I can safely say that most Americans would rather find one on a glue trap than a dinner plate. That is unfortunate, because throughout the world, there are other species of rodent that don’t share the ferocious demeanor of their far distant cousin, the rat, and instead live much more cleanly than industrially raised chickens.

Guinea Pig: MJames, Chateauneuf-du-pape: jean-louis zimmermann; also used as Feature Photo

THE MOST entry-level of dinnertime rodents may achieve such status from its cleverly porcine-inspired name. It also helps that people of the Andean regions from Colombia to Bolivia, and especially Peru and Ecuador, have been roasting guinea pig — better known as cuy — for millenia.

This gentle vegetarian animal turns up braised in a yellow pepper sauce at upscale tourist restaurants, while at street stalls, it is fried with its claws still attached — as if in some imitation of a carbonite-frozen Han Solo.

Han Solo Guineas: Darrin DuFord

Still other eateries serve them butterflied and roasted (have your camera ready). Staying true to its name, guinea pig meat resembles roast pork, especially when its skin becomes lasciviously crispy and greasy.

The guinea pig is usually viewed as a pet in the States, but Anthony Bourdain does not seem to think this tradition will get in the way of moving guinea pig to the meat column. On his recent shooting of No Reservations in Ecuador, he tucked into cuy and commented “If kids knew how delicious these things were, there would be lots of empty cages at schools across America.”

Wine Pairing:

a white Chateauneuf-du-pape will hold up to the generous fat under guinea pig skin while the wine’s floral fruit will find a soul mate in this tender white meat.

Agouti: brian.gratwicke, Syrah: Ricardo Bernardo | ricardobernardo.net

A skittish herbivore, the agouti, a native of Central and South America, is also confusingly called a bush rat, even though it is not a rat, it has no tail, and it can weigh up to eight pounds.

So let’s say you’ve just speared one; how do you prepare him? Slow-cook him over a low fire, because his natural jumpiness means the meat needs a few hours to loosen up. As I discovered on the Caribbean side of western Panama, the agouti takes well to barbecue sauce.

The rewards of eating agouti go beyond indulgence of taste buds: in our hectic lives, we should be thankful to find a meal that requires a long time to cook, allowing us to spend more time with our family and friends around a fire while the critter roasts. McAgouti? I don’t think so.

Wine Pairing:

Barbecued agouti calls for a peppery Syrah, especially if the sauce is tangy and spicy.

More delicious rodents on P. 2.

Night picnic at the Eiffel Tower (also used as feature photo): ryanfb

Stop by an artisan boulanger. While the boulangeries (bakeries) seem endless, it’s the artisan boulangers where the food is made onsite. There are large selections of breads, and walking out of a store, baguette in hand, made me feel particularly and pleasantly French.

Boulange: Kristin Conard

If you get a traditional baguette, you’ll be getting the long loaf. This crunchy bread will get hard and go stale quickly. Some say the shelf life of a baguette is less than six hours. To get it sliced at the store, ask for tranche. Or ask specifically for pain de mie, or sandwich bread. Baguettes cost €1 to €2.

You’ll probably want to top your baguette with some French cheese. There are over 200 varieties in fromageries (specialty cheese shops). But if you’re looking to stay on budget, many grocery stores have a great selection. Though the “Président” brand is to be avoided, it’s the most basic, factory produced option in the store.

If you’re me, bread and cheese is good enough.

Veggies at the market: Kristin Conard

But if you’re more health-conscious, check out the open markets selling fresh fruits and vegetables. Each district has at least one weekly produce market, open from at least 9AM, if not earlier, and closing down around 1 or 2PM. My favorite is the Aligre market along Place d’Aligre in the 12th district, open every day except Monday.

Many boulangeries are combined with a pâtisserie, (pastry shop). You can pick up quiches for around €3 and fresh fruit tarts for €2. Quiches can be toasted onsite or served cold, both are good.

When you come in, make sure to say ‘bonjour’ to the shop keeper. If you smile through your butchery of the French language and seem happy and warm, you’ll get better service. These are also ideal places if you don’t know much French, as you can point and smile to order. It’s not elegant, but you’ll know what you’re getting.

Or just order a croissant. All pastry shops will have some version of the flaky treat from plain to ham and cheese (jambon et fromage) to chocolate (chocolat).

A crêpe can cost you at least around $10 or €7 in a restaurant. You can get one on the street for between €1.50 and €4.50, depending on the area and the filling. Around Notre Dame and really anywhere in the 1st – 5th districts, it will cost at least €3. Head out a bit, near the Bastille area, up near Montmarte away from the crowds, and you will find cheaper spots.

Civil Disobedience: smudie

There are two types of crêpe batter, one sweet, one savory. In some restaurants, they will only make one batch, and they will use that for both types of crêpes, and I can tell you that a gooey, cheese filling tastes horrible in a sweet crêpe. So at the street vendors, see if they have two separate mixes for the batter. If they don’t, it’s better to order a sweet one. The cheapest option is a plain sugar crêpe, but popular fillings include Nutella and banana.

Admittedly, I don’t know much about wine. I know what I like, and that’s always through trial and error. I don’t know what wine goes with what food or what region makes the best merlot. But I do know that I chafe at having to pay €4 for a glass of wine when I could get a bottle for the same price at a local shop.

Yes, there are fancy wines and champagnes available throughout Paris at specialty wine shops. But walking into any grocery store will give you a selection of French wines from €1.99 and up. And, at least to me, even the cheap bottles taste good and make the ideal accompaniment to a meal.

Maybe you just want to grab a seat on the nearest bench, but if you want to add a dash of romance or avoid car exhaust while you eat, the following are some sweet spots for a picnic in Paris.

For people watching you can just take your food to any park. In the Tuileries Gardens, you can lay out your meal next to the circular fountains. You’ll be in good company with locals on lunch break.

Garden at Musée de Carnavalet: Kristin Conard

In the Luxembourg Gardens there are plenty of benches and open spaces, and you can watch people playing pétanque on the lawn.

You can avoid the crowds and embrace nature by heading to the Bois de Bologne on the outskirts of Paris. It’s also a great spot for finding your own secluded spot, since the park is so big. Or head up to the Parc des Buttes Chaumont, where mostly locals and very few tourists go. It has waterfalls and a grotto along with an outstanding view of the city.

Closer to the city center, but less well known, are the gardens of the Musée de Carnavalet. Small and elegant gardens and the occasional sounds of a concert floating down from the upper floors make this spot perfect for quiet reflection.

Dine in macabre style near the grave of Jim Morrison in the Pére Lachaise Cemetary. For a less crowded graveside dining experience, but still as legendary, head over to the graves of Oscar Wilde or Edith Piaf.

Shakespeare and Company: Kristin Conard

Are you a bookworm?

Why not pick a spot outside Shakespeare and Company, the famous English language bookstore on the banks of the Seine, with a view of Notre Dame? It’s ideal for pondering your life in the shadow of history. It’s also a spot to meet other travelers and expats shopping for books.

If you’re feeling romantic, head to the Pont des Arts, the bridge where couples attach a lock to the chain links and throw the key into the river to symbolize their eternal link. There are benches all along the bridge.

Or take your dinner and your sweetheart to a spot along the river. Walk down the steps from the road down to the riverside and find your own romantic spot. Another popular place for romance is along the tip of Île de la Cité, near Notre Dame. I have seen people unfold picnic blankets, pull out champagne glasses and light candles where they have a clear view over the Seine and the heart of Paris.

Community Connection

Where to stay, how to save and What Not to Do in Paris are all topics covered in MatadorTravel’s Paris Focus Page where we centralize all our Paris content.

And if you’re traveling France on the cheap, you’ll probably want to see How to Travel in France for Less Than $100 a Day.

To enjoy paella in Valencia: Mauricio Pellegrinetti

The Valencia region in Spain is known for two main things — its blindingly white sand beaches (Costa Blanca) and its cuisine, mainly the rich and flavorful paella. But, aside from the thick and creamy rice dishes, the area is dotted with some of the best eats in the entire country.

This swanky, Michelin-starred restaurant is housed in Hotel Palacio Marqués de Caro. Step down the stairs from the entrance into a warm, cave-like atmosphere offset with twinkling, white lights. Some of the best food in the region is served on the spot’s pristine, white tablecloths.

Salad at Arrop: author

Every dish is a picture of perfection: flower petals draped over veggies and shellfish (menestra fria de verduras y moluscos con jugo iodado de guisantes, or cold vegetable and mollusk stew with a pea reduction), tomato peels and sundried tomatoes over fried egg (huevos fritos con emulsión de tocino a la brasa or fried egg with a grilled bacon emulsion).

Even the desserts, such as the café con leche quemada, mantequilla y nueces de macadamia, (coffee with burnt milk, butter and macadamia nuts) are works of art and bursting with flavor. English translation doesn’t do these dishes justice.

Chef Ricard Camarena clearly knows his food, and every plate gives dedicated food lovers a reason to fall deeper in love with his traditional Mediterranean cuisine. Dishes vary according to season and the chef’s whim.

Calle Almirante, 14, Valencia 46003 (18€ – 25€)

Casa Montaña has got it all — a tasting room, an aging room, a tavern and a cellar stocked with thousands of bottles of wine, many from the region. This century-old tavern serves up tapas of every kind, nearly all of them straight from the farms and sea of Valencia.

Canapes: jenny downing

Start with a plate of Iberian Ham, a silky smooth dish that is popular throughout Spain, then sample the cod croquettes or the fava beans spiced with ham (michirones). If there’s still room after tapas and vino, indulge in desserts like flan mousse and truffles.

Calle Jose Benlliure, 69, 46011 Valencia.
The restaurant is closed the second half of August.

Slick on the outside, inviting on the inside, La Ferradura is an architectural treat. Its oversized outdoor terrace can accommodate hundreds of diners who want to enjoy undiluted views of the picture-perfect Mediterranean.

Lamb at Arrop: JohnONolan

While the house specialties are the traditional rice dishes, the menu offers a variety of regional treats like the the carpaccio de bacalao marinado al eneldo fresco con coulis de tomato (cod carpaccio marinated in fresh dill with a tomato coulis), and gambas al ajillo meridional (breath-kicking garlic shrimp).

Pulpo afeira con cachelos (octopus with potatoes), esgarraet de pimiento con mojama en aceite de oliva virgen (a local preparation of peppers and tuna in olive oil), suquet de pescado y mariscos (fish and seafood in a sauce of garlic, almonds and tomatoes), and chuletón de buey a la parilla (grilled T-Bone ox steak) are just a few choices that may have you rethinking your ideas about Spanish cuisine.

After the meal, if there’s still room, you can sip on a cafe con leche and indulge in the mousse — there is a kiwi banana version that is divine.

Avenida Mare Nostrum, 42, 46120 Alboraya. (6€ – 24€)

Sea bass at Darsena: author

Located on the water in Alicante, Darsena offers hundreds of rice concoctions, meat and seafood meals. Try the sea bass with Alicante veggies or the salmon brought to the table wrapped in paper. After the main course, check out the vast array of postres and people watch thanks to the large panoramic windows. Sinful.

Marina Deportiva, Muelle Levante 6, 03001 Alicante. (10€ – 25€)

Restaurante Monastrell, at the five-star Hospes Amérigo, is the crown jewel of culinary action in Valencia. Helmed by Chef María José San Román, who recently trained the White House chef how to prepare the perfect paella and is dubbed the “Saffron Queen,” this establishment cooks up some of the most savory dishes in the world.

Oysters at Monastrell: author

One of the chef’s most delectable treats is her unique oyster appetizer. From-the-sea oysters are prepared with slices of juicy green apples, fennel, refreshing cucumber juice and vermouth. Not sure what to dine on for the main course? The lobster with vermicelli “paella” is something you can’t miss with.

For dessert, the extensive list might have you at a loss. My suggestion? Try the Tanzanian chocolate soil with french toast brioche and orange ice cream.

This restaurant may bit a bit out of budget (prices aren’t listed on the menu), but if you’ve got money to spend, it won’t be wasted here. The renowned chef also owns other more budget-friendly properties in Alicante, including the gorgeous La Taberna del Gourmet.

Calle de San Fernando, 10, 03002 Alicante.

There are plenty of restaurants in the Valencia region that deliver some damn good paella, but a favorite is Restaurante Barranco Playa in Benidorm.

Mmmmm. Paella.: benjieordonez

This little gem treats diners to beachside dining (200 meters from the sand) and a very fine paella.

Eat it by the spork-full while sipping some Tinto de Verano. But know that while Benidorm is lovely, it is oft referred to as a small version of New York City, courtesy of the towering hotels and condos lining the streets and hills of this British resort hot spot.

Calle Vicente Llorca Alós, 14, 03502 Benidorm

Community Connection

On your way to Spain or already there? MatadorNetwork’s Spain focus page brings you things to keep an eye out for, including some of our community experts who can answer your questions if you’re in a bind.

Head north for a Mix of Surf and Culture.

A savory chicken dish from Alluette’s Cafe, photo: author

Most of the places that make national lists and tourist radar are the four or five-star, white tablecloth kinds of places, but many of the best cheap-eats places in the Holy City are located in strip malls, frequented by locals and unknown to visitors.* And they’re decidedly unSouthern. I’ve deliberately left shrimp & grits, sweet tea, and barbecue off the menu; they’re ubiquitous, swing-a-dead-cat places you can find on your own.

Hands-down, it’s Sesame Burgers & Beer, with two locations: the Citadel Mall in West Ashley or up in Park Circle in North Charleston. From the South Carolina Burger with pimento cheese to the Memphis — topped with peanut butter, bacon and banana — you can’t go wrong.

The burger comes in beef, turkey, chicken, even black bean varieties. When I need to go to my happy place, I get a roasted beet salad to start with greens, goat cheese, and pesto vinaigrette, and my eyes roll back in my head until the last leaf leaves the bowl. Then I dig into a burger.

4726 Spruill Ave
North Charleston or 2070 Same Rittenburg Blvd

Mt. Pleasant (also used as feature photo): BAR Photography

Jack’s Cosmic Dogs is like being on an acid trip that brings you back to the 1950s, so you don’t really mind — or notice — that the concrete floor kinda sticks to your shoes.

The original Jack’s is in Mount Pleasant, a nondescript cinder-block building outside, but inside hot dog heaven awaits with 24 different kinds of hot dogs amid décor reminiscent of Fonzie’s garage. Your best bets are the fresh-cut fries, the blue cheese slaw, or the sweet potato mustard. Even vegans can indulge here, with tofu dogs and black bean cakes on the menu.

1531 Folly Road, James Island

Mount Pleasant or 3 miles north of the Isle of Palms connector, on Hwy 17 North, 10-12 miles north of Charleston

No, this is not an oxymoron. A sign hanging on the wall at Alluette’s Cafe says GOOD FOOD TAKES TIME. Alluette Jones-Smalls is a Geechi Girl from way back, and while her menu is not what most people think of when they say soul food, it’s just as satisfying.

Menu board from the daily dose, photo: author

Even vegans will dine well here. Start with a bowl of the organic lima bean soup, and then move on to the hormone-free stewed chicken with organic basmati rice and organic string beans, or local fried shrimp with organic potato salad. In cooler months, if the collard green sandwich is on the menu, order it. No questions. You’ll thank me later.

80 A Reid St.

A quick look at the menu at Daily Dose Cafe may take you aback: Hot Cowgirl, Hook-Up, Pescado Loco. The name of the game here is Good Mood Food, and almost everything on the menu comes in the form of a pita pocket or a wrap, with beans and rice in mostly everything.

699 Highland Ave., James Island

It’s just not a good idea to visit Charleston without a trip to Folly Beach, a barrier island 15 minutes from downtown that is the self-proclaimed Edge of America. Folly is as much of a island as a state of mind, and one visit to Surf Bar will make that crystal clear.

Folly Beach:BAR Photography

Surf videos from the ’60s play on permanent loop on the TVs while surfers and beach lovers hang out on the outside deck and a stray dog wanders from table to table looking for a stray hand or scrap. The food is equally laid back and very good, with salads, pulled pork sandwiches and excellent burgers fitting the bill for this mellow Folly vibe. Thirsty? Ask for a Painkiller. You won’t be sorry.

03 W Cooper, Folly Beach

The south of the border cuisine at Santi’s Restaurante Mexicano is the real deal, and therefore attracts clientele from the sizable Mexican community of North Charleston, broke college students, and locals who know and appreciate Mexican food that has not been Americanized.

The burritos are overstuffed, the chicken mole is spiced just right, and one order of guacamole won’t be nearly enough. Plus, it’s cheap cheap cheap.

1302 Meeting St, North Charleston

Quyen Bistro & Party Kingdom is just a trip. Out front, is a mild mannered restaurant with great sushi and pho, and an extensive lunch buffet with around 50 different items to choose from. Traipse on out back, and it’s an anime and videogame lover’s paradise. Don’t miss Teddy Mountain.

1739 Maybank Hwy, James Island Shopping Center

Mmmm. Red velvet cake: rox sm

Saffron Cafe & Bakery attracts office workers during the week to dine on Lowcountry-Mediterranean-fusion cuisine: hummus and she-crab soup merge with shrimp and grits and falafel. The beef stroganoff is my favorite.

On Sundays around noon, the place is packed with worshippers from four churches within two blocks who gorge on the ample Lowcountry-influenced brunch buffet. The bakery retail counter is the first thing you’ll see when you walk in the door; the Red Velvet cake is the best in town.

333 East Bay Street

*Many of the eateries on the beaten path in downtown Charleston (the Peninsula or the Historic District) cater to tourists who don’t want to drive. You’ll need wheels to get to some of these places, but they’re definitely worth it.

Community Connection

Maybe you don’t know what kind of history there is in your own back yard. If your back yard is in South Carolina, and you’re ready to explore, check out MatadorGoods’ Book Review: South Carolina (On the Road Histories).

Matador’s Managing Editor Julie Schwietert’s Letter from South Carolina is a slice of life from SC for those that are homesick or just looking for a good read.

Breakfast Burritos: stu_spivack

Your local fast food joint probably has you skeptical about the breakfast burrito being anything but a pathetic under-filled tortilla shell with the breakfast scraps. Try a legitimate breakfast burrito with fresh eggs, potatoes, onions, and green chilies, and you’ll be wondering why you didn’t do it before.

The California, complete with french fries:
pernamently scatterbrained

Go almost anywhere outside southern California and order a California-style burrito and you will receive an (albeit delicious) run-of-the-mill burrito. But go to a burrito joint in San Diego, and the burrito includes a golden, flaky surprise. Yes! French Fries.

Think of carne guisada as the Mexican beef stew. Chunks of beef are slow roasted for hours in a gravy that leaves the beef fall-apart tender. Swap out the old and weathered carne asada for the fresh and tantalizing guisada, and rekindle your love for the burrito.

Mmmmm. Chile Relleno: jasonlam
(also used as feature photo)

I would assume that most of us are familiar with the queso stuffed poblano chili known as a ‘chile relleno’. What most of you are probably not familiar with, is a burrito using this Mexican side dish as the center for a jaw-busting, huge burrito. All the normal burrito fillings are all packed around the chile, making for a tasty, yet intimidating burrito.

If there are two words that bring on a Pavlovian response in the American, they are “fried” and “burrito”. Combine the two and you’ve got a Chimichanga. This almost indecent burrito is usually topped with melted cheese and salsa picante, and served with dollops of guacamole, sour cream, and pico de gallo.

Chorizo. Oh, yeah.: rick

Chorizo is a sausage that is made from pork and dried peppers. It’s usually ground for burrito filling and adds a spicier element to your burritos that knocks chicken and carne asada out of the park in flavor. Next time you’re in line trying to decide on bird or cow, take a chance on chorizo.

It’s a burrito in every way that you would expect, except it’s smothered in melted cheese and red-chili sauce. When pondering on whether to make your burrito a “wet” burrito, the only real question is, “Why not?”

Korean Chicken Burrito: ninetimesthree

It looks like a burrito, alright. The texture is even similar. But once you bite into a Korean burrito your palate will certainly short-circuit. This burrito is usually stuffed with a tender Korean-style meat (usually bulgogi), Asian style rice, veggies, and occasionally kimchi. I hear that Kogi Korean BBQ Taco Truck is slinging excellent Korean burritos around LA.

Community Connection

MatadorTravel Community member Stu says he knows where to get the Best Burrito in San Francisco. Debate him, compliment him, or post your own favorite food tips by starting a blog today.

Tapas in Granada: Daquella manera

El tapeo is one of the most convivial ways to spend an evening, and there is nowhere better to experience it than Granada. That said, if you don’t take a step away from the tourist hotspots, you could find yourself fobbed off with a packet of crisps. It won’t happen in any of these places, though.

Casa Torcuato has been a fixture on its pretty plaza in the Albayzin Alto for years. This is a no nonsense place where classic tapas are served in generous portions. The pescaíto, or fried fish, is particularly good and comes with pasta salad. Weather permitting, and mostly it does, tables are set up in the square for some idyllic al fresco dining. Quintessentially Spanish, Granadino and wonderful.

31 Calle Pagés , Albayzin Alto, 958 20 28 18.

Café Casa Julio: habibmi

Casa Julio is good at fish, which is obvious as soon as you walk in. There are tapas of gambas (shrimp), rape en adobe (marinated monkfish), calamares (squid) and berenjenas (deep fried aubergines). The boquerónes (deep fried anchovies) arrive in batter spiced with cumin. A firm favourite with the locals and you can smell why.

5 Calle Hermosa, a side street where Calle Elvira meets Plaza Nueva

This place has been here since early last century and probably hasn’t seen a lick of paint since. Cavernous, with an elegant bar and the ubiquitous fluorescent strip lighting; the walls are covered with ceramic tiles interspersed with hand painted depictions of Andalusian life. Interior decorating with the baking heat of the summer in mind. More than Andalusian or Spanish; this is the South.
I have pisto (a ratatouille-like vegetable stew) topped with a quail’s egg. Cute and tasty, and since I go back for more, albóndigas de carne (meatballs) served with fries.
A good selection of sherries from the barrel; we choose the bone dry Fino. If you have a sweet tooth, go for Moscatel.

59 Calle Gran Vía de Colón at Calle Tinajilla, 958 20 21 38

Everything is a sandwich. Tapas of stewed pork and tortilla with spinach arrive in pulguitas (tiny bread rolls). The place is feet from the intersection of Calle Elvira and Plaza Nueva, is small, warm, nicely cramped and friendly. The kitchen is more of a cupboard. This is salt-of-the-earth territory. I never see it closed, or quiet.

Calle Elvira, just off Plaza Nueva, 958 22 80 62

Inside Los Diamantes (used as Feature Photo):
Daquella manera

Calle Navas, an upscale equivalent to Calle Elvira, is lined with tapas bars and Los Diamantes, not at all upscale, is the star attraction. It looks unpromising and I’m disappointed when I’m handed fries for my first tapa, but they turn out to be batons of deep fried courgette (zucchini). Yummy. The place is strip lit, loud and cramped, and is deservedly a favourite amongst Granadinos for its fish specialities. I wonder if there’s rivalry with Casa Julio, a similar operation.

26 Calle Navas, 958 22 70 70

At the shabbier end of Calle Elvira, there is nothing shabby about Páprika, with its smart, canopied terrace and beatnik interior. It looks too posh for tapas, but it isn’t. I get some vegetable paella with a glass of local wine. The place is also a sharp restaurant, though for that you pay. The paella is packed with flavour, and the food here is largely vegetarian and very good.

3 Cuesta de Abarqueros, near the old city gate at the other end of Calle Elvira, 958 80 47 85

Boquerones: birasuegi

In the Albayzin, this pretty place has a popular terrace. I have habas con jamon – broad beans with ham, a local classic. The youthful staff exude cool. I bet they listen to difficult jazz. The tapas are great, but even if there were no such thing, this is one of Granada’s nicest bars. A reward for walking up the Calderería, the steep Moroccan souk that leads here.

22 Cuesta de San Gregorio, where the Caldereria Nueva ends and the Cuesta begins in the Albayzin

A fantastic tapas bar, named for Egypt’s great chanteuse and specialising in tapas with a North African twist. As in many of Granada’s bars, impressive food emerges from an unfeasibly small kitchen. They do a plato degustación, or tasting platter, for €12. Order it if you are hungry and there are at least four of you, otherwise go with the ample and tasty tapas that will come with your drinks. They are accommodating for vegetarians.

17 Calle Jardines

Calle Elvira: Daquella manera

Is it a bar with a chacinería (pork butcher’s shop) at the entrance or a chacinería with a bar at the back? Either way, you need to duck beneath the hanging chorizos and salchichónes, squeeze past the till and behind the counter to find yourself in this cosy, surprisingly chic little place. Trastienda translates as “behind the shop”, I discover later. The tapa, unsurprisingly, is a nice bit of salchichón.

11 Calle de los Cuchilleros, just off Plaza Nueva

A decent selection of beers and you get to select your tapa. This only happens in a handful of bars; in most places the tapa will be dictated by the house. Open from 1pm on a Sunday and otherwise from 7pm. Impromptu flamenco sessions erupt here in the evenings, I’m told. Good choice for a locale if you’re in Granada for a while because of it’s relaxed, no fuss atmosphere.

85 Calle Elvira

Community Connection

Granada in your future? Check out community member and Spain Expert El Lobo’s impressions in Dream Awake in Granada. And not to toot our own horn, but MatadorNights has the Top Ten Flamenco Clubs in Granada.

If you’re looking for information about travel to Spain, you’ll get it on MatadorTravel’s Spain Focus Page.

Avocat au Crabe at Chez Alexandre: ampersandyslexia

But some of the most memorable culinary experiences that I’ve had were in dining establishments that contrasted local cuisine: a Moroccan meal in Paris, Indian food in Christchurch, or Argentine asado in Costa Rica. Part of the charm is the juxtaposition.

Montréal is a North American foodie heaven. And a major supporting factor to this epicurean positioning is the multitude of ethnicities that have chosen to establish new lives and enterprises in the city. Local gourmands rejoice in the diversity.

Here are 10 ways to savor the international offerings:

Dish from Nil Bleu: TMAB2003

If you have yet to encounter the Ethiopian eating experience, you are in for a messy treat. At this well-known Montréal institution you can chose from a variety of stewed dishes that include chicken, lamb or pulses (vegetarian). All meals served with crêpe-like fermented flatbread, which you use to sop up the stewy deliciousness. Eating with your hands makes the experience all the more jovial.

Located on an unassuming street just a step off ‘The Main’ (Boulevard St. Laurent), this eclectic Brazilian restaurant features a selection of wallet-friendly, yet delicious, “Table d’hote” choices. Try the feijoada (national dish of Brazil), and enjoy the adorable man strumming his guitar to South American standards. Reservations recommended. Bring your own wine or beer.

My vote for the best potatoes in the city, garnished simply with cumin and cilantro. The friendly Syrian owner often mingles and chats as he replenishes water glasses. On the weekend people share poetry & music as the restaurant becomes a makeshift cultural center.

Restaurant Beijing (also used as feature photo): Gary Soup

I know I’ve stumbled across an authentic Chinese resto when there are actual Chinese families dining inside. Located unsurprisingly in the heart of Montreal’s Chinatown, you might have to wait for a table at this no-frills eatery, but it’s worth it as you’ll be in the company of folks who know good Chinese food. The lemon chicken and Chinese broccoli are personal faves.

An authentic Mexican eatery and food boutique in the Montréal Gay Village. Start with one of their savory traditional soups, continue with a bean burrito and finish with a flan or custard. And if you like something you ate, buy the ingredients and recreate the magic!

You’ll be convinced that you are sitting in a Parisian bistro at this charming downtown restaurant. It’s a chic ‘Brasserie’ that takes pride in remaining unpretentious, which ironically is pas très francais. Try the French onion soup to maintain full French immersion.

Mmmmm. Butter Chicken: ginnerobot

If you’re willing to go the distance for amazingly delicious and ridiculously cheap Indian food, then you’ll head up to the heart of Park X, one of Canada’s most ethnically diverse neighborhoods. Bombay Mahal serves up the best butter chicken in the western hemisphere. And they can adjust menu piquant levels from Caucasian-spice-trepidation to jalapeño-hotness-warrior. Servers are pleasantly playful.

There are a ton of options for eating Portuguese along Boulevard Saint Laurent (The Main) ranging from fancy high-end bistros to hole-in-the-wall cafés with animated, older Portuguese men. Chez Doval is a cozy, affordably romantic, middle-of-the-road option. There are many options on the menu, but the classic rotisserie chicken always seems to be calling my name.

For many novice ‘Foodies,’ Afghani cuisine isn’t the most obvious of choices. But with basic ingredients, such as fresh yogurt, coriander, garlic, onions, tomatoes and potatoes, Khyber Pass does great job of creating saliva-inducing dishes from classic middle eastern fixins. Bring your own wine.

La Belle Province is what you eat when you want to eat like
you’re in Montréal: yawper

If you’re visiting Montréal, then you’ll probably want to sample the local culinary offerings. Many would argue that poutine is the national dish, and you can swing by any location of La Belle Province to sample this workin’ class Quebecoise fare. But for a real treat, ‘AIX’ is the place for higher-end, creative dining. The rotational menu takes into consideration seasonal produce, ensuring that the meal will be both fresh and local.

Community Connection

Ready to stuff your face some more? Well Fed and Socially Conscious in Montréal has more ideas for great things to eat in Montréal.

And in special honour of Canada Day, MatadorTrips has a feast for your eyes with Canadian Natural Beauty Across the Country.

Rolling out the dough at Ben’s. Photo by contusion

Tavern on Jane Street

This is a neighborhood pub, off the radar for most reviewers, a boisterous bar with about 25 tables and some supremely great wine choices. The restaurant feels like something that Paul Revere might have eaten at – lots of brick, wood and low ceilings. So charming, in fact, that you should break the rule and bring a Trojan on the first date, because you’re getting laid if you have half a game and start the night here.

I recommend the burger, which crushes those across the street at Corner Bistro and is as hot as any other beef in the burger porn world.

Tavern on Jane, 31 8th Ave, (212) 675-2526

Toasties

New York Deli sandwiches are dreamt of worldwide but the truth is that most of them suck – crackled bread, questionable meat, bottom shelf mayonnaise. Toasties (embarrassing to say out loud – “Meet me at Toasties.”) pounds the nail straight into the stud.

The Half King. Photo by roboppy

Three locations serve unreal sandwiches. The Alice is a work of art; a combination of turkey breast, brie cheese, granny smith apples, Romaine lettuce, and honey mustard. The Smoke Jack does me in every time – turkey with melted jack cheese, bacon, sundried-tomato pate and honey Dijon.

Toppings can be mixed, matched and manifested. Their breakfast sandwiches will leave you full all day. This is a sandwich as good as any New Yorker dreams of.

Toasties, multiple locations, NYC

Thainy

Every New Yorker has their favorite Thai place and this is mine. Reasonably priced for New York, the food is simple and perfect. The décor is a bit much but that’s never distracted me from having a fantastic bowl of Tom Kha, or indulging in their peanut curry.

Suitable for an early dinner with friends, or a blind date from the internet.

Thainy, 94 3rd Avenue, (212) 696-2888

Patsy’s

I’d rather not muck about with waiting in line with tourists for some bulge-eyed pizza – this is as good as any other famous brick oven pizzeria. Patsy’s has a few locations in the city but doesn’t feel like a chain. Even a Jersey Girl could dig it.

The pizza is as good as it gets, with fresh cheese and slightly charred crust. Their family sized salads are great to share and do like I do; get a side of their sweet, homemade marinara to dip your bread in. Classy? No. Great? Yes.

Patsy’s Pizzeria, multiple locations

The Half King

Appetizers at La Mela. Photo by tubbynj

Owned by writer Sebastian Junger, The Half King dishes out “pub food done right.” It’s an excellent place to have a proper Sunday Brunch, especially if you’re from the UK and crave some bangers or beans. The fish & chips is my favorite, heaped onto a plate with a side of some tart and tasty cole slaw.

There’s a small back garden with about ten tables, the kind of tiny space that New Yorkers covet. Great for birthday dinners and dates from the internet.

The Half King, 505 W 23rd St, (212) 462-4300

Sushi Sen Nin

Awkwardly located around the corner from The Empire State Building, Sen Nin is a bit of a ghost town at night, yet entirely packed at lunchtime. Don’t let the half-filled room fool you – this is some of the best sushi in the city. And it isn’t cheap.

The rolls are heaping, often covered with multi-colored roe – as much spectacle as fresh, incredible fish. I’m addicted to the tuna tatake salad (with crunchy pieces of garlic) and the simple Sunny California roll (brown rice, crab, avocado and mango). I’ve twice gone for a sushi boat and both times left feeling like a prince or a king or a queen. I’d go here before Nobu or Blue Ribbon, because I am a true sushi ninja.

Sushi Sen Nin, 30 East 33rd Street, (212) 889-220

Tortilla Flats

Most of the time, this is a fratty Mexican place that feels like a bar, with booths and strong drinks. I would never show up on a weeknight when it’s stuffed with people downing pitchers of margaritas, crushing on members of the opposite sex or getting plowed during Tuesday Night Bingo.

For me, it’s all about Sunday at noon, when the place is mostly empty. I’ll take down a Frisbee-sized quesadilla grande, gorge on chips & salsa and probably make the move towards a second or third margarita, not leaving until I am stumbly and bloated. Elvis and Ramones might blast on the system, but so might Three Dog Night or Foreigner.

Many, many times I’ve sat here for hours, reading the New York Times and having a “quiet moment” in this normally raucous establishment. If it matters to you, several times I’ve also been in the company of neighborhood celebrities doing the exact same thing.

Tortilla Flats, 767 Washington St, (212) 243-1053

Ben’s Pizza

Patsy’s. Photo by laughingsquid

This is the pizza I dream about, the stuff that makes me forget all about the worst pizzas in the world. The sauce has a sweet, salty taste and the cheese is piled on high. Ask for a pie with garlic and you’ll be unkissable for months.

To me this is event pizza, something ordered for special occasions, like The Superbowl or a Survivor finale. The pie travels well – order ahead a full pizza, pick it up in a cab and make it home in time for whatever television gets you off.

The men who work here are all business, with zero tolerance for people in line that hem and haw over decisions. Fast moves will gain you points.

Famous Ben’s Pizza, 177 Spring Street, (212) 966-449

Freeman’s

Be prepared for sticker shock: unless you’re a Friend of Bill, you’re not getting out of here for less than $50. Worse, crowds can swarm this place and I tend to arrive on the early side, around 6:30, which isn’t even close to hip.

Why? Unreal food. Start with Steamed Prince Edward Island Mussels (in garlic aïoli and toast hefeweizen broth), nab a side of Sautéed Rapini with garlic & chili flakes and go crazy on the Goffle Road Farm Oven-Roasted Chicken, with grilled romaine (yes) and house-made ranch dressing.

Freeman’s Restaurant, 191 Chrystie Street, (212) 420-0012

La Mela

Little Italy enthusiasts might poo-poo this place in favor of something more high-brow – I’d give them a few fingers under the chin right back. Once a tiny space, La Mela has crept into three neighboring storefronts and remains a huge favorite for me.

There is a menu, but it should be ignored. Just say the word (“family style”) and a handful of courses will come your way until you pray for mercy. Big hunks of fresh mozzarella caprese, oodles of al dente pasta and a dessert plate that makes me squirm in my chair as I write this.

The staff is a hoot and, some nights, the place takes on the festive feel of a family restaurant in Italy – hands-over-elbows, big bottles of cheap wine, cramped quarters, families just a table away from young lovers.

Ask me about the time that I took Slipknot here.

La Mela Restaurant, 167 Mulberry Street, (212) 431-9493

Mango Pickle. Photo by f10n4

Mango Pickle (India)

Mango pickle is one of the preferred pickle dishes in India (the country that is said to have started pickling). Raw green mangos are pickled in mustard or sesame oil, and then a mixture of spices is added to create this salty and spicy pickle. Commonly found spices include turmeric, fenugreek seed, red chili powder, and mustard seed.

Lemon Pickle. Photo by dougbeckers

Lemon Pickle (Morocco)

Although the lemon pickle is very similar to the Indian mango pickle, it is almost a nightly tableside item in Morocco. It is also commonly used as an ingredient in Tajine dishes.

The flavor packs a wallop as you’re first hit by spiciness and then immediately consumed by a full and tangy lemon taste.

Gari. Photo by 00dann

Gari (Japan)

I bet you didn’t know that the ginger you use as a pallet cleanser after eating sushi is actually pickled. It’s ginger that has been soaked in a sugar and vinegar solution. With the widespread popularity of sushi, I’d say that makes Gari the second biggest pickle after the cucumber.

Gari. Photo by mtcarlson

Pickled Herring (Scandinavia)

Sure, it’s not the most appetizing sounding pickle, but it’s huge in Scandinavia. First the herring is cured in salt, then removed and added to a pickling solution that can involve various spices, like peppercorns and raw onions.

Scandinavians serve pickled herring primarily for holidays, with bread, potatoes, sour cream, and akvavit (Scandinavian schnapps).

Rodbetor. Photo by N00

Rodbetor (Scandinavia)

Another favorite in Scandinavia, Rodbetor is a colorful side dish to brighten up your bland dinner. Beets are pickled in a vinegar, salt, and sugar solution with other spices like clove. This pickle almost always includes raw onion.

Pickled Eggs. Photo by susansimon

Pickled Eggs (UK, for starters)

The eggs are first hard-boiled, the shells are removed and then the eggs are placed into a pickling brine of vinegar, salt, and spices. After a day or a few months of pickling (depending on how strong you want the flavor), pull a couple eggs out and enjoy with your favorite pint. Have an open mind – British food isn’t as bad as you’d think.

Onion? Photo by briannalehman

Cebollas Encurtidas (Ecuador)

Simple flavors prevail in South America and few are more simple than chucking an egg in some vinegar. Especially in Ecuador, where something as easy as pickled red onion is used as frequently as North Americans use ketchup on fries.

Kimchi. Photo by isaaclicious

Kimchi (Korea)

Kimchi is essential to Korean culture and is essentially pickled Chinese cabbage that is stored in big pots and left outdoors to ferment. Although there are many ways to prepare Kimchi, it’s usually very spicy and very full of flavor.

Community Connection

Interested in how the world cooks? Check out many Matador’s food articles. Fast food lovers, we’ve got you covered, from 50 of the most amazing burger joints in the world to hot dogs around the world (let alone what you can put on them).

Taquería Mi Ciudad. Photo by casasroger

Taquería Mi Ciudad. That’s what the sign said.

It wasn’t in a guidebook and it wasn’t on a map, but I saw it while walking towards the Opera metro and decided to give it a shot. I’d eaten some tourist-ready, drab Mexican in Madrid before, yet this near-dive joint looked promising. In the way that only near-dive joints can.

Inside? Transformational, life-changing tacos.

OK, so maybe that’s a bit much, but that’s how the food hit me. Why? Because somehow the concept of a cheap, simple taco has become bastardized as the recipe goes around the world. These were the real thing, not a Spanish approximation of what a Taco Bell-eatin’ American would like.

There were only three filling choices as far as I was concerned; a thick, smoky Pollo Mole, a spicy/sweet Rojo with pumpkin seed and one hell of a Cochinita Pibil (a citrus-soaked pork). I’ve since had those three tacos five times, making excuses to use Madrid as a hub on trips through Spain. I have gone to surprising lengths to have their taste sensations put my buds in a sleeper hold.

Simple, amazing tacos. Photo by Sergi Depazos

The tacos are prepared before your eyes, right at the eight seat bar, inside a room that couldn't fit more than 20 people at capacity. The fillings are pulled from refrigerated Tupperware and combined with hotplate-warmed tortillas.

There's no pomp and circumstance or frilly garnish. Just damned tasty, slapped-together food made from real Mexican recipes.

The guys who work here are happy and charming, almost bashful that I could love their food enough to come back for it twice. They definitely don't get many English speakers. I've never seen the place without at least ten people inside, mostly local Spanish foodies who know what great Mexican food tastes like.

At €1.50 a taco, it's among Madrid’s best bargains. The €5 margaritas are freshly prepared and not from a mix – they rival the food in authenticity.

Taquería Mi Ciudad
34 608 621 096
Calle de las Fuentes 11
Madrid, Spain

Community Connection

Tom Gates travels and eats. He’s managed to find authentic italian food in Bangkok and is rather opinionated about pizza . He has a history of binge eating, as documented in pieces about Berlin and Buenos Aires.

]]> http://matadornights.com/the-best-taco-in-madrid/feed/ 6 http://matadornights.com/top-five-curry-and-pint-combinations-in-manchester/ http://matadornights.com/top-five-curry-and-pint-combinations-in-manchester/#comments Fri, 18 Jun 2010 20:28:25 +0000 Sarah Irving http://matadornights.com/?p=9276

Punjab by Night; All Photos: Sarah Irving

To the south of Manchester city centre lies Rusholme, home to the original Curry Mile. the combination of a large South Asian community and lots of hungry students has given rise to a range of curry restaurants which attract an estimated 65,000 diners per week to this stretch of Wilmslow Road.

But the city has many other great places to eat South Asian food, and some of Britain’s best pubs, so don’t limit yourself.

It’s tough work to pick out the best of Curry Mile, but someone’s gotta do it. For glitz try the Shere Khan, the Hanaan or the Mughli.

Night Lights of Rusholme

The Sangam is friendly and has great food, but the smaller Punjab is worth a special mention for its amiable staff and wide-ranging menu. It’s the only restaurant on the strip to serve dosas (huge, crispy South Indian pancakes with various fillings) alongside the usual bhunas, baltis and dansaks. It also has famously good vegetarian choices, with rare delicacies such as tinda (baby gourds).

On the off chance that you’re not stuffed, skip the run-of-the-mill desserts offered by even the best curry houses, and head to the Sanam Sweethouse for fragrant Indian sweets.

Avoid the many mediocre watering holes around Rusholme and head for the Albert (5 Walmer Street), a traditional South Manchester Irish pub. It’s a snug, slightly tatty place with photographs of Irish literary greats on the walls. The Whitworth, overlooking Whitworth Park, isn’t a bad place, although it helps if you like Guns ‘n Roses.

Sanam Sweet House

Further on the bus out of town is Withington where Moon Restaurant is dependably good, but the Red Lion pub is the main draw.

This seventeenth century coaching inn (which hosted Withington’s ‘court leet,’ a leftover of the area’s medieval privileges, until 1841) has plenty of cozy seating inside, but if the weather’s up to it, search out the benches overlooking the bowling green at the back, preferably with a pint of Marston’s Pedigree.

Forget the overpriced, shiny restaurants of Manchester’s ‘regenerated’ city centre and head into the Northern Quarter for huge portions of authentic South Asian food and ridiculously low prices.

Hanaan

Set up to serve workers from the neighbourhood’s textile wholesalers, gems like Kabana (Back Turner Street) and This ‘N’ That (3 Soap Street, off Thomas Street) serve up regularly-changing menus of meat and vegetarian dishes and the famous ‘rice + three’ offers – rice and three curries, usually for less than a fiver. Most are only open until mid/late afternoon, so if you’re combining with a pint, you’re looking at a boozy lunch or an early start.

In contrast to the scrubbed-down basics of the curry houses, the up-and-coming Northern Quarter’s bars are bohemian and trendy.

But in amongst some of the more vacuous newcomers nestle Dry Bar, a classic venue of 1980s/90s Madchester, and live music stalwart Night & Day (both on Oldham Street).

Cord (8 Dorsey Street) has fat leather armchairs and an interesting range of bottled beers, and Odd (30-32 Thomas Street) is the place to head for trashy glitz and strange spirits.

The palatial Nawaab looms over the main Stockport Road in Levenshulme. A converted cinema, it seats hundreds, but at the weekend you may still have to wait in the bar to get a seat for the buffet, with its vast array of dishes.

Catering to its Muslim fan base, the Nawaab is alcohol-free, but for a great pint head back towards Manchester city centre and turn right down to 170 Barlow Road. On the corner near Levenshulme Library is the Blue Bell, a genuine community pub. Landlord Mark Dunn runs gardening competitions for the local kids and offers the side room to residents’ and campaign groups.

This is a Sam Smith’s pub and, luckily for anyone drinking there, it serves a wide range of the traditional Tadcaster Brewery’s excellent beers, ranging from lager, through a range of real ales, to dark porters and the wonderful Oatmeal Stout. In true Sam Smith’s tradition, they are all at bargain prices.

Curry-lovers on a diet should head for Chorlton.

At 489-491 Barlow Moor Road, Asian Fusion’s contemporary take on Indian food includes ’sizzler’ dishes, spicy but without the drowning of ghee that piles calories onto many curries.

Leftovers from Asian Fusion

20 minutes walk east takes you to Coriander, which also serves excellent low-fat, fresh, additive-free Bangladeshi food, with especially good vegetarian choices.

Next door to Asian Fusion is the Azad Manzil, a more traditional option, established in 1964.

Chorlton has a bewildering array of places to drink, including old school pubs such as the Trevor and the Beech – good for pints in plastic cups to drink on the Green in good weather. The Bar on Wilbraham Road is always lively.

Marble on a Sunny Day

But for really outstanding beer, head to the Marble at 57 Manchester Road. This unassuming little pub serves a range of beers from the Marble Brewery, a microbrewery in East Manchester whose main pub, the Marble Arch, isn’t on this list solely because of its desolate location on the fringes of several industrial estates.

It’s worth a visit, though, for its splendid Victorian tiling – and superb organic, vegan beers. Marble Chorlton standards include Lagonda IPA, Manchester Bitter and Ginger Marble (yes, it does taste of ginger), but there are often seasonal and festival specials.

Community Connection

Whether your travels are taking you outside “the Venice of the North” (AKA Manchester) or not, you’ll want to check into Matador’s UK focus page. From transportation to sight seeing and volunteering and where to eat and drink, we’ve consolidated our resources for your perusal.

Photo provided by Lumpia Cart

“You know we’re going to smell like the shameful side of a deep fryer,” I say to my roommate as he consolidates our empty food plates into neat stacks.

We’re in the Castro tonight for Dirty Dishes, a semimonthly event that fuses music, drinks, and a rotating cast of some of San Francisco’s most popular street food vendors into one steamy night of immediate gratification. Lumpia Cart is serving up a storm beside us; there’s no way we’ll get out of here without smelling like food.

Adobo Hobo Cart, Photo by Gary Soup

The growing street food trend in San Francisco began sometime in the rainy spring months of 2009 and has emerged on the other side of this year infused with a veritable personality of its own.

More intimate than the food trucks swarming the parking lots of Los Angeles and friendlier than the steel carts lining the concrete in New York, the street food carts here build friendships with their customers, support each other’s businesses, and organize collective social and charity events.

At 27, Abe Espiritu, of Lumpia Cart, is the youngest of the cart men. Having gotten into the food cart business last August, the second generation Filipino entrepreneur didn’t initially realize how many people had no idea what lumpia was.

“I just thought, hey, let’s sell some lumpia to some late night club goers,” Espiritu says of his initial idea for the business coming from watching the bacon-wrapped hot dog vendors camped outside clubs and bars late at night. “When I first started, a lot of people came up to me and were like, ‘what’s this stuff?’ I’d tell them, ‘look, just try it, it’s like an egg roll.’ They would, and they would love it.”

Of course, what’s not to love about fried finger foods?

That many people are unaware of lumpias ultimately contributed to Espiritu’s socio-ethnic ambitions, as his ideas about the future of his lumpia cart business now plume into ubiquity, making the crunchy egg rolls a regular food option for American consumption rather than remaining a foray into “foreign and ethnic” cuisine.

Espiritu (R) with his lumpia cart partner at work.

To be fair, the first time I ate a lumpia was from Lumpia Cart, and I was with my roommate whose mother is Filipino.

“What do you think of the lumpia?” I had asked my roommate, meaning whether or not he thought we should buy them.

“They look like lumpia,” he said flatly.

Well.

It’s only after he answered this way that I started to think about the motivations for my question. Sharing the same space that night with Lumpia Cart was Creme Brulee Cart, Curtis Kimball, and his brother Magic Curry Cart, Brian Kimball. Going in, I had quickly made the assumption that night that all carts were sharing their foods to show off their superior cooking skills.

And I, as someone with taste buds too big for their britches, was there to decide whether or not I agreed with their culinary assertions. It didn’t occur to me that maybe the challenge was never issued, that the cart men could possibly have other reasons for starting their businesses.

Creme Brulee Cart, Photo by calmenda

“I don’t have professional culinary training [and] I’m not trying to go all gourmet,” Espiritu, who uses his first-generation Filipino mother’s recipe to make his lumpia, says. “I’m just making good food for good people.”

This warm and fuzzy sentiment of community has been expressed before by other food cart vendors when asked what keeps them hustling in the game, especially a game that takes more hard work than provides cold, hard cash.

Espiritu’s two-word answer: “It’s fun.”

Through starting a food cart business, Espiritu has expanded his social circle exponentially. Journalists fly from New York and Vancouver to try his food and record his original sound-bites. Customers all over the bay area follow his twitter to track his transient locations. Other carts, such as Adobo Hobo and Soul Cocina, engage him in email chains coordinating cross-promotion.

“And look,” he gestures at me, “I got to meet you too.”

I think about this as I reach for the peach-spearmint hookah at our table. We’ve been sitting at Morac lounge in the Mission District for two hours now, smoking from a hookah, discussing Filipino foods, and drinking very fresh and very SF cucumber cocktails.

Life should always be this fun. And, tasty.

Community Connection

Street food has long been a common and popular way to eat out in other parts of the world. Check out MatadorTV’s videos on the Indian street food and Vietnamese street food scenes.

Photo by jaredlyon

Cooking animelles (you know) is taken so seriously that there’s a yearly World Testicle Cooking Championship held each year in Serbia. There’s even a cookbook available for scrotum enthusiasts.

Photo by benjaminlhaas

Here are five places where you're guaranteed to get what you came for.

The American West (Bull)

Known as Rocky Mountain Oysters (or Prairie Oysters), these balls hail from the nether-regions of bulls or buffaloes. They are “peeled” (yelp), coated in flour and fried. In a final act of indignity, some chefs prefer to cook them only after they’ve been pounded flat.

Photo by viognier

Eagle, Idaho's ballsy fire department puts on the "World's Largest Rocky Mountain Oyster Feed" as a fund raiser. There's also a testicle festival in Elderon, Wisconsin. More than 300 people gathered for the last all-you-can-eat goat, lamb and bull testicle meal.

Taiwan (Rooster)

As Nellie Haung reported on Matador last year, rooster testicles are “bigger than you’d imagine, with thin veins and a tight plump texture.” They’re easily found in Tapei’s Snake Alley.

Philippines (Bull)

Fan’s of Andrew Zimmern’s Bizarre Foods might be enlightened about bull’s rectum and testicle soup, which is served piping hot in the Philippines. This adapted version of oxtail soup is found in Philippines and pretty much combines everything back there into one pot.

Lancashire, England (Lamb)

Photo by horatio3k

Guess what Lamb Fries aren't? Correct: They're not potato based. These ditties are lamb testicles coated with cracked meal, then fried, as most balls usually are. Who said that food sucked in the UK?

While they are also served in Oklahoma and Indonesia, Lancashire has allegedly developed a particular taste for these particular balls.

China (Everything)

You’ll have no problem finding testicles in China. You’re likely to find almost any variety, including dog, ox, deer and goat. Many restaurants (or carts) allow you to peruse your options before they’re cooked on skewers.

Community Connection

Into worldly food? Be sure to check out Ripped Knickers and Other Chilean Food. We’ve also shed a little light on how Canadians treat a hangover with extreme grease and were happy to binge eat in Bangkok.

]]> http://matadornights.com/five-places-to-go-when-you-have-the-urge-to-eat-balls/feed/ 10 http://matadornights.com/a-jersey-girls-top-picks-for-new-york-style-pizza-in-san-diego/ http://matadornights.com/a-jersey-girls-top-picks-for-new-york-style-pizza-in-san-diego/#comments Wed, 02 Jun 2010 04:54:51 +0000 Morgan Leahy deBoer http://matadornights.com/?p=9024

Photos by author.

Nostalgic for East Coast pizza, Morgan Leahy visited over forty of San Diego’s pizza joints during three months, hoping to find the perfect pie. She gives us five that passed the test.

I grew up in New Jersey and, at a very young age, I learned a rule from my dad that I adhered to for a long time – never eat pizza south of Philadelphia or west of Trenton. There was no rule about how north was too north, but I always assumed it was somewhere in Connecticut.

I live in San Diego now and, on a recent trip home, I broke the news to my family that I liked the pizza in California. At first they were shocked. Then they offered me a challenge – find a real New York Style pizza in San Diego. Hopefully they wouldn’t be among the worst in the world.

I gauged each restaurant in comparison with a Platonic ideal of a pizzeria; the pizza’s look (greasy, sort of burned on top with a crisp doughy outer crust and a very thin bottom crust), the pizza’s taste (spicy sauce, cheesy but not too cheesy) and of course the pizzeria’s décor.

Hoboken.

Hoboken

Hoboken is named after a city in New Jersey, the birthplace of Sinatra. I was pretty excited the first time that I tried their pizza. I felt like I was back in my hometown. It might have been the Bruce Springsteen posters on the walls or the Rutgers t-shirt that the pizza chef was wearing, but it felt authentic.

This little black building is dimly light, a no-frills store front with ripped black vinyl booths. It is on one of the busiest blocks in Pacific Beach, the young party neighborhood of San Diego.

Be prepared for a hot slice of pizza. Really hot. It will be crispy but so floppy you may have to fold it.

For me, one signature of a good New York style pizza is the grease, and Hoboken has got it. Don’t blot your pizza with a napkin, even if you end up with a completely see-through paper plate when you’re done eating. This laid-back pizzeria is the type of place you can crack open a grape soda, cover your slice with parmesan and oregano and watch a couple of innings of the Yankees game.

Pizzeria Luigi

Bronx Pizza.

Luigi’s has the best (and some say the only) New York Style pizza in San Diego. They have two locations, one in North Park and one in Golden Hill. Go to the one in Golden Hill. It’s just better.

I ate only plain slices for this project and really paid attention to the sauce – theirs is so tangy that it is almost spicy (so memorable a taste that I compared every other pizza’s sauce to theirs). Their crust is great too.

When ordering a slice of pizza, it should be reheated for you in an oven. That is a fact. Sometimes, it will be a little blackened. Unavoidable. But it should never taste like it was just on fire. Luigi’s does a better job of this than any other pizzeria that I have tried because their thin crust is both crunchy and soft.

My husband and I can’t agree on which pizzeria from New Jersey is our favorite but we both think that Luigi’s is the best in San Diego.

Newport Pizza.

Newport Pizza and Ale House

This pizzeria and bar is a couple of blocks from the Ocean Beach Pier. You can see the water from their dog and cigarette-friendly patio. There is often a crowd on the patio boisterously interacting with anyone walking on the side walk

Newport is usually crowded and loud. The beer list has some craft beer that I have never heard of. Before this project I had tried a few of their pizzas like “The Hulk” (Pesto, Artichoke Hearts, Sun Dried Tomato, Mushroom & Olive-Feta) and “The Homer Simpson” (Chicken, Honey Mustard, Onion & Cheddar), which are what I consider West Coast style but the cheese slice (AKA The Chuck Norris) is definitely a classic New York style slice. Definitely a topping lover’s haven.

Be prepared to eat and drink more than you meant to at Newport Pizza.

Lefty’s

Lefty’s is advertised as a Chicago style pizzeria, and it is, but it is included in this list because they had two types of cheese pizza. The thinner crust was a true New York style pie. Their pizza has a liberal dose of sauce and a great deal of cheese. Overall a pretty big mess. I think that might be the best part about Lefty’s; they know their homemade sauce and their cheese are good so they give you twice as much of both.

When I first visited, there was a lot of commotion and talking and yelling and PBR on tap and the wearing of Chicago Cubs hats. I went back a second time and found more of the same. The sassy girls behind the counter make me laugh. I will be back for a third time.

Bronx Pizza

Bronx was recommended by a few New York natives. The New York paraphernalia (although there is a lot of it) didn’t seem annoying and I felt at home with the pizza guys yelling at me to come pick up my slices, already. If you are ordering a whole pie, try to get someone’s attention through the window outside. If you are ordering slices, walk inside and pick something they have in the case.

The slices, by the way, are pretty great.

Theirs is a pizza dedicated to cheese and a thin crust. I appreciate that. It was difficult to only order a basic cheese slice on the day I tested Bronx Pizza, because the white and pepperoni slices (they only serve the classics) looked so good. The rumor around town (and the internet) is that they have water from The Bronx shipped in to make their perfect crusts.

Where’s your perfect Southern California slice? We’d love to hear about it in the replies.

Community Connection

Matador will eat you around the world. From binge eating in Berlin to attacking churrasco in Brazil to asian rooster balls, you can eat it all here.

]]> http://matadornights.com/a-jersey-girls-top-picks-for-new-york-style-pizza-in-san-diego/feed/ 7 http://matadornights.com/what-to-eat-in-philadelphia-besides-cheesesteak/ http://matadornights.com/what-to-eat-in-philadelphia-besides-cheesesteak/#comments Tue, 25 May 2010 03:38:44 +0000 Valerie Ng http://matadornights.com/?p=8904

Photos by author.

Philadelphia may be home to the cheesesteak, but you should take a break from comparing Pat’s with Geno’s and Jim’s to sample what this food-loving city has to offer.

Huitlacoche Quesadillas

Even though I’m from California, and lived within a half-hour drive of the Mexican border for 4 years, I’d never tried those quesadillas filled with corn smut until I encountered them at La Lupe, located in of all places, the Italian Market on 9th Street.

These days, the market is becoming increasingly Mexican, with Spanish music blaring from radios and restaurants offering tastes from south of the border. Just down the street from shops selling fresh pasta and cured meats, you can find tacos and quesadillas to rival any found in Southern California.

Hand-drawn Noodles

The Chinese have had a presence in Philadelphia since 1860, and today its Chinatown is the third-largest in the United States. An ethnic quarter of that size usually means that there are a good number of authentic restaurants to savor, including Nan Zhou Hand Drawn Noodle House, specializing in China’s famous hand-stretched pasta.

While you won’t see the chef stretching and flinging dough at this low-key restaurant, the noodles are nice and chewy, and the egg and vegetable option, at $4 for a generously portioned bowl, makes for a refreshing, bargain-priced meal.

Malaysian food

Philadelphia’s Asian food scene isn’t limited to the cuisine of China. Philly is home to a number of Malaysian restaurants, which offer tropical, spiced up dishes like mango chicken and Indian mee goreng. If you’ve been sampling cheesesteaks, you’ll probably need a break from the cheez whiz.

Banana Leaf in Chinatown is one popular and inexpensive choice, while Aqua, a stone’s throw from the site where the founding fathers declared their independence, offers a more chic setting.

Ice Cream

I’m convinced that the best Italian-style gelato to be found outside Italy is in Philadelphia, at Capogiro Gelato’s three downtown locations. The Thai coconut milk flavor is probably the most heavenly I’ve ever tasted, although the fruit flavors are very nice as well, especially since many are locally sourced from Lancaster County farms.

But if it’s an all-American scoop of vanilla or cookies and cream that you’re looking for, Bassett’s Ice Cream has been serving up classic favorites from behind its historic counter in the Reading Terminal Market since 1893. If you want to be decadent and go for a hot fudge sundae or banana split, Franklin Fountain, though less than a decade old, successfully recreates the old-fashioned ice cream parlor and soda fountain experience.

Water Ice

Unlike the coarse icy texture of the snow cones you grew up with, water ice, Philly speak for Italian ice, is smooth and fruity, which makes for a refreshing way to cool off on a hot, humid Philadelphia summer day. There are a number of stands and shops selling the popular treat around the city, including Rita’s Water Ice and Philadelphia Water Ice franchises.

Israeli food

Yet another international cuisine is on display in one of the city’s most renowned restaurants. Zahavcelebrates the Israeli heritage of the head chef, and does so ingeniously. It’s best to come with friends so you can sample an array of the delicious Mediterranean-style small plates, like hummus, house-made merguez, and Cypriotic sheep’s milk cheese, all prepared to perfection.

There’s not a single falafel to be found in this classy restaurant.

Brunch

Brunch is my favorite meal, and it’s hard to pass up a good brunch spot. Sabrina’s Cafe, with two locations, is a local favorite. The menu is extensive, filled with an enticing array of sweet and savory morning dishes like stuffed caramelized challah French toast with vanilla bean maple syrup and the egg white frittata with turkey bacon, spinach, tomatoes, and provolone.

Vegetarians are easily accommodated here, and those who feel left out of the city’s cheesesteak craze can consider trying Sabrina’s meatless version made with seitan.

Brunch can also be found inside the famed Reading Terminal Market. The Dutch Eating Place serves up Amish breakfasts, while Down Home Diner, evocative of the classic diners of the 1950s, has a southern flavor. Both locations offer scrapple, a local invention of pork scraps and trimmings combined with cornmeal, flour, and spices formed into a mush.

Community Connection

Matador is seeped with writing about food and travel. Spend a little time here and you’ll realize that we’re capable about writing about everything from bread sculpted like body parts, to New York’s best desserts to juicy burger porn.

]]> http://matadornights.com/what-to-eat-in-philadelphia-besides-cheesesteak/feed/ 1 http://matadornights.com/haute-pot-cuisine/ http://matadornights.com/haute-pot-cuisine/#comments Fri, 21 May 2010 03:56:07 +0000 Kate Sedgwick http://matadornights.com/?p=8844

Inside the Ritz Carlton San Francisco where you can sample chef Ron Siegel’s Lincecum: Minette Layne

Rebecca Cathcart’s NY Times piece, “Marijuana Fuels a New Kitchen Culture,” is as all over the map as marijuana culture itself.

Drugs and alcohol are the fuel of the service industry. In high school, most of my stoner buddies were working in restaurants and as ‘experimentation’ became habit, high school diploma or not, most of them stayed in kitchens or serving tables, moving on to fine dining establishments as the years wore on.

Bourdain – a mouthpiece of the awkwardly named ‘haute
stoner cuisine’ movement.
Photo and feature photo: richcianci

One thing didn’t change: the steady supply and use of drugs and alcohol that turns that pasted on smile worn while turning tables, or the grim look of concentration worn while coordinating 20 orders at the same time into a perma-grin at the end of the night as the staff go from serving to being served in bars.

Cathcart’s piece seems mainly to be based on a theory posited by Anthony Bourdain that the new wave in extra-satisfying, stimulating food, be it from a mobile taco cart or the Ritz Carton is the result of marijuana fueled inspiration and cravings.

‘There has been an entire strata of restaurants created by chefs to feed other chefs,’ Mr. Bourdain said. ‘These are restaurants created specially for the tastes of the slightly stoned, slightly drunk chef after work.’

While much credit seems to be given to pot here, little is given to the organic/slow food movements and their rebellion against the mass produced product readily available in every restaurant and grocery store.

No mention is made of a food culture that is forced to compete with our ever rising need for stimulation based on technology and the speed of our societies, or the need to vie for attention with scientifically developed food designed to keep us craving it that is readily available at fast food restaurants from the US to Thailand.

According to Bourdain, Crif Dog is an indication of a movement
afoot (long). jasonlam

While stoner chef Vinny Dotolo is quoted as saying, “I always call it the Big Mac effect,” going on to extol the virtues of the flavors and textures of the burger, and further, “It’s that thing where you’re trying to hit all the senses,” we read nothing of the consumer aspect of this phenomenon and the way it has shaped our tastes and desires as a culture.

I guess that’s not what the article is about, but it seems pertinent. Especially as we seem to be on the cusp of marijuana becoming another legal commodity.

Is it any wonder when we can get KFC’s Double Down (a lab developed “sandwich” that combines two chicken patties dunked in a chemical bath of batter gang banging some jack cheese and a hefty portion of bacon into submission and slathered in “Colonel’s Sauce”) for $5 in less than five minutes that chefs are developing dishes like the Lincecum?

The old standby. Remember The Bell. quinn.anya

Really, I’m surprised that there are no combination spoon/remote controls and that a chef has yet to develop a four course meal with a big screen in surround sound, each course coordinated to be delivered during crucial plot points in classic movies (Sicilan with The Godfather, Mexican with Like Water for Chocolate) for a deeper experience. Should we just chalk it up to marijuana culture and leave it at that?

Increasing portion size may have less to do with kitchen culture’s shift from cocaine (which I’m sure is alive and well there as it ever was) to marijuana and more to do with our culture’s demands in a more global way.

If one thing will never change it’s that those who are in love with pot are likely to connect everything to it besides the fact that they can’t remember where they put their keys – and that includes trends in cuisine.

While there seems to be an emphasis on quality of ingredients and the cuisine in general, as parallels are drawn within the article to the gourmet-ification of coffee, food, liquor and even the marijuana itself, there is a way in which many of these dishes seem out of reach of the average person who will satisfy their munchies like any other kitchen scrub when we’ve spent our last $100 bill on that bag of weed – over at the Taco Bell.

]]> http://matadornights.com/haute-pot-cuisine/feed/ 2 http://matadornights.com/the-montreal-24-hour-greasy-spoon-index-5-spots-for-late-night-noshing/ http://matadornights.com/the-montreal-24-hour-greasy-spoon-index-5-spots-for-late-night-noshing/#comments Thu, 20 May 2010 02:29:47 +0000 Daniel Baylis http://matadornights.com/?p=8774

Montréal by Night: slasher-fun, Feature Photo of poutine at La Banquise: sashafatcat

There is nothing that closes off a killer night out like a burger, some greasy fries and a soda. The fat and carbs from neon-bathed diners help to absorb the evening’s over-consumption, thus reducing the potential of an inconvenient hangover.

In fact, the restorative properties of poutine, for example, have been proven by scientists. And by “scientists” I mean “frat-boys-who-study-leisure-sciences.” I don’t necessarily trust that crowd, but their research has been an integral contribution to formulating a perfect party night. The last leg of an epic evening ends better with comfort food.

Here are 5 Montréal greasy spoons to keep your adventures fuelled.

La Banquisse

La Banquise by day: yawper

Voted #1 “Best Late-Night Eats” by Montréalers, La Banquise is Montréal’s poutine institution. There are poutines here that you never knew existed, such as the Kamikaze Poutine (Merguez sausage, hot peppers and Tabasco).

If your gurgling stomach can’t take the heat, they have classic poutine down to an art form. Simple and delicious.

994 Rachel East

Al-Taib

The hot Lebanese bakery infamous among students and 24-hour party people, this is a great choice for cheap, but delicious eats. The Manakish is a mainstay of the bakery, but they also serve up pizza and salads. Finish up with fresh baklava. It’s Arabic fast food done right.

2125 Guy Street

Le Club Sandwich

Le Club Sandwich: aaronx

This classic style diner in the Gay Village features tons of table space and the comforting pulse of dance remixes. In the summer, stretch out under the stars on their patio. Go for the club sandwich. Obviously.

1578 Sainte-Catherine East

Rapido

The spacious orange/brown/pink booths provide the perfect cocoons to for those feeling over-stimulated from techno music excess.

Inside Rapido: Claire L. Evans

Expect truck-stop portions (select from the 24-hour breakfast menu) and a crusty Russian waitress. Unlimited coffee and snarkiness included.

4494 St. Denis

Angela Pizzeria

Throughout the streets of Montréal, you’ll find “$0.99” pizza joints scattered like Celine Dion albums at a used record shop. If you’re in a pinch, they’ll suffice. However if you’re hankerin’ for quality, Angela delivers a crispy crust and generous toppings. No seriously, she’ll deliver it if you want.

1662 de Maisonneuve West

Community Connection

New York to Montréal by train – it might be cheaper than you think. Get out of the city, heck, the country!

Looking for something else to do in Montréal? MatadorTravel might have some answers for you.

]]> http://matadornights.com/the-montreal-24-hour-greasy-spoon-index-5-spots-for-late-night-noshing/feed/ 1 http://matadornights.com/10-arguably-odd-things-things-that-people-put-on-pizza/ http://matadornights.com/10-arguably-odd-things-things-that-people-put-on-pizza/#comments Wed, 19 May 2010 02:02:55 +0000 Tom Gates http://matadornights.com/?p=8590

Pizza de Cuy? Photo = mashup by Kate Sedgwick using photos by palindrome6996 and The Pizza Review.

Emu

The Australian Heritage Hotel in Sydney offers many odd pizza choices. What could be crazier than Salt Water Crocodile or Pepper Kangaroo? In my book: BBQ Emu. For those not familiar, an emu is a large, f-ugly, flightless bird that looks like it’s carrying a tiki hut on its back. I’m betting that it doesn’t taste like chicken.

French Fries. Gnarly. Photo by author.

Labane

Sometimes used as a pizza-enhancer in Israel, Labane is a sour, strained yoghurt-cheese. Pictures of labane make me think that this somehow might be a winner – if a cheese as tart as goat cheese can work on more exotic pies, why couldn’t this one? A close relative, paneer, is often used in India.

Squid Ink

You can always count on Japan for turning food concepts on their head. This pizza finds tomato sauce replaced by the goo that comes out of a squid’s funnel. Given its notoriety for staining, I can only imagine that any mouth would look like that of a zombie after eating this pie.

Mayonnaise

Order a Mayo Jaga pizza in Japan and you’ll get mayonnaise, potato and bacon. I’m completely confused why the British didn’t create this pizza first, as it combines three of the most beloved recipe ingredients in the whole Kingdom.

Cuy (Guinea Pig)

The emu that men do. Photo by fboosman

Not only is it a great first pet, it’s also perfect when smooshed with cheese. Pizzas de Cuy have been sighted in the Andes, where eating this animal appears to be a delicacy. The meat is high in protein and low in fat and cholesterol, which makes it a much more appealing option than KFC’s Double Down.

Plenty of Fish

Many kinds of fish have been tossed on pizza, including the disgusting bacala concept. What beats that? A “mockba” pizza in Russia will allegedly land you toppings that include sardines, tuna, mackerel and salmon. Call it an aquarium on a pie.

French Fries

This egregious toppings is a parlour trick for tourists. I’ve seen it many tourist traps around the globe and can report that it tastes soppy and oily. Steer clear! This is among the worst in the world.

Corn

What’s on your strange pizza? Photo by bdlandis

A hot debate on the pizza circuit, most people have a decisive opinion about as to whether corn should be involved in pizza making. Having never tried a pie with corn, I’d probably vote “yes”, as long as it was on the sweet and softer side and not something bright yellow and from a can.

Grapes

Most likely based on the Tuscan classic grape focaccia, this fruit has infiltrated high end pizzerias and looks to be a new trend.

Gherkin

I draw the line at pickles but many others don’t, especially in New Zealand. Not only are gherkins on the menu at the Hell Pizza chain, but so is cranberry sauce. Ridiculous.

Kitchen at Chez Panisse (also used as Feature Photo): xmatt

With events like the annual “How Berkeley Can You Be” parade, it’s no wonder the name of this university town is used as an adjective.

Here are 10 of the city’s best, and very Berkeley, places to eat:

This is fast-food with a healthy conscience. Offering a range of freshly prepared burgers and veggie options, Smart Alec’s is also famous for its irresistible trademark garlic fries.

It’s popular with students, and if you bring in a paper or a test marked with an “A”, you get some of those delicious fries for free. Fast and healthy, Smart Alec’s lives up to its name.

2355 Telegraph Avenue
(510) 704-4000

Call Me for Some Overtime: m.gifford

Sometimes it’s just all about a big slice of hot, greasy pizza. Located on famous Telegraph Avenue, Blondie’s satisfies. Their massive pizza slices drip with cheesy goodness and make it a popular late-night destination for the ever-hungry student population.

Not really fussed with the hippy insistence on veggies and healthy options, the pizza here is just a straight up guilty-pleasure.

2340 Telegraph Avenue
(510) 548-1129

This old-fashioned family-operated Italian gastronomical shop has several locations in the Bay Area, each of them top-notch. They have a range of deli sandwiches, savory salads, and intriguing Italian dishes on offer that you can taste before buying.

A favorite meal choice is often simply a freshly-baked bread stick, an aromatic hunk of cheese, and a glass of house wine. Not too expensive, A. G. Ferrari’s makes Italy’s best artisanal cheeses and wines seem at home in Berkeley.

1843 Solano Avenue
(510) 559-6860

Naan at Naan ‘n’ Curry: takaokun

Berkeley prides itself on multicultural diversity, so ethnic foods are definitely in. Although Naan ‘n’ Curry is technically a chain (there are five locations), it’s still got the charm of a local treasure and the authentic flavors of Pakistan and India to back it up.

The proximity to the university campus makes it an ideal student hangout, but it really caters to everyone. For those who like their food spicy, Naan ‘n’ Curry can pack a punch.

For those who prefer to keep it mild, perhaps try some of the cheesy Paneer Tikka Masala with garlic naan. This is Indian-Pakistani food with a laid-back California twist.

2366 Telegraph Avenue
(510) 841-6226

A Dish at Chez Panisse: xmatt

It’s not just hippy venues and student hangouts that define Berkeley. Arguably one of the most famous restaurants in the world is Chez Panisse.

Started by Alice Waters (herself a Berkeley alum), the restaurant is famed for pioneering what is known as “California cuisine”—food that focuses on being locally farmed, in season, sustainably grown, and of course, healthy.

The price of dinner is fairly expensive and the clientèle is well-to-do (Prince Charles and Camilla Parker Bowles dined there during their tour of Berkeley).

However for the average person wanting to try a taste, lunch is offered at an egalitarian and affordable price. This is Berkeley at its supreme best.

1517 Shattuck Avenue
(510) 548-5049

A Vegetarian Option, too?: bryangatebt

Top Dog is a much-loved local institution. Open late (3 AM on Fridays and Saturdays), it offers sizzling hot dogs in a range of unusual flavors.

Of course it wouldn’t be Berkeley without a veggie option and Top Dog does this right. The veggie sausage is packed with wheat protein, aubergine, garlic, and fennel, and is definitely worth a try whether you’re vegetarian or not.

2534 Durant Avenue
(510) 843-7250

Go to Jupiter: Genista

Jupiter has that perfect combination of warm ambience and great food. The character-rich venue is a converted brick-built Victorian stable and features live music, an inviting multi-tiered beer garden, and a selection of locally brewed beers (their honey wheat ale is a personal fave).

With a menu of gourmet wood-fired pizzas, a range of house brews, and a stylish old-world atmosphere, Jupiter pretty much gets everything right.

2181 Shattuck Avenue
(510) 843-8277

You might think that French cuisine and take-away would be antithetical, but Gregoire’s begs to differ.

Combining local, organic ingredients and French culinary craft, this small venue in Berkeley’s “Gourmet Ghetto” manages a lunch menu entirely under $10.

You can leave your preconceptions about take-away behind: Gregoire’s does something different, and does it well.

2109 Cedar Street
(510) 883-1893

Like the Sign Says…: savemejebus

Although it’s actually located in the bordering city of Emeryville, Can’t Fail Cafe gets honorary Berkeley status.

This diner has a strong punk vibe. Besides being named after a Clash song, it’s owned in part by the bassist from Green Day.
Staff wear edgy black t-shirts that say “Serving E-ville since 1984″.

A big draw is that the cafe is open at 1 AM and offers breakfast all day. Make sure to try some of the more unusual menu choices, like their Guinness milkshakes.

4081 Hollis Street, Emeryville
(510) 594-1221

This place is guaranteed to impress. Operated in conjunction with the nearby cooperative Cheese Board, this pizzaria has only one pizza option per day, always vegetarian.

Don’t let the lack of choice fool you—there’s cult-like following for the Cheese Board’s pizza. Always served piping-hot from the oven and topped with things like artichokes, Asiago cheese, olives, and pine nuts, it’s to die for.

The venue has a nice old piano and the streetfront is open-air, making it feel just about as friendly and inviting as Berkeley can be. (For the full experience, get some pizza and eat it picnic-style on the grassy median opposite the shop.)

1512 Shattuck Avenue
(510) 549-3183

Community Connection

From where to eat to where to hike, trip ideas, volunteer opportunities, and news, MatadorTravel’s Focus Page on California puts it all in one place.

If you’re going to be in the Bay Area, you’ll probably want to know What Not to Do in San Francisco.

Bawk Bawk. Photos by author.

A friend had posted a picture on his Facebook and I became intrigued. What could this bizarre concoction be? Had a fast food chain broken new ground? Had they invented…a new MEAT?

It turned out to be a photo of KFC’s Double Down, a ’sandwich’ which slaps two white meat chicken filets together with a filling of bacon, monterey jack cheese and Colonel’s Sauce (a white goo that tastes hollandaise-y but looks like whatever came out of the head of Ash from the movie Alien). One google later and I found out that it was the center of a country-wide debate.

And probably front page news at Chickens For The Ethical Treatment of Chicken’s newsletter, too.

Never one to shy away from a large meal, I zipped right over to KFC and ordered one. Stunt food or not, I was going to try it.

Ready for your close up?

Unwrapped, it’s an embarrassing thing to marvel at, as strange as being caught eyeing a new prosthetic leg or choosing between two marital aids. The bacon lipped out of the sandwich, as if it had already been positioned for a photo shoot. The goo oozed perfectly and the cheese looked like it’d been tarted up for a TV commercial, half-melted but not runny. I was thankful for the wrapper that held the whole thing together, lest something grime up my fingers real bad-like.

If KFC’s goal was to create a Frankenstein sandwich, something foreign and bizarre, then they succeeded. This was not anything like a burger, or even some of the crazy churascos I’d seen.

One bite in and I knew that I wasn’t going the distance. An overpowering salty taste hit the system first, followed by a bit of spicy sauce that felt like it was poured straight from a gallon jug that’d been purchased at the dollar store. The two fillets were indeed juicy, but the double-juicy factor made it feel just plain strange without some kind of bread. Imagine eating a warm popsicle. It made no sense.

The guts.

The whole affair was a bit too boingy. I wondered if it might not be a late night kind of item, one that you love at the minute but regret a dizzy mile later. It wasn’t bad. It just wasn’t good and certainly didn’t feel good for me. It made me wonder if British food wasn’t that terrible, after all.

I was left hoping that this new trend of creating something outrageous just for the sake of it would not have legs, that this was something a hungry world wouldn’t substantiate. That people with thinking minds could ignore and blast past. Then I ate the strip of bacon that was left laying there.

We are a weak people, really.

Photo and Feature Photo: Marshall Astor – Food Pornographer

Almost 100 restaurants in the Kansas City area dedicate their menu solely to barbecue or at least specialize. Kansas City barbecue is an experience where men can feel like men, women can feel like men and children can smear sauce on their faces and not be scolded. It is not an experience for the faint of heart or the indecisive. The general motto of Kansas City barbecue is: “if you’re going to stay, grab a tray; if you’re going to go, don’t be slow.”

The Good

In the early 1900s, Henry Perry moved from Memphis to one of the birthplaces of jazz -18th and Vine in Kansas City. He began slow cooking barbecue over a pit in an old barn, and Kansas City barbecue was born.

Photo of rib tips at Arthur Bryants: Mike Willis

The Bryant brothers learned from Perry, and eventually bought and developed the restaurant into one of the world’s best barbecue joints. The tradition continues; according to manager Quincy Echols, the restaurant still slow cooks their meat over hickory and oak, two of the best hardwoods for roasting. The thick and smooth sauce on the side delights with flavors of molasses, tomato, peppers and just a hint of vinegar.

You’ll be in good company at Arthur Bryant’s; former presidents Jimmy Carter and Harry Truman have enjoyed the brisket at Arthur Bryant’s, as have Steven Spielberg, Jack Nicholson, and Bryant Gumbel. As prestigious as the clientele has been, reservations are not accepted.

When it’s your turn, don’t hesitate. Ask for the beef-rib combo – a mound of sweet and tender brisket on Wonder bread and a side of ribs with a couple of pickles thrown on. You can get your dinner wrapped in paper to go, but I prefer eating at one of the café diner tables, at times literally rubbing elbows with fellow diners.

1727 Brooklyn Avenue, Kansas City, MO
816-231-1123

Three things may put you off of Oklahoma Joe’s: the restaurant is outside of the BBQ zone in the 18th and Vine area, it’s inside a gas station, and the line at lunch is often out the door and around the block.

Don’t let this throw you. There’s a reason it’s busy. Jeff Stehney and his wife started the restaurant over 12 years ago after winning hundreds of barbecue contests around the country with their team, Slaughterhouse Five. For both the owners and the customers here barbecue is a pursuit and a passion.

“You can drive by a dozen barbecue places before you get to Joe’s, but the reason you sneak out of the office for a two hour lunch, is to come to a place like this,” says Stehney.

It’s a place where you can relax in a casual and fun environment. It’s not classy, but it’s functional and matter of fact, much like the customers. There is a sense of community, though half the clientele may be in suits and the other half in coveralls.

If you’re in a quandary on what to get at Joe’s, get the pulled pork. It’s known as the best in town, with smoky, spicy flavor and tender enough that it almost melts in your mouth. And if it’s the best pulled pork in Kansas City, it’s the best in the world.

3002 W. 47th Avenue, Kansas City, KS
913-722-3366

“Hi, may I help you” are the first words out of staffers mouths as you enter Gates, though it’s more a yelled demand than a friendly greeting. The staff may not seem welcoming and the atmosphere can seem closed to outsiders at first, but ask for burnt ends with confidence.

Photo of Gates and Sons: The DLC

Typically, burnt food is trash, but these bits of meat cut from the ends of a smoked brisket are smothered in barbecue sauce and loaded onto a sandwich. The dish is a legend in Kansas City, and as you lick the last bit of thick, sweet sauce from your fingers, you’ll know why.

Arthur Pinkard was one of the cooks for Perry, and he later joined forces with the Gates family. There is a subtle difference to the sauce at Gates. It has a bit more molasses. Spot a Gates restaurant (there are six in Kansas City) by the red roof and sign featuring a man in a top hat. Inside you’re more likely to see seed caps and trucker hats, so dress casual and be prepared to get a bit messy, and you’ll fit right in.

1221 Brooklyn Avenue, Kansas City, MO
816-384-3880.

The Beautiful

One of the poshest places to eat barbecue in Kansas City, Fiorella’s Jack Stack Barbecue has five locations across Kansas City. Overalls aren’t as welcome here, though you can still go casual.

Photo wings from Fiorella’s: Michele Hubacek aka the Choctopus

With an oak bar and leather chairs, it is the best bbq in the heart of the Kansas City Country Club Plaza, the entertainment, art and shopping district with romantic Mediterranean style architecture, statues and dozens of fountains. Definitely a place for a romantic evening of juicy, delicious barbecue.

Fiorella’s is one of the only places in the city to get barbecued seafood. The menu also has a much wider range with soups and salads and enough options that you could, though I don’t know why you would, get an entire meal there that wasn’t doused in barbecue sauce.

While some purists may say this takes Fiorella’s out of the running for authentic Kansas City barbecue, you can get the complete variety of more traditional Kansas City barbecue items from burnt ends to prime rib.

4747 Wyandotte Street, Kansas City, MO
816-531-7427.

BB’s Lawnside Barbecue was opened in 1990, and it brings together two Kansas City traditions – good barbecue and good jazz and blues music. Local groups play live every night and most Sunday nights at 6pm they feature house band Lee McBee & the Confessors, featuring old time soul favorites with Lee McBee on the harmonica. It definitely can get crowded on the weekend, so make sure to get there early and be prepared to get close with fellow diners and blues lovers.

The cooks smoke the ribs for 10 to 12 hours and the briskets for 14 to 16 hours in a granite barbecue pit before they’re served and they just melt in your mouth. Some of the dishes trend a bit more towards Louisiana barbecue, with a bit more spice. Try Smokey Jo’s Gumbo.

1205 E 85th St. Kansas City, MO
816-822-7427.

The Ugly

It can be difficult to find bad barbecue in Kansas City. With all the competition, each restaurant is looking to outdo the others in terms of quality and, on occasion, quantity. However, there are a some to avoid.

Photo from Hayward’s: The DLC

It just doesn’t have the kick and flavor that you want with meat on the dry side and fries on the greasy side.

600 Southwest Boulevard, Kansas City, Kansas

Hayward’s used to be a local favorite and more consistent with its food and service, and hopefully they turn back time and restore their former glory, but for now Hayward’s is sadly a has-been and definitely average barbecue experience.

11051 Antioch Road, Shawnee Mission, KS

Community Connection

Kansas City is one way to do barbecue, but it’s not the only way. Check out Barbecue Around the World right here on MatadorNights.

Still didn’t get enough Kansas City barbecue? Check out Huntington’s MatadorTravel Community blog about it or start your own.

A Man To Pet? Yep. Photo by Elizabeth Gleeson.

Behind closed doors, a price-fixed tasting menu awaits with wine or cocktails and, in the case of gypsy resto The Pale Blue Door, or culinary shenanigans courtesy of Ghetto Gourmet, your underground dining experience may be a supper club complete with entertainment.

What’s for dinner? Photo: theghet.com

The New Yorker recently covered a new food movement in France, “Le Fooding”, which is turning the country’s stodgy culinary image on its tush.

English celebrity chef Jamie Oliver is talking about a food revolution, while in the U.S. the slow food and organic movements hope for the same, despite controversy and division among their proponents.

But what can a local yokel do to get a piece of the food revolt? Go to a nomadic dinner party.

The Pale Blue Door, from Southern England, is Tony Hornecker’s infamous meals on wheels extravaganza. Tony and his team arrive in a foreign land, stake out suspicious-looking digs, and design a proper art installation of their own particular fashion with candles, carpentry, and flare.

A set designer to the stars back in London, Hornecker took the popular pop-up restaurant idea to a new level, traveling to Scandinavia and South America to create dinner parties in dubious settings. The highpoint of PBD? A one-man show by performer extraordinaire A Man To Pet.

Shrimp get sexy behind closed doors. Photo by Cocina Sunae.

Cocina Sunae in Buenos Aires is an eastern cocktail of a restaurant hiding out in the middle of a residential neighborhood in Argentina’s capital city. Thai curries, Vietnamese rolls, Chinese dumplings, and Korean BBQ are served weekend nights in the living room of a lovely family home.

Staff explain wine options or refill your lychee nut martini while you try not to rush through four delectable courses. Finish up with fried banana crepes and green tea ice cream, all made from scratch in the sterling family kitchen.

Hidden Kitchen is the brainchild of Braden Perkins and Laura Adrian, a couple from Seattle who started their own supper club – in Paris. HK serves ten courses with wine pairings on the weekend evenings.

They’ve been at it for three years and serve “pan-European, new American” cuisine to travelers and locals in their apartment near the Louvre. Pan-Euro, nouveau Yank means freshly-baked miniature pretzels and sausage with a shot glass of Belgian beer, followed by skillet-cooked chanterelles with mascarpone faro, Malibu fish tacos, seared Atlantic salmon and a light chèvre cheese cake with fresh fig. Each course with its own wine pairing.

But secret restaurants aren’t for everyone. Some balk at the thought of forking over $100 to eat in someone’s apartment. A reasonable enough hesitation, right? Others question the unregulated kitchen sanitation or find the hunt for the location frustrating, map in hand, no sign to guide you. The underground is its own culture club – it’s a gastronomic adventure into uncharted territory, for the culinary pirates among us.

Dining out. Photo by Cocina Sunae.

According to their website, The Ghetto Gourmet in Oakland, California, “started as a little Monday night “pirate restaurant” project with three main goals: 1. Try new things. 2. Build a groovy clientele. 3. Make the world a better place.

Sounds like San Francisco, right? Especially since the pirate restaurant ended up a foodie social network. But it also spawned a mobile eatery, a sort of traveling circus of dining, with Ghetto Gourmet events popping up across the U.S.

So while sustainable agribusiness may not be a reality, we can all do our part by partying with healthy, gourmet dishes in boho-exclusive settings, accompanied by great music and an amazing one-she-man show. If you’re traveling to a new city, a unique entry point into its authentic underbelly might just be through a closed door restaurant.

Community Connection

Follow Tom Gates for a round of binge eating in Buenos Aires, which includes a stop at the closed door restaurant Casa Saltshaker. Be sure to check out one of Matador’s many food related stories, including our staff’s favorite restaurants in the world.

That’s some Odd Duck, right there. Photo: jmpk

If you haven’t been to Austin before, you might want to sit down before reading this. Austin is a pretty bad-ass destination and the city wears this badge in their own distinct style. By style, I mean weird. Not eccentric, but weird. If you don’t believe me, just check out some of these classic Austin dishes that might make you blush when ordering.

Dirty Sanchez at Torchy’s Tacos

You sensed something wasn’t quite right when you saw that smiling devil on the Torchy’s Tacos sign welcoming you to their establishment, but you ignored it when you saw the huge line and knew something was good here.

Baingan Bartha. Photo: mattmendoza

Torchy’s tacos are tasty-goodness (well worth the wait), but I dare you to go and order a dirty sanchez. You giggled just reading this, didn’t you? Get your mind out of the gutter. And since you were probably desperate to know, a dirty sanchez (at Torchy’s anyway) comes with eggs, poblano peppers, cheese, carrots, and ranch sauce.

Baingan Bartha at Graj Mahal

The Taj Mahal has its touts and tourists, while Austin’s Graj Mahal has its baingan bartha. (I’ll leave you to work out what it’s colloquially named.) The baingan is a spicy eggplant dish and a popular choice even with carnivores like myself. Wash it down with a slice of the Graj’s garlic naan, light and fluffy perfection.

Oh, and just because it’s a trailer doesn’t mean they aren’t properly equipped: This airstream even has a tandoori oven, so if you want curry, then you want the Graj. Mmmmm.

Red Velvet Cakeball at Holy Cacao

Photo by author.

It takes either a genius or a total nutjob to decide to put make cakes and serve them like lollipops. Actually, let me reconsider that: the cakeballs served up at Holy Cacao are actually more like cookie dough (e.g. raw batter), so it must have been a genius, because they are damn good.

Don’t worry though; just because these cakes aren’t fully cooked doesn’t mean they aren’t without icing. After all – it’s really easy to put the icing on a lollipop, right? Dip, let cool, eat. Wash rinse repeat. You can’t go wrong by ordering a cakeball, but if stuck I strongly suggest the red velvet. Divine.

Mother Clucker at Gourdoughs

Out of these six dishes, the Mother Clucker is without a doubt my personal favourite. Gourdoughs is a doughnut trailer, but the old yeast or cake debate was far too passé for these guys. Instead they’ve upped the game so far that Dunkin Donuts doesn’t even know what hit ‘em.

Gourdough’s signature dish is The Mother Clucker: a gooey, hot doughnut topped with spicy fried chicken and honey butter. If you think reading that is an eye-opener, try eating it: pure calorific heaven.

Pork Belly Slider at Odd Duck Farm to Trailer

The guys at Odd Duck Farm to Trailer mean serious business. When I say that, I refer less to their commitment to locally sourced ingredients (which is noble), but these use the entire animal when preparing up their various concoctions.

Gourdough’s Mother Clucker. Photo: deadhorse

Their pork belly slider sounds like a voyeuristic event at a state fair until you realise that a slider in Austin is simple a small, hamburger-like object. Odd Duck changes their menu on a daily basis, so you’ll get whatever is fresh – meaning yes, they might have just killed it.

Poor Qui’s Buns at East Side King

The kind folks running the world class East Side King are open late into the night – after all, who doesn’t want a fresh pair of steamed buns after a long night out on the town?

These buns are stuffed with pork and are drenched in Hoisin sauce, so if that’s your kind of thing, be sure this place is on your menu. All kidding aside, the dishes are fab, right down to the homemade cookies that are a must-do for dessert.

Community Connection

Sweet tooth? Be sure to check out our Dessert Lover’s Guide to New York City, as well as many of our other often wacky food articles. If trailers are more your thing, consider how to get off the grid in a vintage trailer.

Lunchbox Laboratory is but the tip of the hamburg. Photo: foole

Ulupalakua Ranch Store & Grill (Kula, Hawaii)

Headed south on Kula highway from Pukalani, you might start to salivate as you see cows and elk feeding on the nutritious grasses of Maui. You’re in luck! This ranch has a lunch grill making burgers out of this grass-fed beef that are said to be “OH. MY. GOD.”

Fergburger (Queenstown, New Zealand)

Fergburger is rated the number one restaurant in Queenstown on Trip Advisor. That’s over 60 reviews and not a single negative remark. The patty is made of fresh beef, then shaped into an enormous creation almost too big to stuff into any mouth.

Fergberger. Photo: dal_lur

Igloo Roadhouse (Buxton, Australia)

If you have done any research on great burgers, you probably have heard of the Aussie creation “burger with the lot“. This topping lover’s dream consists of cheese, bacon, lettuce, tomato, fried egg, pineapple, beet root, and bbq sauce. The patty and bun at Igloo are Godzilla-sized, making it the perfect bed for the lot of it.

Andrew’s Hamburgers (Melbourne, Australia)

Andrew’s sits at the top of the Australian burger pyramid, regularly reviewed as the best Aussie hamburgers. Eating one of their creations sure beats eating at Subway.

Egg, tomato, bacon & cheese. Andrew’s. mspixieears

Kermond’s Hamburgers (Warrnambool, Australia)

If there is any joint trying to take down Andrew’s hamburgers for best burger in Australia, it’s Kermond’s. Making the most talked about burger in Warrnambool since 1949, Kermond’s has put in their time. They may have been around the block once or twice, but there is nothing old fashioned about their burgers. They’ll pack it full with all the toppings you want and carefully construct it, so you’ll get a perfect bite every time.

Burger Got Soul (Launceston, Tasmania)

Tasmania doesn’t usually blip on the burger radar but Burger Got Soul beckons. The burgers look fresh and all accounts are that they taste flipping delicious.

Arctic Roadrunner (Anchorage, AK)

A historic Anchorage burger joint, popular with food-loving travelers. A burger with bologna, ham, salami, mozzarella, and an onion ring? Hit it or quit it.

Urban Burger (Vancouver, BC)

Don’t confuse this place with the Australian franchise. This place is locally owned, and dishing out solid burgers. Think of the Canadian equivalent to In-N-Out.

Arctic Roadrunner. Photo: semarr

Lunchbox Laboratory (Seattle, WA)

Lunchbox is a hole in the wall, create-your-own burger joint. All these burgers are over the top and messy. Choose from the vast selection of meats, cheeses, sauces, and toppings. They’ll construct the burger of your dreams, held together by an organic Kaiser roll.

Father’s Office (Los Angeles, CA)

Father’s is a ritzy, bustling bar in Culver City with an enormous selection of craft beer. Focus! You’re there for the burger! The Office Burger is a thick patty of dry, aged beef, topped with caramelized onions, bacon, gruyere and blue cheeses, and fresh arugula. It’s a wolf in gourmet burger clothing.

Apple Pan (Los Angeles, CA)

Located in West Hollywood, Apple Pan is a small, shed-like building that has allegedly perfected the classic burger. Their famed hickory number is a grilled patty served on a large bed of iceberg, with pickles, mayo, and topped with their own homemade hickory BBQ sauce. It’s nostalgia on a bun.

Rocky’s in Calgary. Photo: Soul of Beer

Rocky’s Burger Bus (Calgary, AB)

Apparently, when Mrs. Partridge blew a tire on one of the Partridge family tours in Canada she just started selling great burgers. These are take-out burgers made from AAA Alberta beef. They’re fresh, they’re fast, and they’re reportedly delicious. Just tell Danny Bonaduce to get his own!

Bobcat Bite (Santa Fe, NM)

Bobcat is out of an old movie; a place that’s miles from town, where a cowboy could tie up his horse and enjoy one of the most raved-about burgers in the USA – a huge freshly ground patty, topped with not-too-hot green chilis and a slice of melted white cheese.

Cherry Cricket (Denver, CO)

This Yelp review can’t be topped: “I make this review special by revealing that I am a vegetarian, unless I’m at the Cherry Cricket. Oh yes, I’m acutely aware that the cow that I’m eating likely had a horrible life, I understand that my gastrointestinal tract will object the following day in an unpleasant manner. But… best. burger. in. town.” Not exactly the strictest vegetarian.

Chris Madrid’s (San Antonio, TX)

Have you ever had dreams about drowning in cheese – and completely loving it? Chris Madrid’s will make your dreams come true. The large and charred patty is swamped in fresh cheddar. This burger is even cheesier than a hot dog in France.

Chris Madrid’s. Photo: laurafries

Kincaid’s Hamburgers (Ft. Worth, TX)

An old grocery store transformed into a retro diner. The burger you’ll find here is not much different than your uncle’s famous char-grilled backyard burgers. Except better. Word is that it rivals some of the world’s best flame grilling.

Sobrino’s (Mexico City, Mexico)

I have to thank Jim Johnston for this recommendation. The burger here is said to be of quality beef, served on nice, crusty bread. So, if you’re in Mexico, please… take some time and send us a review of your experience. Given the lack of Mexican burger articles, it seems that a “Greatest Burger in Mexico” piece might do some good.

Buster’s on 28th (Minneapolis, MN)

Buster’s burgers are always said to be perfectly cooked and always tasty. Apparently it’s all about the bison burger.

Buster’s bison burger. Photo: benreichelt

Kuma’s Corner (Chicago, IL)

Embrace your naughty side and order up a Goblin Cock (Hey pervert, that’s a burger with a Chicago dog served on top). Or maybe try one of the other 21 heavy metal branded burgers, all served on a fresh pretzel roll.

Port of Call (New Orleans, LA)

Port of Call is the type of place you’d expect to have been one of Blackbeard’s favorite bars. Wood paneling, sailor décor, and men with beards. The burgers are as simple as a huge great tasting patty with a handful of shredded cheddar cheese on top.

Ann’s Snack Bar (Atlanta, GA)

Atlanta has become the burger lovers Mecca and Miss Ann is the Muhammad of the burger world. Miss Ann carefully constructs her massive patties with her own hands, building her “ghetto burger” from fresh ingredients. I’m surprised that it didn’t make Matador’s picks for where to eat like a local in Atlanta.

Vortex Bar & Grill (Atlanta, GA)

The Double Bypass Burger from The Vortex: Half a pound of sirloin patty topped with 2 fried eggs, 6 slices of American cheese, and eight slices of bacon. Oh, I almost forgot, instead of a bun, it’s held together with 2 grilled cheese sandwiches. My Heart!

Ann’s in Atlanta. Photo: marynificent

Globe Bistro (Toronto, ON)

Although $15 dollars for lunch may be a bit steep, a burger made of 100% rib-eye is well worth it. Topped with Northern Woods mushrooms, Quebec cheese curd, Niagara pancetta, and house-made pickles, this is definitely a gourmet burger.

Ray’s Hell Burger (Washington, DC)

500 Yelp reviews and no one is talking about this restaurant. Everyone is talking about the burger! With Foie Gras and cognac sautéed mushrooms as some of the toppers on the menu (and prices starting around $7) this is a gourmet burger at a working man’s price.

Good Dog Bar (Philadelphia, Pennsylvania)

3 words: Good Dog Burger. ½ lb. sirloin patty (ground in house) stuffed with Roquefort cheese that oozes out of the center, finished off with caramelized onions and centered between a brioche bun. Not the best place for travelers to begin a new diet.

Vortex’s very famous burger. Photo: curt

Corner Bistro (New York, NY)

Corner Bistro is a dive with speedy service and a great atmosphere. Their Bistro Burger is a classic that all other bacon cheeseburgers should be judged against. A thick patty served with lettuce, tomato, onion, cheese, and bacon. (Editor’s Note: Eff this place. Go across the street to Jane Street Tavern and have a real burger).

Shake Shack (New York, NY)

You may have to wait over an hour, but one bite into this critically acclaimed burger will make you forget all that. Dreamy beef and melted cheese topped with fresh lettuce and tomato. Simplicity done right. And since this is a “world” article, look out for the new Shake Shack location in Kuwait City, Kuwait.

Kansas (Buenos Aires, Argentina)

Kansas always seems to turn up as the best American cuisine in Buenos Aires, with reviews giving it prime picking for those expats looking for a whopper that isn’t a Whopper.

Lanchonete da Cidade (Sao Paulo, Brazil)

In an act of authenticity, this 60’s style diner puts their juicy beef to rest on homemade buns. It is said that the burger actually tastes like a 60’s burger. I hope they mean in the style of the 60’s. This place is just one of many places in Brazil to eat goopy, oozy food.

Shake Shack. Photo: Stuart Spivack

Hamborgara Búllan (Reykjavik, Iceland)

Want the full burger experience? Hamborgara gives it to you; not just with their seedy-New York bar atmosphere, but also with their amazing and classic cheeseburgers.

Jo Burger (Dublin, Ireland)

Two words: Burger joint. There’s not much to see at Jo Burger, which is good, as it brings one of the best burgers in Dublin into prime focus.

The Meat Wagon (London, UK)

A burger joint on wheels that can be tracked with Twitter? Yep. If you’re lucky enough to track this wagon down then you are in for a great treat. A freshly pressed burger patty, topped with a freshly pressed bacon patty and special chili. The owner says the secret is in the cheese. Isn’t the secret always in the cheese?

Nah Nah Bah (Lagos, Portugal)

This place is a weary traveler’s oasis, applying gauze to the wound that many travelers crave: tender beef and melted cheese. Mix it with Bob Marley and you have Nah Nah Bah.

London’s meat wagon. Photo: simondee

Home Burger Bar (Madrid, Spain)

Built to feel like a 60’s diner, Home Burger Bar brings in their meat from the mountains of Avila. Their patty is certified organic and there are options galore as to how you want your burger topped. This place is a local favorite.

Pim Pam Burger (Barcelona, Spain)

Great beef, fresh toppings, and a short menu. When people are crying out “Best burger in Barcelona!” and all you are served is a classic burger, you know you’re in for great tasting beef.

Ferdi (Paris, France)

Penelope Cruz has put Ferdi on the map by proclaiming that it has “the best cheeseburger in Paris!”. From looking at the reviews, she might not be wrong.

The Bird (Berlin, Germany)

It’s amusing to think that a place called The Bird would be known for its beef. Anyone that has visited this joint will tell you that they serve a high quality cow. They also serve guacamole – in Germany! Definitely one to put on the list if you’re binge eating in Berlin.

Hong Kong’s Monster Burger. Photo: gohanhk

1516 Brewing Company (Vienna, Austria)

1516’s burgers are made with beef from the Austrian Alps. The burger consists of a patty, melted cheddar, and a bun. Take that, condiment queens.

JB’s Corner (Johannesburg, South Africa)

The ambiance is very street café, and the mood is hungry. JB’s pure homemade beef patties have drawn much attention in Johannesburg.

Lucille’s Diner (Cairo, Egypt)

Lucille’s was just touted by Scott Mcleod of Time Magazine as “Best Burger in the World”. The burger is made of prime beef and fresh toppings grown in the Nile river basin.

Kizilkayalar (Istanbul, Turkey)

Kizilkayar serves up one of greasiest and tastiest sliders in the world. The patty is drenched in a ketchupy-garlic sauce and then placed between a bun that is allowed time to soak up its juice.

Bite Club in Phillippines. Photo: angelosu

City Bar (St. Petersburg, Russia)

You would think they were hosting KGB meetings at this dimly lit hangout. There is an advantage to the darkness – a greater sense of smell and taste. Whispered word is that this place serves up some of the best burgers in all of Russia.

Monster Burger (Hong Kong)

I’m sure there has been more than one occasion that you have thought to yourself, “That burger looks nothing like the picture on the menu!”. Well, you won’t have that problem at this Hong Kong fast food chain. The burgers look exactly like the menu pictures. From the rave reviews, I’d say they taste as good as they look.

Bravo Burger in Taiwan. Photo: araiyul

Kangaroo Café (Hanoi, Vietnam)

Not only has owner Max Hartt taken the art of the Aussie burger to Vietnam, but he also puts together tours of surrounding areas. After scarfing down the product of Max‘s great skill, how about hopping on a motorbike to explore the country? Just steer clear of dog meat and rooster balls.

Smok’inn frogz (Singapore)

Tucked behind Bar Bar Blacksheep in a food stall is Smok’inn frogz. This place may be tight and stuffy, but the burgers are said to be full of flavor and juices. A good spot if you’re hitting Singapore on a tight budget.

Bite Club (Boracay, Philippines)

The white sands aren’t the only reason to visit this beautiful island. Bite Club serves up a humongous burger that could probably feed your whole family. You might want to let the belt go a little, too.

Bravo Burger (Taipei City, Taiwan)

Bravo Burger is on the “the quest for the best burger”, as clearly stated on their menu. They are definitely on the right track, serving up thick, tasty patties and toppings that look like they were harvested fresh from your mother’s garden. You’ll need to install a mechanical jaw to bite their Jumbo Burger. It’s Huge!

Smokey Saloon (Seoul, South Korea)

Smokey Saloon in Seoul. Photo: kaba

Considered a fast food chain, that doesn’t stop Smoeky from producing towering burgers. What other fast food restaurant can you get a fried egg, thick sliced bacon, and a homemade onion ring on your cheeseburger? OK. Maybe some, but which ones in South Korea?

Goro’s Diner (Tokyo, Japan)

These burgers are put together very beautifully. Almost like a burger statue. Sometimes you just feel like destroying something beautiful.

Speakeasy Diner (Kyoto, Japan)

Calling themselves the “hamburger shop in Kyoto”, this quaint diner is a home to expats and locals alike. The burgers range from the cute Kyoto burger to the enormous “special” burger.

Community Connection

Matador is crazy about food. And drinking. Want a beer to wash it all down? Consider the 20 best beer towns in America. Even better, catch a perfectly legal ride on Berlin’s curious beer bike. We’ll warn you though, you’re taking life into your own hands if you try Budweiser’s unfathomable chelada.

Flying biscuits. Photo: jonathanmcintosh

Flying Biscuit Cafe (Brunch)

Flying Biscuit’s eclectic charm (complete with vinyl flower-covered table cloths and cherubs painted on the ceiling) resonates strongly with locals. The food is pretty astounding, too.

The popular restaurant is best known for its Southern-style biscuits (naturally). In fact, the bakery has been known to regularly pump out thousands a day on the weekend. Flying Biscuit’s healthy, organic breakfasts feature farm fresh eggs, turkey bacon and rosemary-dusted potatoes.

For those with a sweet tooth, there’s also organic oatmeal pancakes smothered with warm peach compote and maple syrup or orange-scented whole wheat French toast topped with raspberry sauce and honey crème anglaise.

Don’t miss the cranberry apple spread that comes with the biscuits. It tastes like a country store smells – spicy, sweet and absolutely amazing.

Locations in Candler Park (the original and features a bakery), Midtown, Sandy Springs, Buckhead, Norcross and East Cobb.($5 – $15)

Breakfast BLT at Highland. Photo: brotherlove

Highland Bakery (Brunch)

The wait at this Old Fourth Ward neighborhood spot can eat up the morning, but the food more than compensates. Scents of fresh, from-scratch baked goods tickle the nose upon arrival, and it just gets better from there. Large portions are only one perk of this crowd-gathering establishment. There’s also the cookies … and cakes … and cupcakes.

Gems from the regular menu include sweet potato pancakes with warm and thick carmalized brown sugar syrup and toasted pecans, homemade granola, and bran flake crusted Challah bread Peanut Butter French Toast topped with carmelized bananas.

Highland Bakery is located at 655 Highland Ave. NE. ($8 – $10)

The Vortex. Photo: jesspics

The Vortex Bar & Grill (Lunch)

This unapologetic joint serves up some of the juiciest burgers in Atlanta. Start off any meal with one of its many appetizers – crowd favorites tend towards tater tots and fried zucchini. Then, indulge in a burger.

Vortex offers more than 20 different 1/2 –pound burger options broken into a few categories: The Usual Suspects (plain and cheeseburger); The Signature Series, which includes the spicy Hell Burger topped with habanero relish, jalapeno pepper and pepperjack cheeses, and the Pesto Burger served with basil pesto sauce and provolone cheese; The Original Vortex Heart Stoppers smothered with layers of cheese, fried eggs, bacon and other clog-inducing deliciousness, and the $26 Super-Stack Heart Attack Burger.

For those who don’t enjoy burgers, don’t worry – there are plenty of other options awaiting diners at both locations. According to Atlanta resident Karen Williams, Vortex also cooks up a wicked veggie burger.

Vortex Bar & Grill has two locations: 878 Peachtree St. NE in Midtown; 428 Moreland Ave. in Little Five Points. ($6 – $26)

Sake bombing Ru Sans. Photo: marynificent

Ru Sans (Dinner)

“When I say ‘sake’ you say ‘bomb’” and so goes the party anthem at this sushi spot in Midtown (with a few others spread through Atlanta). Just make just make sure you know what you’re getting into.

While the sushi isn’t the best in Atlanta, Ru Sans is one of the best dinner locales to start a night on the town. Dollar sushi, creative rolls and sake-a-plenty make this one of the best places in Atlanta to go to celebrate… anything.

Numerous locations in Atlanta. Original location: 1529 Piedmont Ave. NE. ($1 to $15)

Fatt Matt’s. Photo: brandonshigeta

Fat Matt’s Rib Shack (Dinner)

There’s a reason Fat Matt’s got a shout-out in George Clooney hit “Up in the Air.” This un-pretentious barbecue establishment entices diners with its low-cost, no-frills dishes and nightly blues musical entertainment. BBQ lovers Unite!

Naturally, the ribs are a sure bet (sandwich, ½ slab and full slab), but then there’s also the chopped pork sandwich served with a bag of chips at a bargain price of $3.95 and other offerings including a ½ roast chicken. For an extra kick of awesome, order the rum baked beans and wash them down with sweet tea or cheapie beer.

1811 Piedmont Ave. NE. ($3.75 – $20)

Intermezzo for dessert. Photo: 1.bp

Café Intermezzo (Dessert)

Fashioned after traditional European coffee houses, this coffee/sweets restaurant offers plates to make even a non-dessert lover salivate. Tour guides at Café Intermezzo navigate diners through the 100-plus choices for after-dinner food, including cheesecakes, tortes, pies, cakes and more. With two large cases to choose from, the selection hits every note of perfection.

Coffee-lovers are not overlooked – there are more than 100 tasty concoctions to please any java drinker. Favorites include Mexican Hot Chocolate and absolutely anything that can be combined with alcohol.

Café Intermezzo has a complete menu, in case the appetite calls for more than just desserts.

1845 Peachtree Rd. NE. ($4 and up)

The crowd mills at Paolo’s. Photo: jcburns

Paolo’s Italian Gelato & Desserts (Dessert)

On any given summer night, crowds wrap around the old building that houses Paolo’s. Just refurbished, this authentic Italian gelato haunt scoops up some of the best you’ll find this side of the Atlantic.

It offers the cream and fruit staples, and unique flavors not normally found in Atlanta – of the fruit and vegetable kind. It may sound daring, but the different, sweet tastes are refreshing and a nice venture from the norm. There’s even doggie gelato so the pups won’t drool over yours.

Be sure to carry cash – Paolo’s doesn’t accept cards.

1025 Virginia Ave. NE ($2 and up)

Community Connection

Check out our guide to finding righteous pizza in Atlanta, as well as our guide to the city’s green places, from farmers’ markets to folk music festivals. Oh, and everything to do with food and travel.

This Photo of Roast Chicken and Beef at The Owl
and the Pussycat and All Photos: Carloyn Evans,
all rights reserved

We’re not talking fancy gastros or soulless chain pubs here, but the last remaining free houses and old man’s pubs: the genuine, no nonsense, old school drinking holes.

So if you want a big slice of real London life added to a tasty roast, be a traveller, not a tourist and head to one of these pubs.

The Owl and the Pussycat

Roast:
At this genuine East End boozer, you almost have to fight to get a table. You’ll be left in a comatose state by the tasty roast dinner with ‘the lot’ piled high on a magical plate that seems to be able to create an endless amount of juicy, meaty gravy. The stomach-breaking portions are definitely not for pussycats.

Extra Trimmings:
With a decent boozer it’s all about authenticity, not ‘aute cuisine. So the extra trimmings relate to what makes each pub’s experience extra special. Here, it’s the quintessentially British irony that makes this pub cool in trendy Shoreditch with its dodgy décor, sarcastic old landlord and dark interior.

Price: £15.00
Serving times: 1 or 2pm – ’til sold out.
34 Redchurch Street, Shoreditch, London, E2 7DP
020 7613 3628

The Bear

Roast Chicken at The Bear

Roast:
Ok, so this free house’s roast has been in the Observer newspaper’s awards, but don’t let that put you off. It’s far away from the tourist trail, so you’re guaranteed to see more locals than tourists.

The duck fat roast potatoes are so unbelievably good, they’ll make you go momentarily blind. And be careful as you bite into the crackling of the pork belly, as you won’t be able to control the expression of ecstasy on your face.

Extra Trimmings:
The ‘bar props’ (these are the old people who almost live in the traditional boozer) sit at the bar all day and wait till you come up, so they can tell you their latest joke, anecdote or that you look like a girl they once knew. Quality entertainment.

Price: £11.00
Serving times: 12pm – 5pm (or sold out).
296a Camberwell New Road, Camberwell, London, SE5 ORP
020 7274 7037

The Montague Arms

The Montague Arms

Roast:
If you want to experience a roast how London’s Grans make it, come here. Every vegetable on the plate is definitely not there for health reasons.

Take the mashed swede that melts on your tongue and gives it the ability to butter bread. The homemade Yorkshire puddings appear to bloom on your plate as they soak up the gravy.

Extra trimmings:
The classic London pub landlord, Peter Hoyle has been the owner for 40 years and as soon as you walk in, you feel at home when he calls you ‘love’. Throw the guidebook away as you sit down and learn a bit of London history from him.

Price: £6.50 including pudding.
Serving times: 12pm – 5pm
New Cross, London, SE15 2PA

The Cat’s Back

Roast:
Here you get half a roast chicken, or lamb that’s just the right sort of pink. It’s melt in your mouth meat accompanied by a dark, rich gravy. And they’ve added a cheeky addition to the traditional roast – a smooth yet firm broccoli cheese.

Extra Trimmings:
This is the only true free house left in posh West London. It survived when the surrounding area was bought up by international corporations and turned into riverside flats.

Therefore, the landlord can change the ales and lagers to suit his customers, not the breweries, and it still has the most amazing collection of junk adorning its walls – from Red Indian chiefs to golden Greek Gods and Barbies dressed as Baywatch lifeguards.

Price: £12.50
Serving times: Varies between 12 and 1pm – late. Phone to check.
86-88 Point Pleasant, Putney, London, SW18 1PP
020 8877 0818

College Arms

College Arms

Roast:
Here you get comfort food in a setting that’s possibly out of your comfort zone. But isn’t that what travelling is all about? As you sit at the table with locals from the nearby housing estate, your heart’ll be in your mouth along with the deliciously crispy roast potatoes, home cooked veg and succulent meat, but after a couple of pints and Yorkshire puds, you’ll become part of the family.

Extra Trimmings:
Eavesdropping on the regulars. Nowhere else will you be able to hear native gossip so clearly and comfortably.

Price: Under £7.
Serving times: 12.30pm – 3.30pm
Forest Rd, Walthamstow, London, E17 4JD
020 8531 8001

Community Connection

All about what to do in London? No worries. Matador’s got you covered. Find out how to take the bus, great places to eat, how to have a great trip on less than $100 a day, and where to volunteer.

Photo of meats to baffle the tourist on display in Hanoi: Jed Sundwall

Photo (and feature photo) of cobra liquor
on offer in Vietnam: Augapfel

Munching on cobra parts is likely an adaptation of the Chinese medical belief that ingesting an animal will endow the eater with its positive attributes. This is why tiger penises are so expensive nowadays, and no, I’m not kidding.

The ritual is primarily a northern Vietnamese thing and tends to be far more elaborate around Hanoi. Snake restaurants rarely advertise to foreigners, but ask any tour guide in the Old Quarter and they’ll be able to point you in the right direction.

It’s possible to find cobra in the south, but it’s mainly in the form of carcasses pickled in rice liquor and trust me, the novelty factor does not make up for the taste. Your best bet for strange eats in Saigon is the Jungle Barbecue (Lang Nuong Nam Bo, off Cach Mang Thang 8). They usually use smaller, non-venomous snakes, but you’ll also be able to order up plates of porcupine, iguana, weasel and other things you’ve never even thought about eating. Be sure to call ahead and reserve your dinner.

Picking Your Cobra

Photo or an array of powerful liquors: ashleyt

When you first arrive at the restaurant you’ll be ushered into a large room full of terrariums and wire cages. Don’t let the rabbits, dogs or turtles distract you – they’re delicious, but you can eat dog anywhere.

When picking a cobra it’s tempting to go with the longest one, but what you’re really after here is girth and attitude. When you’ve selected the tastiest looking snake the host will pull it out of the cage, throw it on the floor and start poking it with a stick. If it starts hissing like a punctured tire and tries to kill everyone in the room, you’re good to go.

Appetizers

After taking a seat (preferably away from the cobra) you’ll be offered a choice of fine apertifs. You’ll be able to choose from a large array of dead things in rice liquor – scorpions, lizards, other snakes – but as this meal is all about strength and virility, I’d suggest you go with the bull testicles. Slightly sweet, but with a savory edge.

Prepping the Snake

Cobra being wrangled. Photo by the author.

Your snake will arrive with a half-full bottle of rice vodka, a funnel and two waiters with huge knives.

First the head comes off and the venom is drained into the bottle (don’t worry, it’s only dangerous when taken intravenously), then the blood from the rest of the body is added.

The heart, still beating Indiana Jones-style, is placed on a saucer and offered to the most distinguished diner. Being foreign, this will be you.

Cobra butchering in progress. Photo by the author.

Man up. Drop it in a glass of blood and venom liquor and down it like you’re back in college.

You might feel it beating in your throat.

The Main Course

As if heightened virility and cobra powers aren’t enough, your reward is a multi-course meal made from the remains of your victim. You’ll feast on snake soup, snake spring rolls, barbecued snake and just about any other culinary option the chef can dream up.

And yeah, it tastes a little like chicken.

Video of the heart the author consumed:

Community Connection

Even if eating a beating cobra heart is too far out for you, you can still find pages of information about traveling in Vietnam on Matador’s Focus Page Travel Southeast Asia. For thrills that require skills, read about surfing and cycling in Vietnam.

The Terimayo. Photo by rosietulips

The Terimayo (Vancouver)

Japa Dog became a fast favorite with this year’s Olympic crowd, with lines routinely stretching around the block. Many have tried to infuse Japanese ingredients with dogs before but none have done it as successfully as this stand in downtown Vancouver.

Most people gravitate towards the Terimayo, a beef hot dog toped with seaweed, teriyaki sauce, Japanese mayonnaise and fried onion. Other Japa toppings include grated radish, green onion, okonomi sauce, fried cabbage and dried bonito flakes.

The Pylsur. Photo by roboppy

The Pylsur (Iceland)

This hot dog is dressed with pylsusinnep, an Icelandic version of mustard that’s brown and sweet and looks like an infant’s diarrhea. Most often you’ll also be able to sauce things up with remoulade, a condiment made of mayonnaise mixed with capers, mustard, herbs, anchovies, and gherkins. The meat itself has a unique taste, owing to a mixture of pork, lamb and beef.

Crif’s famous Spicy Redeck. Photo by mesohungry

The Spicy Redneck (New York) *

Crif Dogs in New York specializes in audacious hot dogs. The Spicy Redneck is firmly established as a worldwide classic. Bowels quiver at the mere mention of the bacon-wrapped dog, topped with chili, cole slaw and japapenos.

Choripan. Photo by jessicajuriga

Choripan (Argentina)

There’s not much better than chorizo and crusty bread, topped with some of the best condiments in the world, like chimichurri. The beef or pork sausage is sliced down the middle, then surrounded by a hulking roll. Huge arguments have broken out about where to find the best in Argentina, with some of the suggested winners coming from roadside grills and vendors outside of football stadiums, rather than anything even close to posh.

Boerewors. Photo by dvdmerwe

Boerewors (South Africa)

A combination of minced beef and either pork or lamb, this swirly sausage is often served on a roll, making it a beautiful, hand-sized mess of a dog. Its somewhat unique taste comes from an interesting combination of spices like nutmeg, cloves and coriander seed.

The Completo. Photo by mrcortes

The Completo (Chile)

I’d guess that the average Chilean has a thousand of these in their lifetime. “Completo” means what you think it does – complete with everything. The base condiment is an absurd amount of mayonnaise, topped usually with chopped avocado and tomato. From there, there’s a possibility of relish, mustard, ketchup and green chili pepper.

Remember that the red bottle of ketchup next to it isn’t ketchup – it’s hot sauce. Also remember that this is a relatively healthy meal in a country that serves healthy dishes like greasy chips covered in fried strips of steak, onion and scrambled egg.

Browned gruyere on top – only in France. Photo by andshewas

The Cheese Baguette Hot Dog (France)

People get all drool-y when talking about French wieners, which are most often served on half of a baguette, then topped and grilled with gruyere cheese. Most often there will be an inclusion of Ketcepes, which is sort of a mushroom-based ketchup.

Tunnbrodsrulle. Try spelling that without cut/pasting. Photo by chjmt

The Tunnbrodsrulle (Sweden)

Lola Akinmade (our editor at Goods and part-time Swedish resident) describes this as a “soft, thin bread (tunnobrod) rolled up funnel-style and filled with hotdog or sausage, mashed potatoes, onions, mustard, lettuce, and other dubious condiments.” That sounded good to me, or at least until I found that it also sometimes includes Raksallad, a minced shrimp/mayonnaise/paprika/dijon combination.

Currwurst. Photo by wordridden

Currywurst (Germany)

Currywurst remains one of the most popular choices in a country full of sausage options. Sliced wurst is served with a slightly spicy, curry-infused ketchup, then eaten with tiny wooden forks. The bun is served on the side, which seems like a sacrilegious concept but works, mostly to goop up the remaining sauce. Pommes with heaps of mayo commonly accompany this wienie adventure.

Norway’s best. Photos by melaniewrong

The Norwegian (Norway)

Norway’s hot dogs are served on a potato lefse, then wrapped. Less show-offy about their condiments, the Norwegians play it simple with ketchup, mustard and relish. Sometimes dogs are also topped with brunost, a sweet, brown goat cheese.

Cachorro Quente. Photo by agentlebossanova

The Cachorro Quente (Brazil)

Brazilians generally pack more onto a hot dog than seems physically possible, with notable ingredients like shoestring potatoes/sticks. Other toppings (most often depending on where you are) can include quail eggs, mashed potatoes, corn, peas, cheese and marinara sauce.

The result is a hot dog that looks like it’s been pooped on by a pterosaur, which sounds about right when placed next to Brazil’s other oozing food like the churrasco.

New Zealand dog. Photo by Dave Crosby

The Battered Hot Dog (New Zealand)

“American hot dogs” are available but most Kiwis are used to wieners coming battered in a wheat-based coating. Served with ketchup or tomato sauce, they greatly resemble corn dogs without a stick.

* The author has only chosen one American hot dog, for fear of a team of foodies flying over his apartment and dropping a nuke on the roof, screaming that their favorite was forgotten. He felt that picking only one was an important gesture but including more would leave him under severe attack. He realizes that there are many great variations of wieners in The United States and encourages you to tell us about them in the replies, which you will surely do with great gusto .

Pizza at Antico. Photo by jason-riedy

Antico Pizza Napoletana

Open Monday through Saturday from 11:30 a.m. until “out of dough,” the new Antico Pizza Napoletana has quickly become one of the best restaurants in Atlanta for indulging in the-real-deal Italian pizza. For only being open less than a year, this spot has generated some serious buzz and a slew of passionate foodie followers in Atlanta.

Photo by Jango Monkey

One diner describes Antico’s pies as “gorgeous” – a hefty word for pizza, but remarkably accurate. The bubbly-crusted wonders are prepared using all-natural products from Napoli and Campania (Pomodorini tomatoes from Campania) and pizza makers follow a strict Artisan method. Even the restaurant’s ovens trace back to its Italian roots: Each one was handmade in Naples and includes heat-holding Santa Maria brick and Mt. Vesuvius volcanic rock.

Devour any one of the “Pizza Tradizionale di Napoli,” such as the spicy Diavoaola pizza, complete with sopressata, pepperonata and bufala. Or, try a “Pizza Specialita,” including the Lasagna pie, topped with meatballs, ricotta and romano cheeses.

Antico Pizza Napoletana is located at 1093 Hemphill Ave. south of Northside Drive and 14th Street. Not open on Sundays. ($17 to $20)

Baraonda

This romantic and dimly lit caffe Italiano, which has been consistently ranked as one of Atlanta’s best restaurants, serves up some of the city’s most authentically Italian pizza, the real “Prosciutto di Parma,” says Venice native and avid Baraonda fan Giovanni Ciriello.

The pies, which range from the traditional Margherita (tomato, mozzarella and basil) to the more adventurous Anatra (pink sauce topped with duck breast, sundried tomatoes and mozzarella) deliver perfection on a plate, straight from their famous wood-burning ovens.

Baraonda is located in the heart of Atlanta in the popular Midtown neighborhood at 710 Peachtree Street NE (on the corner of Peachtree and Third Street). (10 to $30)

Baraonda. Photo bymingaling

Savage Pizza

More American comic book than Italian, Savage Pizza has two locations in Atlanta – the hipster haven/trendy/alterna-teen Little Five Points neighborhood and Avondale Estates – and gives diners lots of options to bring to life their own unique pizza pie.

Here, the New York thin crust pie (also available in wheat) merges with a create-your-own style pizza by offering six different sauces and more than a dozen specialty options, all made from scratch with fresh ingredients.

Savage Pizza’s sauces range from the traditional red tomato sauce to the more creative Salsa Fresca, loaded with fresh Roma tomatoes, red onions and cilantro, and the Garlic White Sauce, a creamy sauce cooked all day.

The sassy restaurant’s specialty pies include The Mexican, smothered with Salsa Fresca and loaded with refried beans, green chiles and Monterey Jack cheese (they will throw on jalapenos or sour cream on request) and the Chicken Cordon Bleu, which starts with the Garlic White Sauce and is topped with roasted chicken, prosciutto ham, red onion, roasted red peppers, mozzarella and parmesan cheeses. If you can imagine it – the pizza makers at Savage Pizza can create it.

An added bonus for comic book lovers – Savage Pizza’s decor is an ode to superheroes. Even the bathrooms deliver comic book love with walls plastered in vintage strips.

Savage bathroom. Photo by dudeitssctottography

Savage Pizza has two locations in Atlanta: 484 Moreland Avenue Northeast and 115 Laredo Drive. ($9 to $22)

Shortys Pizza

Off the beaten path, Shortys Pizza offers a twist on the normal pizza. Here, the crust is uber-thin and reminiscent of pita, and is baked in a wood fired stove.

Shortys offers unique “Decatur/Tucker” thin crust signature pies. The menu is packed full of flavorful pizzas named after infamous singers and groups, including the Rhavi Shankar, a white cheese-less pie drenched in curry oil, roasted veggies and a cilantro-mint chutney; the I’m Rick James, a combo of sausage, walnuts, mushrooms, broccoli and roasted onions; and the John Lee Hooker, covered in barbecue chicken, roasted onions, jalapenos and a crowning glory gob of coleslaw.

Shortys Pizza has two locations in Atlanta: 2884-B Lavista Rd. and 3701 Lawrenceville Highway. ($9 to $20)

Community Connection

Matador has plenty of articles about food and travel. Like, for example, our picks for the ten worst pizzas in the world, our guide to eating in Brazil and most recently, The Best Condiments In the World Right Now.

This and all photos are courtesy and property of the author.

Hong Kong is unfortunately becoming increasingly expensive, but the best food is the cheap stuff that can be found in little, street corner dives. These are my favourite scuzzy, little joints in Hong Kong.

Restaurants

Chungking Mansion is said to be the dodgiest place in Hong Kong, and who knows, maybe it is.

Photo: author

But it definitely isn’t dodgy compared to most European countries and I’ve had no problems going in there on my own. Just be strong and don’t let the pushy men force you into buying a handbag or watch. The first two floors are shops that sell pretty much everything under the sun, including some incredible food.

My favourite little hole-in-the-wall there is Butt Food Centre, and not just for its name. It’s not much to look at, but I have never had a finer curry than in this little joint. And it’s dead cheap too. Whatever you order, make sure you get a marsala chai with it.
Butt Food Centre Shop 21G/F
Chungking Mansions
36-44 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, MTR exit D.

Hau Fook Street is a non-descript street in Tsim Sha Tsui that happens to host a whole slew of cheap, Asian restaurants with Vietnamese, Thai, Cantonese, Japanese and Taiwanese fare to choose from.

Surely the cheapest sushi in HK, this conveyor belt restaurant offers $15HKD ($1.93 USD) sashimi. And no, you will not get food poisoning.
Ichiban, 3 Hau Fook Street

Photo: author

This is a dessert parlour that whips up crazy ice cream creations that look a bit like driftwood.
China Town, 11 Hau Fook Street

Ok, so I’m cheating here because it’s not technically on Hau Fook Street, but it joins onto it with another street. It’s easiest to just walk down to the end of Hau Fook Street and badda bing, badda boom, yummy bubble tea on your lefthand side.
Easy Drink Easy Go, the end of Hau Fook Street on the left (just after 9 Hau Fook Street).

Hau Fook Street – MTR Tsim Sha Tsui, exit B2

Nothing warms you up better on a cold winter day than a steaming bowl of snake soup- yum yum yum. At $60 ($7.72 USD) a bowl, it’s not that cheap, but how many opportunities do you get to try snake? Plus, this place is eternally packed, which is always a good sign.
Ser Wong Fun Restaurant, 30 Cochrane Street, Central, MTR Central exit D2

Street Food Stalls- xiao shi dian (小食店)

I love this place. They do all the usuals and they make the best milkshakes ever,

Photo: author

and at only $9 ($1.16) what’s not to love? Sadly they shut at about 11PM, which means it’s not an option for a post-Lockhart Road drunken snack.
Ada Snacks, 2 O’Brien Road with Lockhart Road, MTR Wan Chai, exit C.

This place’s specialty is the best deep fried squid I’ve ever had.

Photo: author

$15 ($1.93 USD) might seem a bit steep for street food, but it is worth every greasy, spicy penny. This is oily, deep-fried goodness at its finest. Get served in the true HK fashion, with wonderfully brash staff, ever ready to scream at you in Cantonese. Expect lots of shouting and gestures and woe betide anyone who tries to take a photo.
Chez Jia – 佳記 (jiā jì), corner of Sai Yeung Choi Street South with Dundas Street, Mong Kok, MTR Mong Kok exit D3

This venue’s greatness is due to its location on goldfish street. Oh the irony- it’s delicious!
Prosperous – 生財 (shēng cái), 30-32A Tung Choi Street with Nullah Road, MTR Prince Edward, exit B2

One last thing

While writing this I discovered that two of my favourite xiao shi dians had closed down, one in Tsim Sha Tsui (TST) and the other in Central. They were both always full, so I have no idea how they went under, but the one in TST is now a Swatch shop. Disgusting. We need to work together to save the crappy food stall! Take to the streets and eat!
________________________________________________________________________

*The Chinese I’ve given you is a mixture of Cantonese and Mandarin. I know that Hong Kong is technically Cantonese only, but if you say it in Mandarin you will have no problems.

Community Connection

Thinking of going to China? Be prepared by boning up on the Chinese Government Manual: How to Beat up Street Vendors, How to Learn Chinese: Student Versus Teacher, and be ready for love when you least expect it by checking out Matador Classic I Was on the Rebound With a Chinese Clown.

Photos by author.

Grasshoppers

I decided to start my culinary experience on the most famous of bug street food, the grasshopper. Damn, these guys are huge! Not wanting to bite one in half, I decided to shove it all in my mouth at once. I failed, and its legs stuck out of my lips. Not a good look.

Grasshopper

The grasshopper’s upper torso and legs was extremely crunchy, while its body was quite soft. It was kind of like eating a whole prawn, minus any nice taste. Most notable for the contrasting texture of soft or crunchy body parts.

Feeling: Dread. Comparative Insect Rating: 2/10.

The author at work.

Silkworm

These guys looked like short, fat caterpillars and one easily fit into my mouth in one shot. Chewing caused it to break down into dust, coating the inside of my mouth. It was like like I’d just eaten a moth. A big swig of beer saved the day.

Feeling: Resentful. Comparative Insect Rating: 3/10.

Mole Crickets

Another grasshopper-like insect to eat. I popped one into my mouth and found it to be slightly crunchy, yet eating it was not anywhere near as unpleasant as the last two. I grabbed three more and ate them with the same not-so-bad result. It had only a little taste (which tasted like, well, a bug).

Feeling: Encouraged. Comparative Insect Rating: 6/10

Ant Salad.

Bombay Locusts

These fellas had been fried and served with some sort of leaf, hopefully to give some sort of improvement in taste. Popping a few in my mouth, I found them crunchy, salty and entirely inoffensive. Maybe I was getting used to eating these sorta things? Tasting salty and a little insect-y, they washed down well with my more-than-handy beer.

Feeling: Relaxed. Comparative Insect Rating: 8/10.

Bamboo Worms.

Ants

These are not the little black ants that crawl on your feet and bite you for no reason, but larger ones with wings. They’re served up in some sort of salad that’s overdosed with chopped lemongrass.

A spoonful of the salad unsurprisingly tasted like a whole heap of lemongrass. What’s the point of an ant salad if it just tastes like lemongrass? I guess it’s better than making a salad that tastes of ants. Trying a few lone ants, they tasted like a whole lot of nothing.

Feeling: Bored. Comparative Insect Rating: 5/10.

Bamboo Worms

Bamboo worms were short and white, looking similar to a caterpillar missing a few legs. They had a soft shell, not too crunchy, and thankfully very little inside it. They collapsed in my mouth, leaving a pleasant savoury taste, which went well with beer. Side armed with a few cool Singha’s, I could easily have finished a small bag of these.

Feeling: Cheerful. Comparative Insect Rating: 10/10.

Water Locusts.

Crickets

Urgh, crickets, just like the ones I used to squash when I was young. They were instantly unappealing to me. The pub soundtrack ticked over to “Help” by the Beatles, and I wonder if the DJ was secretly reading my mind.

The cricket’s body flaked when chewed, spreading what I picture to be wings, legs and pieces of head through my mouth. I resorted to the beer solution.

Feeling: Despondent. Comparative Insect Rating: 4/10.

Giant Water Bug.

Giant Water Bug

This water bug was indeed giant, quite possibly the biggest bug I’d seen in my life. I was advised not to eat the whole lot (it was big enough to make a cutlet) and instead took off the wings, tore open the body and ate the gooey insides. Wonderful.

Opening the torso, I used my teeth to draw out what was inside, doing my best not to think about what I was about to ingest. The experience of eating the insides of a 10cm insect was as horrible as it sounds. Funnily enough, the squidgy body contents had a taste that was not entirely foul.

Feeling: Surprised. Comparative Insect Rating: 5/10.

Playing with my food.

Scorpion

I left this one until last, in the hopes that somehow it would revive itself and walk off the table. That way I wouldn’t have to eat it, and the pub staff could deal with a live scorpion while I watched what happened.

I wished I’d done a little research on how on earth to eat these one of these things. I pulled off the sting and decided to eat the body. It is truly horrid. The outer skin was tough and there didn’t seem to be anything inside.

Chewing it gave no immediate reward, then a horrid noxious taste filled my mouth and thoughts began to fill my head. Was I eating the part of the body that has venom inside? Would my travel insurance cover intentional ingestion of venom? I cursed myself for not reading past the second paragraph of my insurance fine print, then spit it out and threw the rest of the scorpion away. My tongue was black and this time beer wouldn’t remove the taste.

Feeling: Relieved, but ready to spew. Comparative Insect Rating (and yes, I’m aware that a scorpion is an arachnid): 0/10.

Ajvar. Photo by mymiscpics

Ajvar

Ajvar is a mushy relish that is very popular in The Balkans. It is principally comprised of red bell peppers, eggplant (aubergine), garlic and chili pepper. The main ingredients are both baked and stewed, which makes creating Ajvar quite a laborious and time-consuming process.

Currywurst. Photo by author.

Currywurst Sauce

This is the most important ingredient in one of the most popular and delicious fast foods in Germany – currywurst. While you can buy it bottled at most stores in Germany, it’s pretty simple to make this famous wurst topping, which consists of ketchup dosed with curry powder and paprika.

Salsa Lizano. Photo by believekevin

Salsa Lizano

A staple of all Costa Rican kitchens, Lizano is a slightly sweet condiment that packs a spicy punch, given the inclusion of turmeric, pepper and mustard. It would also appear to be quite addictive – threads of foodie message boards are filled with desperate cooks looking for a place to find a bottle in their country.

Chutney. Photo by bassclarinetist

Chutney

Types of chutney are as varied as are the regions in India that they originate from. Among the more popular are mango, tamarind and peanunt/red chili. Other concoctions can include ingredients like beetroot, shrimp, curry leaf and eggplant.

Pebre. Photo by ryangreenberg

Pebre

Still a bit of a traveler’s secret, eyes go glassy when this Chilean condiment is discussed. The recipe says it all – coriander, chopped onion, olive oil, garlic and ground or pureed spicy aji peppers. It’s most usually piled on top of barbequed meat and often served with bread.

Fish sauce (yes, you read the brand correctly). Photo by thatgirl

Fish Sauce

The gaggiest of all condiments, fish sauce is a staple in many Southeast Asian dishes, such as Cambodia’s delicious Amok. Disgusting a smell as it may be, it somehow becomes a magic ingredient when used in the right combinations.

When I have a bad day at work, I just imagine what it would be like to work in a place that makes this stuff, which is largely comprised of fermented anchovies or sardines.

Tzatziki. Photo by cathepsut

Tzatziki

Most often used on gyros, Tzatziki is a condiment (arguably a dip) that combines puréed cucumber and strained yoghurt with garlic, salt, olive oil & pepper. The whole thing looks a bit like what oozes out of a zombie’s brain after it has been cracked with an axe.

Shiracha. Photo by bump

Sriracha Sauce

Nobody seems to know what the original purpose of Sriracha sauce was but it’s now turned into as catch-all as catsup. Often used as a condiment with seafood, it’s also been used as a topping for everything from sushi to pizza. Chili peppers give it the whallop that it’s known for. Also known as Rooster Sauce, which comes from the logo on the bottle.

Photo by stephenliveshere

Vegemite

The inclusion of this condiment is simply to placate the Australians (and hangers on) who worship this paste made from yeast extract. Brits will also go on about their similarly-created marmite. With over 20 million bottles made just by Kraft each year, there’s no escaping its popularity. Some even say that it’s a great hangover cure.

Chimichurri. Photo by scaredykat

Chimichurri

Chimichurri is a popular sauce from Argentina and Uruguay, often used as a marinade for meat. Most people make the Homer Simpson Drooling Sound when it’s mentioned. Key ingredients include chopped parsley, minced garlic, oil, vinegar and red pepper flakes.

Photo by davecobb

HP Sauce/Brown Sauce

While some Americans have a taste for steak sauce, most across the pond are consumed by it. What’s the magical combination that makes it so popular? How about malt vinegar blended with fruit and spices (HP) or meat stock mixed with flour (Brown Sauce)…

Harissa. Photo by geekstinkbreath

Harissa

Harissa is a hot chilli sauce made from crushed piri piri chillies, tomatoes and Paprika. This North African creation is even sometimes served alone as an appetizer, especially in Tunisia, where it is present at every meal.

Gochujang. Photo by robobbpy

Kochujang (Gochujang)

This is a must for the Korean kitchen. Gochujang looks a bit like high-end ketchup but tastes quite different because of its ingredients – chili peppers, glutinous rice powder, fermented soybeans and red peppers. It’s almost holy when combined with Bibimbap (a dish made of rice, vegetables and sliced meat). Not suggested as a condiment when eating live animals, though.

Photo by theedinburghblog

Hoisin Sauce

More of a dipping sauce than a condiment, this sweet, soy-based liquid does not contain fish despite the fact that it literally translates to English as “seafood”. It’s often served with spring rolls or pork.

Photo by julep67

Cholula Hot Sauce

Cholula is a brand from Mexico that makes one addictive Hot Sauce. Packaged with a trademark wooden cap, this condiment is made with pequin peppers, red peppers and various spices.

Photo by verity borthwick

Mayonnaise

I was going to exclude this but then thought of the outcry that would come from Europeans, who take mayo to new levels of obsession. Also, any opportunity to show a picture of one of travel’s guilty pleasures (french fries, chips, frites, whatever-the-F) is a good one.

This is probably as good a place as any to also list Salsa Golf, a South American goop that is a simple combination of mayo and ketchup, usually slopped on potatoes.

Tahini. Photo by singlecupofcoffe

Tahini

Tahini is a Middle Eastern topping often used in pitas. The key ingredient is sesame seed paste, which gives it a taste unlike any other. With nothing particularly spicy about it, it often even outs even the hottest stuffed pocket.

Sprinkles of Schichimi. Photo by hamachipop

Shichimi

This seven flavor chili pepper powder is a staple in Japan and is often added to soups and noodle dishes, although sushi chefs have recently taken to it as well. Its unique taste comes from the addition of other elements, often including mandarin peel, poppy seed, sesame and nori.

Photo by abielskas

Heinz Ketchup

It is not until you’ve had another country’s watery, tomato-tasting sludge that you begin to appreciate the fructose-infused ketchup that Heinz makes. Spend a month in Russia or Laos and you’ll be surprised just how much you miss it.

Community Connection

Bored with what you’re eating? Why not say goodbye to sushi and hello to ceviche? For more on worldly foods, be sure to check out our ultimate resource for food travel.

Photo and Feature Photo of a woman enjoying her first Jerusalem felafel: nicasaurusrex

Perhaps a little off-putting for vegetarians, this joke does have a point.

Anyone privileged to share a meal in a Palestinian home will not be allowed the leave the table until they’re stuffed. Despite the fragile Palestinian economy and the Israeli checkpoints which prevent most Palestinians from getting around, most West Bank cities present numerous opportunities to sample the culinary side of Palestinian culture.

Starting the day usually involves a pick-and-mix breakfast incorporating pita bread, hummus, labneh (thick yogurt widely used as a dip or spread), olives, olive oil with za’atar (dried thyme with sesame seeds and sumac) and sliced tomatoes and cucumbers. More luxurious versions might include fried eggs, grilled hallum cheese (like Cypriot halloumi) and fuul, a hot or cold dish of beans cooked with lemon juice, garlic and olive oil.

If you’re eating on the hoof, lunch will probably mean felafel or shawirma. You’ll find cafes or stands selling these in all cities, most towns and in street markets, especially those by checkpoints where people may have a long wait ahead of them.

Photo of fried eggplant in a Jerusalem restaurant
with felafel and hummus in the background. Photo: jbcurio

If your image of felafel is the dried-up, greasy brown ball often presented as a veggie option in Western restaurants, think again. Freshly-made felafel from Efteem on Manger Square in Bethlehem or the cafes in and around Hebron’s souq are plump, fragrant chickpea rounds, the inside green with fresh parsley, the outside fried golden crisp, served with garnishes – fried eggplant, hot sauce, yogurt, pickles and fresh salads.

Travellers can be confident about eating salads here: standards of food hygiene are good, and in ten years of working and travelling in the West Bank I’ve never managed to get a stomach upset.

Photo of a felafel stand at Huwarra checkpoint: Author

Less vegetarian-friendly fast food includes shawirma – slivers of meat cooked on a vertical spit and sliced off to order. In the West Bank, you may be lucky enough to find this served in markouk, vast tasty rounds of very thin bread cooked over a big metal dome.

Busy cities like East Jerusalem and Ramallah also have street vendors selling skewers of lamb kebab hot off the grill. Both are also home to an excess of chicken-and-chip joints, only worth visiting if you’re a homesick KFC fan.

In Ramallah, which has a cosmopolitan feel stemming from nearby Bir Zeit University and the numerous NGO, press and diplomatic staff, there are also cafes offering less traditional options. Perhaps most worth visiting is Stars & Bucks, sitting several storeys above Manara Square and with some great views of the city. It’s a good place to explore dishes like manakeesh, a flat bread topped with various combinations of cheese, vegetables and za’atar. Like many Palestinian cafes it also does a great range of non-alcoholic drinks – milkshakes, smoothies, frappes and fancy teas and coffees.

For those with a sweet-tooth, Palestinian food is heaven. Whether you’re visiting a family or attending an NGO briefing, sweet tea with fresh mint or thick, sweet black Turkish coffee will almost certainly be served.

If you’re lucky, you’ll also get baklava or other traditional pastries and biscuits. You can buy great sweet and savoury pastries at bakeries in Nablus, Ramallah and on Salah Eddin Street in East Jerusalem.

If you’re very lucky – or if you’re in the souqs of Nablus or Jerusalem – you’ll encounter Kanafeh.

Photo of kanefah being sold (it’s in the big, round pan):
Tracy Hunter

Especially associated with Nablus, this sweet, hot, stretchy cheese baked under crispy vermicelli and doused in hot sugar syrup is filling, tooth-destroying and delicious. The best place for it is the al-Aqsa Cafe in Nablus, where it’s made in metre-wide trays which empty almost before they hit the serving counter.

During evening meals in traditional Palestinian restaurants, or lavish meals for guests in family homes, the country’s cuisine really shines. Such meals generally start with a selection of starters similar to those at breakfast, as well as mouttabal and baba ganoush (dips made with roasted eggplant), imam bayildi (eggplant stewed with tomatoes), kibbeh (balls of cracked wheat stuffed with meat) and a vast array of other dishes.

Photo of a Ramallah market stand: Author

Just as you think you’ve eaten a creditable quantity and can relax before a small coffee, the main course arrives. This might be grilled meats (often lamb, or shish tawouk – tender cubes of marinated chicken). But if possible, go for traditional dishes you might not find elsewhere, such as mussakhan (chicken, onions and sumac baked on flat bread), maklouba (rice with lamb, nuts and vegetables), bamiah (okra, often stewed slowly with lamb) or qidreh (spiced rice with lamb).

Vegetarians, look out for mujuddarah – a rice, lentil and caramelised onion dish which is much more exciting than it sounds.

Unsurprisingly, dessert is rare; most people head straight for coffee and, perhaps, a nargila (a tall water and tobacco pipe).

The best restaurants to experience this kind of meal include the Citadel in Beit Sahour, the al-Saraya or the Yasmeen Hotel in Nablus, or the Philadelphia on Azzahra Street in East Jerusalem (an institution which dates back to the era of Jordanian control and has photos of 1950s celebrity diners on the wall).

For a contemporary take on Palestinian cooking, the Askadinya in East Jerusalem’s Sheikh Jarrah neighbourhood does innovative things with traditional ingredients. The delicious results mean that booking is often essential.

And, lest you thought that Palestinians always want local cuisine when they go out, there are other cultural options. Bethlehem boasts a reasonable Mexican (the Mariachi at the Grand Hotel), although the burritos, made with markouk bread, take a little getting used to. Ramallah has decent pizzas at Pronto or La Strada, and an interesting Chinese restaurant.

The majority religion in Palestine is Islam, which accounts for the wonderful range of fresh juices, mint lemonade and other non-alcoholic drinks you’ll find.

Photo of a man enjoying a Taybeh: Author

But the significant Christian minority means that in Bethlehem, Ramallah and East Jerusalem you can find alcohol. The best beer is Taybeh, a mellow, rich golden lager named after the small village outside Ramallah where it’s brewed to German purity laws.

The monks of Cremisan in Bethlehem have been making wine for centuries – it’s found in numerous restaurants and shops in Bethlehem and Jerusalem. Some hotels and restaurants in these three cities also sell imported spirits and, for the brave, jet-fuel local arak.

Community Connection

Traveling to the Middle East? Our Middle East Focus Page has all Matador articles about the area centralized for your perusing pleasure.

Thinking about celebrating Oktoberfest in Palestine? Carlo Alcos tells you all about it on MatadorTrips.

Here’s one way, while in Turkey, to delay gratification:

Community Connection

Looking for more treats? Pop over to MatadorAbroad to be even more tempted to head to New Orleans for Mardi Gras with Indulgence in New Orleans: A Guide to 7 Classic Desserts.

Posto Pizza/Bakano

For the first time, my adventure started at night (it is Buenos Aires, after all). Pizza seemed fitting given that I’d pissed quite a few Argentines off with my previous take on how many people in the world screw up a food that is God’s gift. I ordered take-out from two recommended joints and scrammed home to examine what was inside of the two boxes.

Posto Pizza’s Hongos Blanco pie (three kinds of mushrooms) was frigging delicious. It had a bit of a tart taste given the involvement of Portobello shrooms but it worked. I ate three slices before moving on, only abandoning it out of my duty to chomp its mozza-brother sitting nearby.

The second pizza, a Napolitana con Rucala, came from Bakano’s location in Barrio Norte. Their (very attractive) staff seemed wildly confused that I ordered it while holding a box from another restaurant. More of a thin crust boutique-y affair, it was delicious. I housed it in minutes. Just the right amount of crust, cheese and greenery. Pretty too look at, pretty to eat.

Impression: Standing corrected. There is some good pizza in Buenos Aires. Mood: Dreaming about tomorrow.

Posto Pizza, Billinghurst 1608, Palermo.
Bakano, Aguero 1669, Recoletta.

Comedor Nikkai

I met up with Nights co-editor Kate Sedgwick at Nikkai, a Japanese restaurant housed in the same building as the Asociacion Japonesa. Note: don’t push the door until you almost break it. It’s a slider, not a puller.

Kate made poor decisions and ordered something curry-like. I knew that there would only be one thing I’d be ordering – the chirasi (a damn good bargain at 57 pesos, given the amount of fish).

When it came I knew that I’d made the right decision. Loads of fresh fish done up all pretty (one even looked like a rose), heaped over sushi rice, chopped mushrooms and plenty of other japanese vegetables. My only lament was as it always in Buenos Aires; an extreme lack of tuna. It’s just not done here. This did not detract at all from the fact that I was left lapping sushi rice from a little green bowl, like some starved, homeless dog.

Comedor Nikkai, Ave. Independencia 732, San Telmo.

Impression: Still my favorite Japanese in Buenos Aires and one of my favorites in the world, if for no other reason that it feels like some back alley restaurant that Gremlins would live in. Mood: Fishy burps.

El Gauchito

I left Kate looking at her bus time table book, as she does most hours of the day. I hiked it a few blocks down to grab a couple of empanadas from an old favorite, El Gauchito. It’s really just a counter inside of a door, with hundreds of different empanadas staring you in the face.

I ordered one pollo and another one that looked hammy. The two ladies behind the counter pretended to leave the room as I scarfed them at the tiny counter but I know they both watched and judged secretly. I ordered two more to go, hoping that they’d keep for a day in the fridge. I don’t get to San Telmo often but when I do, this is ritual.

El Guachito, Ave. Independencia 414, San Telmo.

Impression: Good, cheap empanadas. Mood: Lethargic and wondering how much more of this I can do.

El Cisno Blanco

I tripped to Barrio Chino (Chinatown) after reading Hal Amen’s quiet rave in Matador’s piece about our favorite Buenos Aires spots. The area is about six square blocks and much more manageable than those C-towns of New York and San Francisco. It was still just as lively, with hoards of locals and tourist clammoring down the streets filled with restaurants, supply stores and trinket shops.

I ignored my never-ending urge for Thai food and found a table outside of El Cisno Blanco, a cute restaurant about a block out of the main fray. It was late afternoon and I was the only customer, doted on by a lovely woman who helped me through the menu. I figured that this was also a great opportunity to order a big, honking cerveza.

Six small wontons went down great with the beer – all homemade. The piled-high Pollo Saltado c/Anana (Pineapple Chicken) came next and was the best Chinese food I’d eaten all year. Every element was fresh and the dish felt labored over, much more so than a normal rush-job meal you’d get a similar place back home. The whole thing ran about 50 pesos.

El Cisno Blanco, Arribeños 2328), Barrio Chino (Belgrano).

Impression: A dreamy curb-side meal with great atmosphere and staff. Mood: Buzzed and happy.

Del Carmen Panaderia Confiteria

I had been doing a slutty dance with this mini-cheesecake all week. Its six creamy inches had been cooing to me from the window of the bakery below my apartment, vying for my attention with an equally tarty ricotta pie. Let’s just say I paid for it, took it upstairs and gave it what it asked for.

Del Carmen Panaderie, Guemes 2991, Barrio Norte.

Impression: Loads of homemade cakes and pies to choose from. Great little bakery. Mood: Distended. Taking a break and waiting for the main event in a few hours.

Casa SaltShaker

It’s not worthy of SaltShaker to be thrown at the end of a day like this but I’ve wanted to take a seat at this oft-mentioned closed-door restaurant for a year. Like many, I’d used Dan’s blog as the basis for most of my eating decisions while in Buenos Aires and he’s never steered me wrong. I wanted to see what he’d cook up.

Dan and host Henry greet each of the guests (10 maximum) with smiles and usher in conversation, bringing together strangers in a way that feels neither heavy-handed nor understated. Within minutes we were given a strawberry infused vodka cocktail that went down quick and easy. Fruity yet not sweet, a perfect summer starter.

Each meal here is based on a historical (“or hysterical”) cue. Today’s menu was inspired by the re-unification of The Ukraine, something that nobody present seemed to know much about. It did allow for a jumping-off point when working out the the recipes on the menu, all of which had some basis in the food of that region.

We sat down at the dining room table (kind of like being at your stylish and well-read rich aunt’s house) and spent two hours eating and drinking. Wine pairings rolled along with each dish presented, all of it explained by Dan, who spent equal time socializing and cooking.

The food that followed was wowzers. Vegetarian caviar (on homemade rye toast) was followed by a chilled, surgery-red beet soup. Pasta dumplings filled with boingy cheese came next, spiced up with a fiery soy and chili sauce (pictured). Duck Kiev finished the theme out, complete with a homemade sour cream dip. Dessert was orgasm city, pretty much designed for what gets me off: A tart made with raspberry and almond. Gahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh.

Not a minute of the evening felt highfalutin, even if it was designed as such an occasion. Henry and I both cracked up when I picked the wrong spoon for my soup – this is not a place of judgement.

Casa SaltShaker is more than a restaurant. It’s an elevating culinary and social event, one that made me feel bouncy and smiley as I walked out the door. I don’t think I’ll ever see or taste anything quite like the place again.

Casa SaltShaker, Location disclosed upon booking, Barrio Norte.

Impression: A happy place. Mood: Bliss with a distended gut.

Community Connection

Matador has Buenos Aires Covered. Be sure to check BsAs articles on everything from urban volunteering to surviving as a vegetarian to one of the world’s best Monday night parties.

On the bleary-eyed hunt for the perfect breakfast. Photo: sheepies

Whether you’ve spent the previous night stumbling down Rose Street, swanning around George Street or staggering down to the Grassmarket, chances are that come Sunday morning there will be one thought on your mind – food. And lots of it.

Luckily, Edinburgh will deliver cozy pubs, good, strong coffee, log fires and roast lunches that make you feel like you’re back at home again, being looked after by Mum. Here’s some of the best.

Snax, 118 Buccleuch Street, Newington

Photo: jessiclese

Strong, strong coffee is the first thing that hits you as you walk into this little cafe just off the Meadows. The second is the hand-written menu on a chalk board above the counter which gives you the following options; the big breakfast, bigger breakfast or, for those feeling brave and strong stomached, the biggest breakfast. All are served with a huge mug of something sugary and caffeinated.

The chatty, friendly staff are content to pass the morning laughing at each other’s self inflicted hungover pain and a good listener will hear quite a few stories from the night before. Big wooden tables and chairs and free papers make you feel like you’re having breakfast in your own kitchen.

Look out for: Those still wearing their tuxedos.

The Sheep Heid Inn, 43-45 The Causeway, Duddingston

The Sheep Heid is in the pretty little village of Duddingston, just behind Arthurs Seat. They pride themselves on the fact that they have fed and watered people here for 600 years and continue doing so today.

Inside The Heid. Photo: rieh

The home-made burger, locally sourced sausage and mash, and traditional haggis with neeps and tatties are good choices, all served in generous portions. The Traditional Sunday Roast starts with an enormous Yorkshire pudding with everything else piled on top until the plate is almost overflowing. Not surprisingly, the roast is always in high demand and runs out quickly, so book ahead if possible.

Look out for: The old fashioned skittles alley in the back room is a great way to waste away an afternoon.

The Links, 4 Alvanley Terrace, Bruntsfield

The Links will sort out a male hangover, with huge, cheap burgers served under equally large wide screen TV’s showing the weekend’s rugby and football matches. Sink into a sofa or huddle around one of the wooden tables and work out what happened the night before. There’s also a 9 hole pitch and putt course just outside on the Links.

Look out for: Girls. They’re pretty hard to spot here on a Sunday in this testosterone filled environment.

56 North, 2-8 West Crosscauseway, Newington

Whilst the Links is helping out the boys, 56 North deals with the girls. The modern, stylish interior has comfy booths, sofas covered in big cushions and low seats to curl up on whilst the food is reasonably priced and a bit more healthy than the usual hangover stodge.

Teriyaki burger at The Cambridge Bar. Photo: theedinburghblog

The flatbreads are covered in salad, then topped with a variety of meats, cheeses and dressings. The bacon and cheese topped wedges served with sweet chilli sauce and sour cream make an indulgent Sunday lunch side dish to anything you are having.

Look out for: Moustaches in November. The staff support the Movember campaign that raises awareness for men’s health and there are some quite impressive displays of facial hair by the end of the month.

The Cambridge Bar, 20 Young Street, New Town

Although there is lots of competition, this is arguably Edinburgh’s best independent gourmet burger pub. They use only homemade and locally sourced ingredients for their burgers, toppings and relishes. There’s a wide and varied range of additional extras, including pineapple and guacamole to help you create your fantasy gourmet burger. The most expensive is £8.50 so it won’t break the bank either.

The Roast. To some, barfy. To others, the perfect cure. Photo: robs-pics

Look out for: Bankers in suits. You’re in the New Town now, daaarling.

Caffe Lucano, 37 George IV Bridge, Old Town

Skip dessert and come here for half price cakes after 3pm and proper Italian coffee. This traditional little cafe is simply decorated with a counter filled with everything a sweet tooth desires and the high bar seating along the window is a great spot for people watching.

Look out for: Harry Potter’s birthplace. J K Rowling started writing in The Elephant House; another cafe just across the road which is now usually filled with other budding writers scribbling away. ]]> http://matadornights.com/the-best-spots-in-edinburgh-to-nurse-a-hangover/feed/ 1 http://matadornights.com/what-to-order-at-a-chinese-bakery/ http://matadornights.com/what-to-order-at-a-chinese-bakery/#comments Wed, 23 Dec 2009 14:07:00 +0000 Valerie Ng http://matadornights.com/?p=5451 Valerie Ng loves macaroons, almond croissants, and raspberry tarts from a French pastry shop, but when she’s looking for treats that are light and not too sweet, she heads for the Chinese bakeries.

Daan Taat

Daan Taat, aka Egg Custard Tarts

For me, one of the sweetest things in life is biting into a daan taat fresh from the oven, feeling the warm egg custard melt as its delicate, flaky crust crumbles in my mouth. While it’s traditionally yellow, some New York bakeries will offer tarts made exclusively with egg whites and in some cases, with papaya or green tea flavorings.

Most bakeries also carry Portuguese-style egg tarts, similar to pasteis de nata, which have the look and consistency of crème brûlée.

Sesame Balls

Sesame Balls

One of my guilty pleasures are sesame balls: deep fried, sesame-specked glutinous rice balls filled with red bean or lotus paste. Crispy, greasy, and gooey, they’re a popular Chinese New Year treat, though they’re available in bakeries year-round.

Cha Siu Bao

Cha Siu Bao, aka Roast Pork Buns

Those looking for a more savory option will enjoy cha siu bao, or roast pork buns. These come either steamed or baked. The steamed variety are white, very light and cake-like; the baked ones are browned and topped with a sticky glaze.

Either way, the buns are filled with a helping of diced roast pork belly, better known as cha siu, in a sweet sauce. Occasionally, you may come across versions of this bun with a chicken filling.

PIneapple Buns

Pineapple Buns

These buns contain no pineapple. They get their name from the checkered yellow crust designed to make them resemble the outside of the tropical fruit. Even if the yellow crust looks nice, it’s not good for you – pineapple buns are considered one of the most unhealthy snack foods in Hong Kong.

I enjoy them plain, without filling, but some versions are filled with a bean paste, a custard, or even barbecued meat.

Paper Wrapped Cake

Paper Wrapped Cake

Sometimes called cupcakes, these are very light sponge cakes baked in paper wrappers. They’re perfect if you only want a little snack, especially if you’re stuffed from dim sum or chow fun.

Cocktail Buns

Cocktail Buns

These pastries usually come in pairs. They were created as a way of using up leftover buns by mashing them with sugar and shredded coconut and stuffing them inside freshly-made buns.

Moon Cakes

Moon Cakes

Moon cakes, traditionally eaten during the Autumn Moon Festival in September, are an acquired taste. These dense lotus paste and egg yolk-filled cakes are very rich, so it’s best to slice them up and share them with others.

Specialty versions of this pastry are filled with flavored pastes such as pineapple or green tea.

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