reading Terminal Market since 1893. If you want to be decadent and go for a hot fudge sundae or banana split, Franklin Fountain, though less than a decade old, successfully recreates the old-fashioned ice cream parlor and soda fountain experience.

Water Ice

Unlike the coarse icy texture of the snow cones you grew up with, water ice, Philly speak for Italian ice, is smooth and fruity, which makes for a refreshing way to cool off on a hot, humid Philadelphia summer day. There are a number of stands and shops selling the popular treat around the city, including Rita’s Water Ice and Philadelphia Water Ice franchises.

Israeli food

Yet another international cuisine is on display in one of the city’s most renowned restaurants. Zahavcelebrates the Israeli heritage of the head chef, and does so ingeniously. It’s best to come with friends so you can sample an array of the delicious Mediterranean-style small plates, like hummus, house-made merguez, and Cypriotic sheep’s milk cheese, all prepared to perfection.

There’s not a single falafel to be found in this classy restaurant.

Brunch

Brunch is my favorite meal, and it’s hard to pass up a good brunch spot. Sabrina’s Cafe, with two locations, is a local favorite. The menu is extensive, filled with an enticing array of sweet and savory morning dishes like stuffed caramelized challah French toast with vanilla bean maple syrup and the egg white frittata with turkey bacon, spinach, tomatoes, and provolone.

Vegetarians are easily accommodated here, and those who feel left out of the city’s cheesesteak craze can consider trying Sabrina’s meatless version made with seitan.

Brunch can also be found inside the famed Reading Terminal Market. The Dutch Eating Place serves up Amish breakfasts, while Down Home Diner, evocative of the classic diners of the 1950s, has a southern flavor. Both locations offer scrapple, a local invention of pork scraps and trimmings combined with cornmeal, flour, and spices formed into a mush.

Community Connection

Matador is seeped with writing about food and travel. Spend a little time here and you’ll realize that we’re capable about writing about everything from bread sculpted like body parts, to New York’s best desserts to juicy burger porn.

Inside a Chinese Bakery, from Buns to Tarts

Valerie Ng — Wed, 23 Dec 2009 14:07:00 +0000

Valerie Ng loves macaroons, almond croissants, and raspberry tarts from a French pastry shop, but when she’s looking for treats that are light and not too sweet, she heads for the Chinese bakeries.

Daan Taat

Daan Taat, aka Egg Custard Tarts

For me, one of the sweetest things in life is biting into a daan taat fresh from the oven, feeling the warm egg custard melt as its delicate, flaky crust crumbles in my mouth. While it’s traditionally yellow, some New York bakeries will offer tarts made exclusively with egg whites and in some cases, with papaya or green tea flavorings.

Most bakeries also carry Portuguese-style egg tarts, similar to pasteis de nata, which have the look and consistency of crème brûlée.

Sesame Balls

Sesame Balls

One of my guilty pleasures are sesame balls: deep fried, sesame-specked glutinous rice balls filled with red bean or lotus paste. Crispy, greasy, and gooey, they’re a popular Chinese New Year treat, though they’re available in bakeries year-round.

Cha Siu Bao

Cha Siu Bao, aka Roast Pork Buns

Those looking for a more savory option will enjoy cha siu bao, or roast pork buns. These come either steamed or baked. The steamed variety are white, very light and cake-like; the baked ones are browned and topped with a sticky glaze.

Either way, the buns are filled with a helping of diced roast pork belly, better known as cha siu, in a sweet sauce. Occasionally, you may come across versions of this bun with a chicken filling.

PIneapple Buns

Pineapple Buns

These buns contain no pineapple. They get their name from the checkered yellow crust designed to make them resemble the outside of the tropical fruit. Even if the yellow crust looks nice, it’s not good for you – pineapple buns are considered one of the most unhealthy snack foods in Hong Kong.

I enjoy them plain, without filling, but some versions are filled with a bean paste, a custard, or even barbecued meat.

Paper Wrapped Cake

Sometimes called cupcakes, these are very light sponge cakes baked in paper wrappers. They’re perfect if you only want a little snack, especially if you’re stuffed from dim sum or chow fun.

Cocktail Buns

These pastries usually come in pairs. They were created as a way of using up leftover buns by mashing them with sugar and shredded coconut and stuffing them inside freshly-made buns.

Moon Cakes

Moon cakes, traditionally eaten during the Autumn Moon Festival in September, are an acquired taste. These dense lotus paste and egg yolk-filled cakes are very rich, so it’s best to slice them up and share them with others.

Specialty versions of this pastry are filled with flavored pastes such as pineapple or green tea.

Where To Eat Vegetarian in Buenos Aires

Valerie Ng — Fri, 11 Dec 2009 15:48:28 +0000

All photos courtesy of the author.

Finding a meatless meal can be a daunting prospect in one of the world’s most carnivorous countries. Valerie Ng shows you that it is possible to find a vegetable in the City Of Meat.

Granix

Indulge in all the meatless goodies you want, from hot and cold entrees to fresh salads, juices and desserts, for one fixed price. I managed to pass up this tenedor libre during my time here, but my parents stopped by when they were in town recently and were satisfied with their experience.

Take-out is cheaper than eating in, so you can take your meal to enjoy at the nearby Plaza de Mayo.

1st floor, Avenida Florida 165

Pizzeria Guerin

Fast food, Porteno style. The “muzzarella” is the safest bet at Buenos Aires’ most popular pizzeria, which has been in business since the 1930s. The pizzas here are fairly simple, usually with just one topping, and a crispy crust.

If you like onions, go for the fugazza. Most customers just come in for a slice or two and eat them standing at the bar.

Pizzeria Guerin, Avenida Corrientes 1368

Olsen

Even if you’re not a vegetarian, you should try the goat cheese ravioli at Olsen, one of the city’s top restaurants, because it is probably the most divine dish to be found in all of Argentina. In fact, after all that meat and pizza, you’re probably going to be jonesing for something light.

As a starter, you’re presented with a small assortment of bagels. The creamy ravioli arrives on an asymmetrical plate, topped with watercress, drizzled with a berry sauce, and a couple of blackberries thrown in for good measure. It easily dispelled any preconceptions I’d had of the Argentines not putting any care into creating meals that didn’t originally possess four legs.

Even if this restaurant is known for its Sunday brunch and 60 varieties of vodka, but the ravioli is the dish by which I remember Olsen.

Olsen, Gorriti 5870

Bio

Bio is one of Buenos Aires’ most well-known vegetarian restaurants, where beef and chicken are replaced by house-made seitan. All ingredients used here are organic, and grown or produced in Argentina.

The chefs are quite creative with their menu, with dishes like quinoa risotto with goat cheese and mushrooms and mustard tofu with spicy vegetables and yamani rice. I ate here on two occasions, sampling the risotto, seitan and vegetable curry (which was basically a stir-fry with curry sauce), as well as a slice of chocolate cake with sesame ice cream.

The restaurant also doubles as an almacen, so you can pick up some of its organic products to enjoy at home.

Bio, Humboldt 2199

Artemisia

Along with Bio, Artemisia is another one of the city’s choice vegetarian restaurants. It’s actually not 100% meat-free, since there are some fish items on the menu, but the menu is largely vegetarian.

All meals start off with homemade whole wheat bread and butternut squash spread. I ordered the polenta bruschetta topped with tomatoes and greens, which was so sumptuous that I didn’t need any fleshy accompaniments. Oh, and the veggies were definitely a far cry from the wilted lettuce and canned mushrooms I’d had elsewhere in the country.

Artemisia, 3877 Cabrera, Palermo

La Puerto Rico

This cafe, a less touristy and less pretentious alternative to Cafe Tortoni, is best known for its Saturday night tango shows and for being the setting of a number of Spanish movies. In addition to coffee, tea, and pastries, the menu is filled with Argentine mainstays like grilled meat, pasta, and pizzas.

The one item that caught my eye was a soy version of a milanesa patty topped with caprese – tomato and mozzerella – and a side of pumpkin puree. I would never have expected to find such a dish in Argentina – at least not in an old-school establishment like La Puerto Rico – but felt compelled to order it just for the novelty. It certainly wasn’t as juicy as its meaty counterpart, but it certainly added some variety to my dining experiences in South America.

La Puerto Rico, Adolfo Alsina 416

Ceviche

If you happen to be a pesco-vegetarian, this is a great place to sample Peruvian specialties as well as sushi. It won’t take long to notice that in addition to vegetables, this is a capital city that is largely devoid of ethnic cuisine as well as seafood. There are a few salad options if you refuse to eat any type of animal flesh.

Even though I was a bit flesh-weary, I couldn’t bring myself to pass up on a seafood stew of salmon, shrimp, and mussels with rice and beans. Argentines are known for being seafood-phobic but if they ever had the chance to taste the fish here, they’d know what it should taste like.

Ceviche, Costa Rica 5644, Palermo

Community Connection

Be sure to check out Matador’s favorite spots in Buenos Aires, meatless or otherwise. Our guide to taking the bus in Buenos Aires is a must if you plan to take mulit-wheeled public transport.

A Dessert Lover’s Guide to New York City

Valerie Ng — Fri, 27 Nov 2009 01:21:49 +0000

Magnolia’s famous. Photo: loop_oh

Valerie Ng recently spent a month in New York nursing her sweet tooth. Here are some of the most memorable spots on her dessert tour.

Van Leeuwen Artisan Ice Cream

Unlike most ice cream vendors in New York, the Van Leeuwen ice cream truck is not stationary. It’s hard to predict where and when you’ll find their artisan ice cream made from local dairy.

As soon as I spotted the truck in Williamsburg, I promptly walked over and ordered a small cup of strawberry ice cream. The ingredients of each flavor have been scoured from the world over to ensure the highest quality, so even otherwise ordinary flavors like strawberry or vanilla are produced to the purest form.

Van Leeuwen Ice Cream Truck, location varies.

Babycakes NYC

If you want to gorge on decadent desserts like frosting-filled sandwich cookies dipped in chocolate chips, and get away with it, this is the place to do it. Babycakes NYC uses no refined sugars in its products, nor does it use any dairy or, for some items, gluten.

Black Sesame Ice Cream. Photo by: craige

Since it opened in 2005, it’s gained popularity with vegans, the allergy-sensitive, and the weight-conscious for its delicious cupcakes, brownie bites, and banana bread. Butter, eggs, and sugar are replaced by coconut oil and agave sweetener, which result in high prices but as founder Erin McKenna will reassure you, the healthier ingredients will save you from medical traumas that conventional baked goods can cause.

Despite having some essential ingredients replaced, each of its (comparatively) wholesome treats has a nice flavor and texture and is very tasty.

Babycakes, 248 Broome St. Lower East Side

Chinatown Ice Cream Factory

Only in Chinatown will flavors like red bean and taro be labeled “regular” and chocolate and vanilla “exotic.” This family-owned favorite has been a local institution for 30 years.

The signature flavors, which include almond cookie, black sesame, and lychee, are served generously, so a single scoop is plenty. Stop by after dim sum or any meal in Chinatown and you won’t be disappointed.

Chinatown Ice Cream Factor, 65 Bayard St. Chinatown

Brooklyn Ice Cream Factory

It would have been easy for me to dismiss this place because it only offers six flavors. But if New Yorkers will walk across the Brooklyn Bridge to come here, they’ve got to be on to something. My friends and I stopped by after a pizza dinner at nearby Grimaldi’s. Perhaps the reason for its popularity is its suggestion that ice cream is the new health food.

Health food or not, the ice cream here was quite nice, better than a lot of those shops that have more than 20 flavors on any given day. We made sure not to let it distract us from enjoying the nighttime view of the Manhattan skyline visible from the shop.

Brooklyn Ice Cream Factory, 1 Water Street, Fulton Ferry Landing Pier

Photo by: yosoynuts

Blue Marble Ice Cream

This eco-conscious shop – it runs on renewable energy and uses biodegradable cups and spoons – began after one of its owners moved to Brooklyn and couldn’t find a decent scoop of ice cream in her neighborhood. As an ice cream snob with a green heart, I’ll go as far as saying that it’s easily one of my favorites in all of New York’s boroughs.

I sampled a taste of matcha green tea before settling on a mini scoop of blackberries and cream, which I ate at one of the adorably decorated tables. Any establishment that uses locally-sourced ingredients and goes out of its way to make a minimal environmental impact gets extra points from me.

And even better yet, the owners are very globally aware and have started a nonprofit, Blue Marble Dreams, to help establish an ice cream shop in Rwanda and raise the spirits of its people.

Blue Marble Ice Cream, 420 Atlantic Ave. Boerum Hill, Brooklyn

Sugar Sweet Sunshine

Need an excuse to eat a cupcake? Sugar Sweet Sunshine will give you ten. And at just $1.50 a pop, a fraction of what other bakeries will charge, it’s hard to resist the sassily named cakes, like Sunshine (vanilla cake with vanilla buttercream), Bob (vanilla cake with chocolate buttercream) and Lemon Yummy.

Vanilla-frosted cupcakes come in a variety of sunny hues. The chocolate frosting is jazzed up with almond flavor, and there are two types of red velvet – sexy with a satin buttercream, or sassy with a chocolate almond frosting. I went for the owner’s favorite, the black & white (chocolate cake with vanilla frosting), which was nice and sweet, although the standouts seem to be the pistachio and pumpkin.

Even if it lacks the hype of some of its more famous counterparts in the city, it’s attracted a loyal following with its customers, and has even earned a mention in the Zagat guide.

Sugar Sweet, 126 Rivington St. Lower East Side

Cones

Bleeker Street is lined with great eats. Cones stands out not only as the best ice cream shop on the block but also one of the best in the city. OK, so there isn’t much competition in its environs, aside from the ubiquitous Pinkberry and Red Mango, and the ultra-pricey Italian import Grom. But don’t let the no-frills interior deter you from the 24 flavors of delicious ice cream.

Photo by: micheung

The Argentine ownership is evidenced by offerings of dulce de leche and mate. I sampled the mate and corn, both quite nice, and convinced the staff to squeeze two flavors into my small cup – Andean blackberry sorbet and strawberries and cream.

Cones, 272 Bleeker St. West Village

Magnolia Bakery

Made famous for its cupcakes by Carrie Bradshaw and friends, this old-fashioned bakery was the place where the craze for those childhood birthday treats began. If you like your cakes intensely sweet, you’ll be happy to know that Magnolia’s are liberally frosted with buttercream.

While the chocolate and vanilla cupcakes are the top sellers here, I personally prefer the specialty banana caramel and hummingbird varieties. Don’t forget to sample the other treats here – the mini cheesecakes, particularly the key lime, are also worth a try. Come during an off-peak hour, otherwise be prepared to wait in a line that wraps around the corner.

Magnolia Bakery, 401 Bleeker Street, West Village

Billy’s Bakery

No matter how much people rave about Magnolia’s cupcakes, I think they’re for the most part pretty ordinary. There’s really no reason for them to be topped with that much frosting, making them so tooth-achingly sweet.

I’m one of the few people who will dare say that Billy’s Bakery in Chelsea, which offers many of the same treats, is better. It’s probably the only place where I’ve been tempted to get the vanilla vanilla (called the yellow daisy here), just because of its flowery name.

One of its specialties is the banana layer cake with cream cheese frosting, which I opted for in cupcake form. The atmosphere is so cheery here that I could easily stand for hours, watching the staff frost cupcakes.
Billy’s Bakery, 184 9th Ave. Chelsea

Milk & Cookies Bakery

Even if you’re not the type of person that would go to a bakery and get the most basic of all cookies, the chocolate chip cookies here are worth a try. They’re made from an oatflour dough that give it an extra crisp that set it apart from all other chocolate chip cookies you’ve ever tasted. There are plenty more to choose from, of course, and you can even help yourself to free samples. If you can’t decide on just one cookie, you can get three for $5.
Milk & Cookies, 19 Commerce St. West Village